How do I reset the cam chain tensioner (already removed it)

[maclean]

As title really,

I've had the usual rattle although my fzs is only 25k miles.  Its not needed urgently so have just randomly decided to see if I can fix the rattle.

I don't know if my tensioner is knackered or what here:

I obviously get that it presses against cam chain to take up slack, but when I took mine out it was fully extended and if I squeeze it shut it springs back open on its own and the little tooth thing lets it.  But it stops it going backwards - is that right yeh?

Do I just screw it back in and that's it reset?  Anything I need to do with it to 'reset' it?

At 25k im thinking its unlikely to be an issue with the chain itself right?

[Dead Eye]

Basically, you just hold the catch open and slide the plunger back then screw it back on to the engine. As you tighten it, you will hear the plunger advance as it "ticks" against the catch. Hope that helps

[maclean]

Thanks for the quick reply mate, but if I push the plunger in, it springs back out as soon as I let go.  The tooth latch thing does not hold the plunger in when i let go.. Is that right??

[maclean]

Okay after looking at some videos and thinking, I think my cct is okay, however how do i hold the latch open as i screw it back in?  Since the plunger is completely out, if i screw it back in, wont the latch stop it retracting?

[Dead Eye]

Do you mean that the latch isn't preventing the plunger from moving away from the engine when you are screwing it in?

With the tensioner in its correct place, the plunger should be able to move towards the engine but it shouldn't just fall out. The ratchet should then prevent the plunger from moving away from the engine.

[Fazerider]

Okay after looking at some videos and thinking, I think my cct is okay, however how do i hold the latch open as i screw it back in?  Since the plunger is completely out, if i screw it back in, wont the latch stop it retracting?

Yes.
From memory: loosen the bolt at the back, unlatch the plunger and push it all the way back against the spring, then tighten the screw at the back and that'll secure the plunger fully retracted. Bolt the assembly back on the engine then slacken off the bolt at the back... the plunger is then free to ratchet forward and tension the chain. Retighten the bolt at the back (it's too short to engage with the plunger now that is in its normal operating position).

[simonm]

[quote author=maclean link=topic=7854.msg76588#msg76588 date=1368732103]
Okay after looking at some videos and thinking, I think my cct is okay, however how do i hold the latch open as i screw it back in?  Since the plunger is completely out, if i screw it back in, wont the latch stop it retracting?

Yes.
From memory: loosen the bolt at the back, unlatch the plunger and push it all the way back against the spring, then tighten the screw at the back and that'll secure the plunger fully retracted. Bolt the assembly back on the engine then slacken off the bolt at the back... the plunger is then free to ratchet forward and tension the chain. Retighten the bolt at the back (it's too short to engage with the plunger now that is in its normal operating position).
[/quote]
Thanks, very handy to know.

[marksfazer]

When i adjusted mine, I removed the tensioner from the engine via the 2 hex bolts, then I completely removed the centre bolt, the 2 springs and ball bearing.
Reset the tensioner,  Refitted it back into engine, then refitted the little ball bearing, springs and bolt. As you wind in the centre bolt it will push the tenisoner out and tighten the slack on the chain.

[simonm]

When i adjusted mine, I removed the tensioner from the engine via the 2 hex bolts, then I completely removed the centre bolt, the 2 springs and ball bearing.
Reset the tensioner,  Refitted it back into engine, then refitted the little ball bearing, springs and bolt. As you wind in the centre bolt it will push the tenisoner out and tighten the slack on the chain.

Doesn't that remove the element of 'automatic' and allow you to have the cct too tight against the chain ?

[Fazerider]

Actually, I was talking bollocks... I was remembering a previous engine. :o
Marksfazer is correct. On the Fazer the bolt provides the seating for the spring and doesn't screw into the plunger.
Reassemble as he describes and the spring is what pushes the plunger forward so the camchain doesn't get overtightened.

[marksfazer]

Doesn't that remove the element of 'automatic' and allow you to have the cct too tight against the chain ?

No, because the spring and bolt, when fitted, are designed to put the correct amount of pressure on the plunger. The ratchet mechanism is to stop the plunger from moving backwards.

[simonm]

Doesn't that remove the element of 'automatic' and allow you to have the cct too tight against the chain ?

No, because the spring and bolt, when fitted, are designed to put the correct amount of pressure on the plunger. The ratchet mechanism is to stop the plunger from moving backwards.

Thanks for the clarification, I hope my post came across as an enquiry and didn't cause offense.

[marksfazer]

No not at all, i'm glad to be of help.
Mark.

[maclean]

Thanks for the replies!

I did not realise that center bolt needed to come out!

Made complete sense after that!


I have not put it all back together yet to see if the rattle has gone but will do it tonight. 

As a test I put the cct in and screwed the middle bolt in and heard a 'brrrrrrrrrrr' as the plunger extended but I felt a bit uneasy as it sounded like it fully extended out.

I then decided to take it off again by the two allan bolts to see if i could hear if there were any clicks so I could tell how far out the plunger was and I heard 2 clicks.


So basically it seems as though my 25k bike is two clicks from fully extended on the tensioner..  Is that right?  Seems a bit worn for 25k miles.

[Dead Eye]

Based on the thread asking when people changed theirs it doesn't sound too abnormal. But, there is no definitive answer it seems. Some bikes go for ever, others are changed fairly often.

At 2 clicks from max, I'd be starting to think about replacing it. Mine was on 5 clicks from max when it was at 26k - since I've got the engine split I'll be replacing mine

[maclean]

Is it possible to do it by splitting cam chain and attaching a new one and feeding it round?  Splitting engine sounds like a bit more hastle than I mentally prepaired for lol.

[Dead Eye]

Yes, you can certainly do it that way, sorry if my previous post was misleading

A recent thread on here showed someone doing it - I'll see if I can find it

Edit: Here it is! http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,6858.0.html

[maclean]

Thanks for your help, will have a look and have a think about it!

Cheers