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Ignition/key problem
#1
Sat on the bike this morning was stumped why the key wouldn't turn. Sprayed some wd40 down it and got it turned to on and got to work. Leaving work this evening same problem, wouldn't turn from off to on position. A gentle wiggle or two in the right direction and a soft whisper of please please please and it popped into on for me. This is the first time it's been a problem.


Key is quite worn and the only one I got with the bike, should I look to try get a new key cut or would the barrel be the problem? Any tips on cleaning the barrel?


And worst case is replace it - I have a 02 fox eye, what options have I got for replacing it for a new one?


Thanks  Smile
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#2
I have always had to jiggle the key on mine..
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#3
If the key is badly worn I always thought that the barrel insides are also the same -- and sort of match each other so when you get a new key cut it has nice and sharp edges and so may not work. Or is that just stupid.

I always swap my keys around from time to time so that both keys and barrel wear the same, if I didnt then if i loose a very worn key then the unused spare wont work in the worn barrel --- do yo get me ??
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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#4
Mine does that abit, I think it's because the barrel is worn. I would get a new key as you probably want a spare anyway, and spray some lubricant down there more frequently, I think ACF50 does a good job.

I find my newer key works better than the original one that's worn.

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#5
As you're about to turn the key, pull the handlebars to the left (it'll only be a gnats) until it's on FULL lock, it will help.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#6
(16-01-14, 09:17 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: If the key is badly worn I always thought that the barrel insides are also the same -- and sort of match each other so when you get a new key cut it has nice and sharp edges and so may not work. Or is that just stupid.


No you're spot on. I had the same trouble with my van ignition (90,000 miles!) and had to get new keys and a new barrel.


Same thing happens with my Fazer. Takes about 20 attempts to turn on and it's only done 12,000 miles! Not a huge problem as it's my project bike and hoping to use the KTM ignition.
Feel the Fear and do it anyway!

Read about my Project Ruby Racer - FZS 600 Custom build Click this link > > > http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10613.0.html
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#7
I can believe that the barrel and key wear at the same time and that there must come a time when they must both be replaced, but I had this exact problem and a new key & acf50 frequently sprayed into the barrel improved it no end. My bike has done 45,000 miles. Not sure what the going rate is for a new ignition barrel & keys but it might be worth spending 5 or 6 quid on a new key before splashing out.
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#8
(17-01-14, 01:37 AM)Fuzzy link Wrote: but it might be worth spending 5 or 6 quid on a new key before splashing out.


Agreed. Always try the cheapest, easiest fix first.


Maybe it's a bit of a problem for these bikes? Especially as mine's only done 12,000 miles.
Feel the Fear and do it anyway!

Read about my Project Ruby Racer - FZS 600 Custom build Click this link > > > http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10613.0.html
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#9
Yes it does seem like it doesn't, have heard it mentioned before I'm sure.
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#10
I have trouble with mine too. Have stopped using steering lock and just relying on disc lock because it's such a pain sometime. I think I'll try my spare key and see if that turns any easier.
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#11
Have same problem on my boxeye.Been getting worse no matter how much i spray it. Haven't tried my spare key tho, ill give it a go. Have been looking on Ebay for new ignition barrel and key, around £45 mark.
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#12
Is that little protective tab still there when you take the key out?

I find that once the tab stops working then water gets in the barrel and things start to go wrong.

Mine still works fine on my box eye and it's done 44000.
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#13
It's a Yamaha ignition  :lol
I've had this problem with every Yamaha I've owned.
I've found the best thing is to regularly press a bit of Vaseline into it.

Don't use WD40 as this cleans out any grease inside and allows water to create problems in there
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#14
I'm off to the chemist for Vaseline tonight.


Can you also use it on battery terminals?
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#15
Yep,,, battery terminals lips and girlfriends  Wink
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#16
(17-01-14, 12:57 PM)Razgruff link Wrote: Yep,,, battery terminals lips and girlfriends  Wink


lol!
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#17
I always found that if the key didn't turn easily,  if I then either pushed the key towards the font of the bike,  or pulled it back towards me,  it then turned easily.

Did that on my old box eye, and the same on my FZS 1000.
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#18
This is defo a Fazer feature as they get a bit older. As above a slight push forward seems to do the trick.
The only real Fazer is a carbed 600.
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#19
No , spare unworn key is worse. Time for some Vaseline to shove down the hole.
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#20
Mines does this too. I just persevere and jiggle the key to get it to go - I think the keys are just made of cheese, seems to be a common issue.

(16-01-14, 09:17 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: If the key is badly worn I always thought that the barrel insides are also the same -- and sort of match each other so when you get a new key cut it has nice and sharp edges and so may not work. Or is that just stupid.

that seems ot be how it works in the Fazer, but it shouldnt work like this. the barrel should be made of harder steel pins so that the key is the part which takes the majority of the wear. that way when it wears out, replacing the key will fix the issue. It seems Yamaha have used a similar grade of steel for both parts so they wear equally though...

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