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Front brake pads replaced + advice needed
#1
Hi guys,

MOT happened a couple of days ago. The bike passed but I had a warning about the front brake pads being very low. I replaced them today mostly without a hitch (pics of old ones attached). Because of the extra friction material on the new pads (SBS sintered), it looked like there was now too much brake fluid in the system as the brake lever barely moved before stiffening up. So, I syphoned off some fluid from the master cylinder (homemade syphon pic attached) but the lever is still stiffening too soon. The front wheel turns easily but not freely so the pads must be touching at rest. The master cylinder fluid level is just above the low mark now and the lever indicator is on '1'.

What am I missing here? This is the first time I've done the brake pads so it's quite likely I'm being a doughnut.

Finally, as you can see in the picture, one of the old pads has worn unevenly. I'm presuming this is because the callipers need cleaning. How easy is this? Can anyone point me to an idiot's guide?

David.


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#2
Hi david........the pads will rub, its the rotation/vibration of the wheel when riding that eases them away from the disc...
my guess is that youve got used to the old pads not noticing how bad they had got as is a gradual process.....get out on your fazer and try it for a few miles, take it easy at first untill the pads have bedded in....

Like your home made syphon  :thumbup
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#3
Looks to me like you've gone from having no brake pads, to actually having some shiny new ones that actually work.  :lol

They will rub on the disc for a little while until they're bedded in, so that's normal behaviour.
As for the level of brake fluid, now is the time to make it right while the pads are new and the pistons are in at their furthest.

Don't forget you can adjust the little wheel on the lever for personal comfort when braking as well.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#4
Thanks guys. I'll take it out for a gentle ride and see how it feels. Maybe I'll take a backpack with a few tools and DOT4 fluid with me just in case.

Regarding the little wheel adjuster on the brake lever: I presume '1' is the most relaxed setting?
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#5
(24-08-16, 12:16 PM)wickedmonkey link Wrote: Thanks guys. I'll take it out for a gentle ride and see how it feels. Maybe I'll take a backpack with a few tools and DOT4 fluid with me just in case.

Regarding the little wheel adjuster on the brake lever: I presume '1' is the most relaxed setting?
Yes you are just seeing the old/new difference. Top up now.
The wheel is only for moving the position of the leaver so if you have short stubby little fingers and an not reach it you can put it on number 1 - or is it 4 cant remember which or how many it gos to.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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#6
Did you clean and inspect the pistons?

If you're fitting new pads, as they are thicker the pistons will now be pushed into the caliper a bit more than before, so your seals will be running on part of the piston that was previously exposed to the elements.
If it's scratch, corroded or dirty it will not move as smoothly on the seals. Typically, driving the piston back out a bit and going at them with an old tooth brush and brake cleaner will sort it out followed by a smear of red rubber grease.

....Else just run it as it is and the exercise and thermal cycling may free it up. :-)

Just be aware the danger is, if it binds and drags too much, two things: Heat will build in the disc and it'll probably warp it, as well as wear. OR heat builds up in the caliper, the brake fluid turns to steam and pushing the pad even more against the disc and when you do pull the lever it'll come all the way back to the bars with no effect.

Just make sure the discs arent getting stupidly hot during normal riding.
-suck-squeeze-bang-blow-
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#7
5 is as you say te most relaxed.. If it is set to 1 it is probably to severe for you, now that you have brakes again  :b
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#8
Been out for a short ride and the front brake now feels amazing!

No, I didn't clean the calliper - just knocked off some dirt. Cleaning the calliper and lubing the cylinders makes sense. Is it easy to do? Do you happen to have a link to an idiot's guide handy?
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#9
Silly question: how do I change the setting? It doesn't seem to turn for me.
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#10
This is a good video (although what he calls salt build up is actually aluminium oxide formed when aluminium 'rusts')
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FNz00OTRLzM

Keep a spanner across the caliper when actuating the levers to avoid pumping the pistons out too far. Everytime I manage to pop one of the pistons out. It p***es brake fluid everywhere, can be tricky to get back in and will need you to rebleed them.

...oh yeah.. and now you have your reservoir with less fluid in, just be careful when you pump the pistons back out, the reservoir doesn't run dry and you pump air into the lines!
-suck-squeeze-bang-blow-
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#11
(24-08-16, 01:39 PM)unfazed link Wrote: 5 is as you say te most relaxed.. If it is set to 1 it is probably to severe for you, now that you have brakes again  :b

Hold on a minute, you've got FIVE?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#12
(24-08-16, 01:42 PM)wickedmonkey link Wrote: Silly question: how do I change the setting? It doesn't seem to turn for me.




push the lever away from the bars a tad...takes the pressure off and you can turn it easy  Wink


cheers fazersharp    :rolleyes
One, is never going to be enough.....
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#13
(24-08-16, 02:34 PM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=unfazed link=topic=20878.msg240117#msg240117 date=1472042386]
5 is as you say te most relaxed.. If it is set to 1 it is probably to severe for you, now that you have brakes again  :b

Hold on a minute, you've got FIVE?
[/quote]
Thats right it only gos to 4 - mine is set at 3.
It has no baring in the brake performance - only the reach.
And pulling it in will make it harder to turn the dial, you need to push it away from you, you will then see that there is a post that gos into it and the dial I think has different length holes to take the post so you have to push the leaver away from you to be able to turn the dial. (I think thats how it works unless the dial is on a cam)   
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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#14
Great video, bretty. I'll clean them as soon as.
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#15
Boxeye have 4 positions Foxeyes have 5 and are interchangeable.

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#16
Ooh I love a good brake forum! This is a good guide by Ren Withnell on cleaning brake pistons-


http://www.bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=156


I've went down the short stubby Chinese levers route as my meat hooks are on the small side
Treat everything in life the way a dog would- if you can't eat it or foc it, forget it.
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#17
(24-08-16, 06:50 PM)unfazed link Wrote: Boxeye have 4 positions Foxeyes have 5 and are interchangeable.


Really?
The fifth setting must be for even stubbier fingers then, 'cos you can't go any further away with the lever?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#18
(24-08-16, 06:50 PM)unfazed link Wrote: Boxeye have 4 positions Foxeyes have 5 and are interchangeable.


Hey ya learn somethin every day.. Had a couple of each n never noticed  :rolleyes
Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it...
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#19
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I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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#20
Ha! Nice pic

I still can't turn the setting from 1. Won't budge at all.
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