Replacement radiator

[Steve]

Hi all.

I've finally got some money together and I'm tidying up my Fazer. First and foremost, one of the things that I've been meaning to replace is the radiator due to some cosmetic wear. I'm not too worried about money- I'd rather put a bit more into it to get a better part if you're with me. However I checked with my local Yamaha dealer and frankly the prices I'm looking at for a genuine replacement part are extortionate.

What I'm looking for is some advice in regards to aftermarket parts. Thus far I've been using genuine Yamaha parts for both my bikes and I have little experience with other manufactured parts.

Has anyone had any experience with Delvic parts? Any fitting issues or the like I should be aware of? Or is there another manufacturer that I've missed?

By the end of my tinkering I want the bike looking as close to brand new as possible and if I can continue to put some money away it might even become a bit of a project of mine.
Any and all advice would be great thanks!

[Fazerider]

My original radiator lasted five years until a SMIDSY incident. I replaced it with a genuine Yamaha one which died from corrosion after only four years. That was followed by an aftermarket one off eBay (can't recall the make) which lasted two years and then a Delkevic one which is just beginning to leak after a mere 15 months.
While the pattern radiators haven't lasted as long as the OE ones in my experience, I can't say for sure that the cause is down to quality issues. I haven't been very diligent at cleaning lately... no ACF50 and lots of use on salted roads may account for the difference.
I'm expecting a Chinese rad to turn up in a week or so, or at least a message from Mt. Pleasant sorting office demanding some VAT before they'll release it. After tax (and the Post Office bill for administering it), the cost should be under £100... so even if it has a third of the life expectancy of an OE unit it'll still work out cheaper.

[fazersharp]

Yamaha one which died from corrosion after only four years. That was followed by an aftermarket one off eBay (can't recall the make) which lasted two years and then a Delkevic one which is just beginning to leak after a mere 15 months.

As far as I know you are sposed to put anti freeze in the rad---- why are you useing acid !

[Ruby Racing]

I have a ZRX too and frequent a forum for that. Couple of folks have used the Delkevic rads and the build quality is pants according to them, so maybe don't bother with one of those.


You could try getting one made. In PB magazine a few months ago they got one built for their Daytona 955 race bike and I don't think it was too expensive. I'll see if I can find details.

[AdieR]

Don't know your location, but try these people http://www.autocoolradiators.co.uk/services.html

[Steve]

I've tried contacting AutoCoolRadiators and WestMerciaRadiators both but neither has got back to me.

Has anyone had any experience with Motorcycle Repair Specialists in the East Midlands?

[Fazerider]

I meant to update the story of my cheap Chinese radiator ages ago but time, enthusiasm and access to the photos took a while to coincide.
The upshot is that it was a pain to fit.
At the bottom left hand end of the rads, the main inlet port on the original is angled back… the steel pipe that the short length of hose connects to is similarly angled so the hose has a straight run.






The new rad was made with the port in line with the main axis of the body. This means the hose has to make a slight Z bend to fit, but the diameter and thickness of the hose is too great to make that possible without putting a lot of strain on the fragile alloy radiator.
It was the same problem at the other end of the radiator (sorry, didn't take a comparison shot of that), with the thin pipe arranged in line rather than angled back.


Rather than face the hassle of sending the item back to Hong Kong, I decided to modify the fittings on the bike to make them suit the radiator.
On the right, I bent the mounting brackets of the thin steel pipe so that the narrow hose was parallel with the connector on the radiator.








Then I found some longer bolts and assorted spacers (arrowed) to mount the steel pipe forward enough to get the hose in line with the rad connector.






I couldn't manage the same trick on the left quite so easily. The top mounting bracket on the big steel pipe fouls the radiator when it's mounted far enough forward to give the hose a straight run.
So I cut it off.






Here's a side view: top arrow indicating the unsupported end of the pipe and the lower arrow indicates the spacer on the remaining (bent) mounting bracket.





I was a bit concerned about having the pipe unsupported at one end, but the bottom bracket holds it firmly and vibration doesn't seem to be an issue. It's been ok for the couple of thousand miles I've covered since doing this bodge anyway.

[limax2]

Fazerider. Interesting to see you have used domed nuts on the exhaust  :thumbup . I have been thinking of making some domed nuts out of brass for the same job.

Steve. To get back to the main topic, I fitted a Delkavic to a boxeye fazer I was repairing about three years ago and it's still going strong. The quality looked o.k. and no problem with the fitting. It was filled with 50/50 antifreeze mix and the bike doesn't see salted roads or much rain. I paid about £100 at the time for it.
My own 2000 Fazer 600 still has the original radiator and I also use a 50/50 antifreeze mix. It doesn't get used in bad weather if I can help it but that doesn't always go to plan.
My understanding is that the antifreeze also contains corrosion inhibitors to protect the aluminium parts of the engine and radiator etc.

