Clutch Pushrod - ok to pull out?

[bbb]

Decided to check the sprocket nut and clean out the crud/relube from behind the sprocket cover. The nut is the old 9mm so will need to head to wemoto for the 12mm but the sprocket is solidly on and the threads look ok (phew), the amount of crud was as expected.


When I took the cover off the clutxh pushrod was stuck to the actuator and pulled out by a good 4cm, pushed it back in but it doesn't feel as if it is pushing on the clutch springs just a hard dead stop. Could something have fallen out internally? looking at the parts  fiche it isn't obvious if anything can.


Cheers.

[andybesy]

Hi,

I'm not an expert, sure someone else will give expert answer soon, but from my own experience doing same job and in interests of quick response:

Yes, all sounds fine. The amount of travel on the push rod is actually quite small, such that even just how tight the casing bolts are done up makes quite a big difference to clutch adjustment.

I remember it feeling like you describe, like it's not in place or pushing against any spring, but seat it properly and do up the casing and once tight you should feel it work as expected via clutch lever.

Andy

[Dead Eye]

+1

Sounds fine to me The push rod can be pulled out completely (need to watch for the ball bearings though) so no harm in it being removed only slightly. It takes a fair amount of force to push against all 6 of the springs on the clutch (otherwise it would work very well ) so its not out of the ordinary

[bbb]

Sweet  , had visions of having to pull the clutch apart for what should have been a 30 minute job. Need to order the sprocket nut and tab washer and also replace the gasket. I seem to remember pulling the rod out of my SRAD a few years back without any problems but you never know.


Just have to re-assemble it in the dark now  :rolleyes .

[bbb]

Back together and feels fine.

[ChristoT]

Back together and feels fine.

Always good to hear! 

[Ruby Racing]

pushed it back in but it doesn't feel as if it is pushing on the clutch springs just a hard dead stop.

If you were just pushing it with your hand then that's probably why it felt like nothing was happening. You need the leverage of the clutch lever to get things moving. Anyway, sounds like all is well.

[fazersharp]

Funny -- today I have just taken off my sprocket cover to clean, wow what a mess old chain grease -road grit, feathers/ dead rabbits. first of all pulled out the cluch pushrod 1 cm to clean, slid back in, then 2 inch -clean then 4 inch---- sod it pulled it all the  way out  its about 10 inch long and is curently laying on the floor in the garage.
Did I read somwhere that I am suposed to grease it or should it be dry like it is now.
The ball bareing as far as I can see canot drop out as the hole is smaller than it,
Im thinking now I shouldnt of pulled out the push rod, but so far as I can see there was nothing holding it in, no resistance pulling out - no noise that made me think oops what was that.
Here is a picture of my now cleaned cover,the spring not yet put back, what I do want to know is, what is behind the goldish cover with an "X" and 4 screws. I canot remove the screws as the metal is so soft that the heads just knacker( same gos for the cluch actuenter) 2 screws   
The acuentuator only moves about- 0.5-1cm when you pull in the cluch - it moves up and down which in turn pushes in the push rod and I guese the springs on the cluch keep it pushed in the other direction 

Also mr (or mrs) bbb please look here http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,9738.0.html as I see that you have a 98 fazer. Mine too after (i know only) 16k miles has the origional sprocket an untouched nut and all looks ok.

The amount of travel on the push rod is actually quite small, such that even just how tight the casing bolts are done up makes quite a big difference to clutch adjustment.

This too sounds spot on, as I have read that if you do not use the gasket then you will have to adjust the cluch at the leaver end

[Dead Eye]

Its not the ball bearing in the actuator you need to worry about - there is one that is up against the push rod on the clutch side of the engine (the push rod pushes against the bearing)

It doesn't usually fall out so you should be fine, its just something to be aware of just in case. More likely to happen when on the side stand

[fazersharp]

Nothing came out with the rod and it is on the centre stand
Should I be lubeing the push rod with somthing like a dry lube -silicone spray

[Dead Eye]

I don't remember if its necessary or not, but you will need something that is a bit more tolerant to heat than silicone spray

This is purely speculative; a lithium based grease might hold up but something like copper grease has better heat tolerance

The rod shouldn't be spinning so it doesn't really need much grease if any - its only that small side-to-side movement to operate the pressure plate

[CRH]

i did mine last year!....and used copper grease!...just a thin smear is all it needs ..also greased the actuator and spring with same!!

[Fazerider]

... what I do want to know is, what is behind the goldish cover with an "X" and 4 screws. I canot remove the screws as the metal is so soft that the heads just knacker( same gos for the cluch actuenter) 2 screws   

It's the damper plate. The name suggests it was to cut down on noise from the chain on the front sprocket, the fact that they left it off later versions suggests it wasn't very effective. :lol
It does have one benefit though: when the sprocket nut comes loose, it can't fall off the end of the shaft. So the thread on the shaft just mangles the softer thread of the nut rather than getting wrecked by the splines of the sprocket.
This may be the reason Yamaha told your dealer that '98 models aren't affected by the sprocket nut problem. So far as I'm aware, 9mm nuts come adrift on '98 models just as frequently as the later ones, it's just that they're less likely to need the output shaft replaced afterwards.


As for the clutch pushrod, what little lubrication it needs is provided by the engine oil. Any grease pushed in past the oil seal is going to find its way into the oil, so I'd avoid Moly and copper greases and just use engine oil. Copper grease is intended for parts that don't move, it's not a great lubricant... just an anti-sieze compound.

[fazersharp]

Great reply --thank you
So have you done your 98 fazer nut

[Dead Eye]

You learn something new every day ^^

[fazersharp]

Here is a picture of me with my push rod in my hand------u er misses
I put a very thin layer of engin oil on but still when I pushed it in most of it came off at the rubber seal so I wiped most of it off - I dont think it needs anything

[bbb]

Fazersharp - you went to town cleaning that out, just left mine on the back to clean and then liberally greased up. Rode it to work today and it feels much smoother both clutch and gears. Also wondered if the shiny/rusty bit was a damper plate and tried to remove it but the heads chewed, I really need to invest in some JIS bits.

[His Dudeness]

The gloves! :lol Looks like CSI Fazer :lol Leave the damper plate alone it didn't do anything to you! :lol