I have a haynes manual but pretty sure first step says "remove engine"
What do i need to remove?
I'm thinking Carbs, Exhaust headers, Radiator. Anything else? Any tips from anyone who has done it before? Also don't want to turn engine over to get to TDC before i strip as there is a stray screw in there somewhere. Will that cause problems later trying to line up timing marks?
Cheers
Craig
Carbs, headers, radiator can stay in place.
Timing should be OK - just time it up when tdc, but count teeth between cam sprockets before removal so you can put chain back on right.
You can rotate the engine with the cams out. Just make sure you keep the cam chain tight. When you're putting it back together make sure you're at the tdc mark on the rotor and the marks on the cam shafts line up. Rotate the engine a few times when it's all back together and check that all the marks line up again.
Once my little dowel arrives from Deefer (thanks again pal) I'll have some photos of timing and how it all lines up. When you lift the head be careful not to lift the block too, else you'll need to pull that and install a new gasket.
Thanks everyone, just giving the exhaust header bolts a good gt85/wd40 soaking at the moment. Hopefully have a crack at stripping it down tomorrow night. Hoping for minimal damage - Will keep you posted
I recently changed me down pipes and I spent a week, twice daily dosing the exhaust nuts with wd40.... 7 were a bugger to come out and the 8th rung! If you have a precise blowtorch available use it to heat the nuts first (hopefully without burning the house down), the nut shouldn't need too much heat to get red hot then they should be easy to get off. Now I've gotta pay an engineer to drill out and helicoil my broken stud.... Sake!
Another thing! When you're taking the headers off. Don't undo the nut in one go. They have ten years worth of crap built up on the threads so loosen them a bit, then tighten them bit, then loosen, then tighten. It'll help breaking up the muck on the threads. If you just undo them in one go the threads will get clogged up and you'll snap the stud!
(12-04-14, 12:54 AM)His Dudeness link Wrote: Another thing! When you're taking the headers off. Don't undo the nut in one go. They have ten years worth of crap built up on the threads so loosen them a bit, then tighten them bit, then loosen, then tighten. It'll help breaking up the muck on the threads. If you just undo them in one go the threads will get clogged up and you'll snap the stud!
And before retightening, add a squirt of WD40 to lubricate the thread!
If you have any spare, a friend of mine swears by neat diesel oil as a lubricant / release agent. It's nasty stuff, but it bloody works!!
The Deef's apprentice
Havoc, just do it yourself. I got a helicoil kit online for a tenner, drilling was pretty straight forward - just got to be patient.
Think your right Hightower, night give it a go!
My local shops wanted to charge me anywhere between £30 and £50 for a single stud to be drilled.
My self-drilled hole isn't square (ie like it comes out the factory) but the flange from my pipes fits over so there is room for it not to be perfect.
PlusGas is the business when it comes to shifting rusty nuts! Nasty stuff but it fizzes when it comes into contact with rust, give a squirt and leave it overnight but as His Dudeness said don't wind an old nut off in one go, think of taping a thread, 1/2 a turn loose, 1/4 tight and so on 
Finally about to start this but want to get some parts on order first.
I'm thinking
Definitely:
Head gasket
4 x exhaust o rings
Maybe:
Tappet cover gasket? Can I re-use original?
Possibly base gasket but hoping not to have to disturb that.
Anything else? Timing chain tenioner gasket? Will I need a new one?
Ok, when I did mine it was:
Head gasket
Base gasket (when I lifted head off I disturbed the base, but I wanted the block out anyway to make painting easier)
Instant gasket used for cam chain tensioner (get a tube, then you have some for future)
Your valve cover has a rubber gasket so just reuse yours if in good nick.
If you're replacing downpipes check to see if they come with gaskets (my Delkevic ones did). Also, someone on the forum suggested buying some dome cap nuts so they don't get gunked up in future - I did, cheap enough and if it saves this hassle again it'll be worth it.
Another option too, a small tin of Granville head paint (if your head was anything like mine). Costs about a fiver and well worth doing if you have the head off.
While you've got the head off, maybe give the valves a lap too? Kit costs about a tenner, and £24 for valve stem oil seals (although you may not want to take it this far) - I decided to do pretty much everything while I had it off, so I didn't need to take it off again.
Well the exhaust came off without incident . I have the rocker cover off but just a bit nervous about taking it all apart now. Does anyone have a pic of how the marks should line up? I cant get it to tdc as the engine won't turn over. What else do i need to mark?
![[Image: temporary_zps7f0afe85.jpg]](http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd479/craiginuk/temporary_zps7f0afe85.jpg)
Read the yamaha service manual!
You can't get to tdc how? Taking plugs out will make it easier
05-05-14, 10:17 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-05-14, 10:24 PM by Craiginuk.)
Hi hightower, theres a piece of screw jammed in between inlet valve and head. Didn't want to force it.
I have cams marked and out now. Next challenge is removing the bolts that hold the coolant hoses on to the head. Any tips? Both bolts are really tight! Allen key is bending and don't want to strip anything.
Just take the rubber hose off instead by removing the clips at the union. Don't actually remove the metal inlets.
As for timing, could you not just turn the crank once all apart (keeping cam chain tight) so it's tdc, and then line the cams with their factory markings. This would be safer I reckon, and easier. If not, make sure to mark crank as well then.
Thanks - ok will remove clips and leave the inlets where they are.
I've marked crank position as well as cam sprockets and chain position on them. So will try to put back as it is positioned now. Then once it's all moving freely will double check the factory marks line up.
Never had a 4cyl bike engine in this many pieces so sorry for the stupid questions many thanks for the help.
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