[Fazerider]

Note there are three different types of anti-freeze, two of which shouldn't be mixed so it's best to change the lot and flush with de-ionised water if you don't know what type is in there.
The leaky Delkevic rad I took off definitely rotted through from the outside, once I'd cleared away the fins between the tubes perforations were visible at the bottom of small craters I guess it is worth washing the bike and spraying it with WD40 now and then. Well, in winter anyway.


Re the domed nuts: can't think why Yamaha don't use them. They keep the crap out so the stud doesn't corrode and you never have any problem with them seizing. Making some out of brass seems like hard work though, these are stainless and cost about £3 for ten.

[Dave48]

interesting to read Fazerider. I too bought a "pattern" replacement radiator for my previous 03 600-a German made one by Paaschburg & Wunderlich came from M&P for £145 notes delivered and I had exactly the same problem with the LHS lower pipe angle as you describe. Strange for the Germans to get it wrong! :eek .
Domed nuts for exhaust header studs-cant find any listed in brass so like mentioned am going to buy stainless which are commonly available.

[limax2]

Making some out of brass seems like hard work though, these are stainless and cost about £3 for ten.

Agreed  :thumbup  Stainless it will be  .

[gryphongryphon]

Got mine here just over £70  delivered.

http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/237609541.html

After posting this just noted it says no longer available....


Some more listed here.
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?Sear...1203105414

[Tefer]

I meant to update the story of my cheap Chinese radiator ages ago but time, enthusiasm and access to the photos took a while to coincide.
The upshot is that it was a pain to fit.
At the bottom left hand end of the rads, the main inlet port on the original is angled back… the steel pipe that the short length of hose connects to is similarly angled so the hose has a straight run.






The new rad was made with the port in line with the main axis of the body. This means the hose has to make a slight Z bend to fit, but the diameter and thickness of the hose is too great to make that possible without putting a lot of strain on the fragile alloy radiator.
It was the same problem at the other end of the radiator (sorry, didn't take a comparison shot of that), with the thin pipe arranged in line rather than angled back.


Rather than face the hassle of sending the item back to Hong Kong, I decided to modify the fittings on the bike to make them suit the radiator.
On the right, I bent the mounting brackets of the thin steel pipe so that the narrow hose was parallel with the connector on the radiator.








Then I found some longer bolts and assorted spacers (arrowed) to mount the steel pipe forward enough to get the hose in line with the rad connector.






I couldn't manage the same trick on the left quite so easily. The top mounting bracket on the big steel pipe fouls the radiator when it's mounted far enough forward to give the hose a straight run.
So I cut it off.





Here's a side view: top arrow indicating the unsupported end of the pipe and the lower arrow indicates the spacer on the remaining (bent) mounting bracket.





I was a bit concerned about having the pipe unsupported at one end, but the bottom bracket holds it firmly and vibration doesn't seem to be an issue. It's been ok for the couple of thousand miles I've covered since doing this bodge anyway.

I have just been down the Chinese radiator route and now encountering these problems.


Could you do away with not attaching the water pipes to the frame?


As you have spaced the pipes out did you need longer bolts? What is spacing the pipes just washers?

[Fazerider]

I have just been down the Chinese radiator route and now encountering these problems.

Could you do away with not attaching the water pipes to the frame?

As you have spaced the pipes out did you need longer bolts? What is spacing the pipes just washers?

I didn’t consider the idea of leaving the pipes hanging. I think it might strain the ports on the radiator if they’re free to wobble about. If Yamaha could have got away with saving a few brackets and bolts they would have done so.


Yes, the original bolts were too short to include spacers. IIRC they were pretty corroded anyway. The spacers were some I happened to have… drilled out nuts will fill the gap, though a load of washers will do if you’ve enough.

[Disorderlypunk]

i dont know if this will help as i havent got out of bed to go have a look at where you mean to take measurements (9 cans into youtube)
try searching 'threaded spacers' on ebay - i have found a few options to hide bolt threads where they need hidden for aesthetic and mechanical  purposes

[Hugh Mungus]

I've tried contacting AutoCoolRadiators and WestMerciaRadiators both but neither has got back to me.

Has anyone had any experience with Motorcycle Repair Specialists in the East Midlands?

A mate had a rad refurbished at Leicester Radiators. It was a similar cost to buying a new Chinese rad. He sold the bike pretty soon after fitting the rad so I've no idea how long it has lasted.


http://www.carradiatorsleicester.com/


I fitted a new Chinese rad to my old FJR1300. There were a couple of fitting problems but not as bad as the one in the pics above. It is still going strong 2 years later despite the new owner dropping the bike in a car park. I know others who have fitted them and not had any problems with them leaking and they ride all year round. I got mine from an English seller (for £67) so didn't face any import charges. At that price I thought it was worth a go as it was cheaper than sending it off to be repaired.