So, just ordered a nice Motad/Venom downpipes/can system for the Fazer. Any tips for fitting?
Had a gander at the article on here, which was handy, but all the photos weren't working. Started dousing the header bolts in WD40 and penetrative spray, which I'll keep doing until weekend when I fit them. Really don't want bolts snapping, but they still look in pretty good nick visually. Hoping previously ACF50 treatment is going to pay off. Anything else I should know?
23-10-13, 02:17 PM
(This post was last modified: 23-10-13, 03:05 PM by darrsi.)
The main trick is getting the old pipes off without uprooting or braking the studs, other than that clean the gasket area thoroughly and you can use a bit of grease or whatever you fancy to hold the new gaskets in place.
I think the torque settings for headers is quite low if i remember correctly so don't go mad tightening them.
And keep checking them every few days for a couple of weeks until they settle in as i found mine loosened a few times at first.
NOTE: Torque setting for the header nuts is only 10Nm
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Copperslip on the new studs?
(23-10-13, 01:45 PM)Arfa link Wrote: So, just ordered a nice Motad/Venom downpipes/can system for the Fazer. Any tips for fitting?
Had a gander at the article on here, which was handy, but all the photos weren't working. Started dousing the header bolts in WD40 and penetrative spray, which I'll keep doing until weekend when I fit them. Really don't want bolts snapping, but they still look in pretty good nick visually. Hoping previously ACF50 treatment is going to pay off. Anything else I should know?
I did this a while ago, all bolts came off fine (untill i tried to remove a stud that was fine where it was :rolleyes )
If you do brake any of the studs ive still got the ones i was going to fit.
ended up cutting up my downpipes to get them off, as otherwise they wouldn't move
Just looking at getting myself a torque wrench for the job. Good plan, or not really necessary if I go careful?
Think the article on here, mentioned these header bolts need no more than 10 Nm when tightened.
I didnt use mine on it (though i don’t think it goes that low)
Just make sure the new pipes fit naturally into all 4 exhaust ports, or it's a bugger to fit. I've done 3 sets of pipes to date, only 1 fitted without any 'adjustment' needed.
Stop polishing it and ride the bloody thing!!
![[Image: 850481.png]](http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-uk/850481.png)
(23-10-13, 03:10 PM)Arfa link Wrote: Just looking at getting myself a torque wrench for the job. Good plan, or not really necessary if I go careful?
Think the article on here, mentioned these header bolts need no more than 10 Nm when tightened.
Wouldn't bother if it's only for this job, just go easy. It needs fair less torquing than one instinctively feels it should!
However, if you plan on working on the bike a fair bit in future, it might be the time to invest in one as they are useful.
Try working the bolts back and forward rather than just turning them off in one go. It helps to break up the corrosion and dirt on the threads
I got lucky, the old bolts came off no problem, the venom down pipes I fitted was a perfect fit, the only ball ache is you will have to grow about 5 more pairs of arms etc. just give everything a good. Lean, I used a ratchet spanner for all the bolts, was fine. Just diddly is all, helps to have someone to "just hold that there while I do this" etc. otherwise it's a piece of piss!
(23-10-13, 02:29 PM)nick crisp link Wrote: Copperslip on the new studs?
Buckets of the stuff
Red Heads - Slowly taking over the world!!!
If you change your exhaust headers make sure the restrictor point of the new set is similar in overall opening size to the original set. [/size]The original outlet measured: [/size] [/size]35mm (narrowest point) to 43.5mm (widest point) externally at its most restricted point.
[/size]I’m not sure what the wall thickness is but I reckon it must be somewhere between 1.0mm and 2.00mm, my original pipes are still in good condition and I was loathe to saw them up to find out.
[/size]In any event the Motad replacement header system outlet pipe is has a clear open area of 1364sqm.[/size] [/size]Whereas the original outlet is restricted to somewhere between 962sqm and 1075sqm.
[/size]When I fitted the Motad headers the power band almost evaporated and a gas analyser showed it be running far too weak, this being supported by the plug colour.
