TPS adjustment

[Davew]

I'm about to balance he carbs on my new 2001 fzs 600 and have read that people have adjusted the TPS before OR after doing it.  The Torx bolts on my TPS have a centre piece of metal on them meaning they can't be adjusted with a standard torx bit, and I'm guessing that's for a very good reason?!


Do I need to set the TPS or should I leave it the hell alone?


when I remove it and plug it back in, I get a reading of 3k on the rev counter, should that be 5k meaning it does need adjusting?


thanks in advance for any help!

[bandit]

Here you go, http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,91.0.html.
As said the TPS screws are security type with the bit in the middle so you reqiure torx bits or allen key type with a hole in the centre. 
TPS must be checked before carb adjustment.

[Davew]

cool.


thanks, just wanted to check they were supposed to be touched!  Will have to get some torx bits with the hole.

[darrsi]

Check it before, when bike is warmed up, AND check it after as well.

[Davew]

and it should read 5000rpm? 


Reading the guide, it seems to suggest it should only read 0,5k, or 10k?  mine seems to read 3k?!


Do I just adjust until it goes up to 5k?

[darrsi]

and it should read 5000rpm? 


Reading the guide, it seems to suggest it should only read 0,5k, or 10k?  mine seems to read 3k?!


Do I just adjust until it goes up to 5k?

3k is either unplugged or knackered. (don't forget to plug it back in)

[darrsi]

Just copied this from another post i wrote before:


Turn ignition key on (no need to start the engine)

Unplug the TPS, which is the black thing on the right side of your carbs. I normally use a key to help with the catch.
The rev counter will then display a code to say that it's either unplugged or not working. It will go from 0rpm to 3000rpm (3000rpm is a faulty code)

Then simply plug it back in and see what code it gives next.

5000rpm is good, and where you want it to be.

0rpm or 10,000rpm means it needs adjusting, which involves undoing the 2 screws with a T25 tamper proof torx driver, and literally twisting the TPS sideways until you see the needle land in the 5000rpm position.

4000rpm means a dodgy speed sensor, but i doubt very much this will apply to you.

And if it goes to 3000rpm then your TPS is likely to be knackered. As i said earlier my bike definitely misbehaved before i changed my TPS so it's worth a quick check.
Also the erratic tickover and fluctuating RPM needle could be symptoms of a dodgy TPS.

If you need to adjust the TPS then the bike must be at operating temperature, and the tickover speed should be around the 1200-1300rpm mark.

And don't forget, if it hits 10,000rpm switch the engine on quickly then off until you are ready to adjust it to put the needle back towards the left side, otherwise it's front fairing shield off, then remove clocks and take it all apart to move the needle back.

If you switch off the ignition with the needle at 10,000rpm the needle will simply drop down clockwise, which is not good.

It's not difficult or anything, it's just time consuming and avoidable.

WORTH A QUICK READ:  [color=rgb(74, 74, 74)]http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Throttle_Position_Sensor[/color]

[Davew]

got it.  I was unplugging with engine running.  it works now and gives a reading of 10k, so needs adjusting.  will get on it tomorrow, thanks guys, much appreciated.

[darrsi]

got it.  I was unplugging with engine running.  it works now and gives a reading of 10k, so needs adjusting.  will get on it tomorrow, thanks guys, much appreciated.

Just make sure the bike is warm and take note of the 10k tip i wrote at the bottom.
It's caught me out twice before.  :lol

[Freza]

Sheeeat, I never checked my TPS.
Gonna do that tomorrow. I have erratic idle and clutch rattle.
Probably carbs need some tuning too.

[Davew]

hmmm.  the needle goes to 10k, but I cant get it to move from there no matter how I adjust the TPS?  any ideas?  does that mean it's knackered?

[Davew]

bollocks.  just realised it does go to 3k when i unplug it, so it's knackered. 

[darrsi]

When you unplug it, it will go back and forth from 0k to 3k, which will mean it's unplugged.

It's when you plug it back in that counts, if it's still at 3k then it is likely to be knackered.

Also if you had it at 10k but it won't adjust, that can also be a bad sign.
That's what my last one did, it broke down gradually rather than just pegged out, and was a bit random with the readings.

[Davew]

got a second hand one from bike hut for £35.  A new one was £200!!!!!!! :eek

[darrsi]

got a second hand one from bike hut for £35.  A new one was £200!!!!!!! :eek

Yeah, that's about the going rate.

Unfortunately because they're at least 11 years old, 2nd hand, there's no telling how long it will last either, as i found out, but hopefully you'll have a good one. 

[unfazed]

hmmm.  the needle goes to 10k, but I cant get it to move from there no matter how I adjust the TPS?  any ideas?  does that mean it's knackered?

Yes it has gone high resistance. They are the same as some suzuki ones which are £80 brand new.
When mine went the same route of high resistance I did a bit of research and since it is made by Mikuni is was bound to be common across many models.
It is the same as:
1997 to 2001Yamaha R1 Carb model , 2001 FJR
2003 Kawasaki ZX6R  and 2004 2005 Kawasaki ZX10R
1996 - 2000 Suzuki GSXR 600 750 SRAD, 2003 - 2004 SV650, 2005 2006 SV1000,  2008 GS500
Suzuki Part number is:13550-13D60

[Davew]

will see how I go, and maybe source one of the cheaper versions when I have some spare cash.

[clayt74]

And don't forget, if it hits 10,000rpm switch the engine on quickly then off until you are ready to adjust it to put the needle back towards the left side, otherwise it's front fairing shield off, then remove clocks and take it all apart to move the needle back.

If you switch off the ignition with the needle at 10,000rpm the needle will simply drop down clockwise, which is not good.

Sorry to be a pain, but just to clarify the above; do you mean that if the needle hits 10k with the ignition turned on (engine not running) then before turning the ignition off actually start the engine running before turning off and adjusting?

Thinking of check in mine but really don't wanna strip the clocks.
Cheers

[unfazed]

Before you check the TPs ensure you have the proper security Torx tool to loosen the bolts.

Now check it, if it hits 10k or 0 adjust it until it hits 5k.

Switch off the iginition

If however you cannot adjust it from 10k down to 5k and have loosened the bolts, tighten the bolts (don't overtighten) and start the engine.

Only switch off the ignition if it is at 0 or 5k.

[darrsi]

[quote author=darrsi link=topic=13864.msg156715#msg156715 date=1404247881]

And don't forget, if it hits 10,000rpm switch the engine on quickly then off until you are ready to adjust it to put the needle back towards the left side, otherwise it's front fairing shield off, then remove clocks and take it all apart to move the needle back.

If you switch off the ignition with the needle at 10,000rpm the needle will simply drop down clockwise, which is not good.

Sorry to be a pain, but just to clarify the above; do you mean that if the needle hits 10k with the ignition turned on (engine not running) then before turning the ignition off actually start the engine running before turning off and adjusting?

Thinking of check in mine but really don't wanna strip the clocks.
Cheers
[/quote]


Basically when you turn the ignition off the rev counter needle will just drop with gravity, so whichever way it is leaning it will fall.
If it falls to the right you're on the wrong side of the 0rpm pin, so when you start up it just bounces up and down on it, but goes nowhere.


When you start the engine the needle goes to the tickover position (around 1200rpm) so then it's safe to switch off.


It's not a major, just an unnecessary nuisance. Front fairing shield off, clocks off and apart, then push the needle back round by hand then put all back together again.