[/size]A further test was done by a lazer temp gauge on the exhaust clamp bracket of both original and new pipes and this showed the exhaust gas temp had risen.
[/size]To solve the issue the Motad pipe was sleeved down first to 1075sqm which improved things no end, and finally down to 975sqm, which seemed to be better.
[/size]Plugs were checked and exhaust gas analysed and the results were as good as I could get them.
[/size]
[/size]
(25-10-13, 06:36 AM)Paul link Wrote: If you change your exhaust headers make sure the restrictor point of the new set is similar in overall opening size to the original set. The original outlet measured: 35mm (narrowest point) to 43.5mm (widest point) externally at its most restricted point.
I’m not sure what the wall thickness is but I reckon it must be somewhere between 1.0mm and 2.00mm, my original pipes are still in good condition and I was loathe to saw them up to find out.
In any event the Motad replacement header system outlet pipe is has a clear open area of 1364sqm. Whereas the original outlet is restricted to somewhere between 962sqm and 1075sqm.
When I fitted the Motad headers the power band almost evaporated and a gas analyser showed it be running far too weak, this being supported by the plug colour.
A further test was done by a lazer temp gauge on the exhaust clamp bracket of both original and new pipes and this showed the exhaust gas temp had risen.
To solve the issue the Motad pipe was sleeved down first to 1075sqm which improved things no end, and finally down to 975sqm, which seemed to be better.
Plugs were checked and exhaust gas analysed and the results were as good as I could get them.
Would a re-jet of the carbs not have solved this problem?
To Ruby Racing
Yes I guess it would, but it was easier just to sleeve the pipe down a little.
I'm a bit of a lazy arse, and a mate of mine had some old pipe that had the right internal diameter.
And I remember reading a test on a fazer in the late 1990's and the author wrote that he reckoned it was the most perfectly carbureted bike he had ever ridden.
Fitted!
![[Image: FZS600-Stainless-Downpipes-Fitting-09-1024x612.jpg]](http://www.beginnerbiker.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/FZS600-Stainless-Downpipes-Fitting-09-1024x612.jpg)
Bolts came off without issue. Have been dousing them in penetrative spray and WD40 for last week. Warmed engine up a bit prior to loosening them too. Just worked my way around them all, couple of turns each, so as not to put undue stress on any single bolt. Only problem, was the handle on my mini socket broke. It was perfect tool for poking through from the front and getting to the bolts. My main socket set was just too big for about 3 or 4 of the bolts. In the end some mole grips on the remains of the mini socket did the trick!
Covered bolts with copper grease before replacing. Just gently tightened them up. Not 100% sure I've tightened them enough. Saw a little smoke come from tops of pipes, wasn't sure if it was a leak or grease and gunk just burning off. Bikes sounds and runs so much better though! The Venom can isn't too loud, quieter than before (but then my 4-into-1 was riddled with holes), just nicely purrs.
Whilst I was at it and had access, I give engine a bit of a clean and covered it in ACF50 ready for winter (so that's been smoking a bit too!)
Looks good. Nothing like the smell of oil n grease n gunk burning off an engine n exhaust after a bit of work on it :-)
How much was the exhaust system matey?
Gav
This week I've been mostly tinkering in the garage
Keep checking the header nuts are okay every couple of days for a short while as they need to settle down and i noticed mine loosening off by themselves through general movement.
The smoke will probably just be burning grease but even that being burnt away can cause things to slacken off.
That's also why i suggested the torque settings because at least you have a guide to know if they are correctly tightened.
10Nm just doesn't feel like it's enough, but if they're all equal then you know you've done things right. 
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
I rang Motad up and haggled a bit, on the basis I'd put a write up of the pipes on my blog. ;-) So whole system came to £240 delivered, which I thought was very reasonable TBH.
Anyway, here's my write up with lots of pics and all the tips I picked up on removing/fitting the pipes:
http://www.beginnerbiker.com/2013/11/fit...fazer-600/
Yep, will keep an eye on the bolts over this coming week. Need to get myself a new mini 1/4" wrench to get to some of them mind. Will also have to give the can a try with the baffle removed too.
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