I can shift up to 2nd but it won't go up to 3rd. The lever moves up but it just stays in 2nd. I then have to change down to 1st then back to 2nd a few times and then the gears work fine for the rest of my journey. After leaving the bike until after work or overnight the problem comes back until I shift between 1st and 2nd a few times.
Any ideas? The bike is a 1998 FZS600 with 30k on the clock. I commute 70 miles a day mostly on the motorway so gearbox is not extensively used and I change the oil every 6 months.
It could be the detent spring is not strong enough, preventing the lever from clicking back to the center position, if that makes sense.
I seem to have read that about a couple of times.
Yeah, detent spring rings a bell, i had this problem a couple of years ago and had a spring changed and it sorted it out.
There was another part i had on order but there was too long a wait for it so i cancelled the order as i really needed the bike back.
You try go into 3rd but it finds a kind of false gear from what i can remember.
If i can find my old post i'll put it on here?
It needs sorting out straight away though, when it happened to my bike my next ride was straight to the mechanic very slowly.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
31-01-13, 02:48 PM
(This post was last modified: 31-01-13, 02:50 PM by darrsi.)
Gear change "main selector spring", that was it.
And it was the ''selector drum detent wheel'' that i couldn't wait for.
Here's the post: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,2913....l#msg22998
Blimey, just noticed it was only 8 months ago, i thought it was longer than that! :rolleyes
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Thanks hopefully easy fix then :rolleyes
31-01-13, 11:13 PM
(This post was last modified: 31-01-13, 11:18 PM by darrsi.)
If you don't know the history of your bike, you may want to consider changing your clutch cable as well while you're at it.
Get an original Yamaha one, not just any cheap old make, they definitely feel better.
I think the clutch has to come out, it's not a 5 minute job by the way!
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Just checked, Geniune yam cable, 30 quid + shipping!!
It's just that if you have a worn/stretched cable it will not help matters!
And while it's all apart it's worth doing if you can afford the expense.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
True, just found on ebay for 10 pounds, stupid AJ sutton. Thinking of changing mine for the same reasons.
01-02-13, 12:07 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-02-13, 12:24 AM by unfazed.)
Why not just adjust the free play in the sprocket cover, before trying to replace it anything
Screw the lever adjuster in all the way then remove the rubber bung on the sprocket cover and open the locknut and adjust with a screwdriver until most of the free play at the lever is taken up (not all of it) tighten the locknut and then complete the final adjustment at the lever. Standard free play is 5mm between lever and mount. No need to remove the clutch to change the cable
If this does not solve the problem remove the clutch and check the springs. if they are ok you will need to check the selector forks and drum.
Unfortunately this is an engine out job but not a complete strip as you can with care remove the selector forks with the sump removed.
Good luck
+1 to not removing the clutch - absolutely no reason to unless you want to replace the clutch as well. Its not a particularly hard thing to do to be honest, can just be a bit messy and probably sensibly to do an oil change at the same time.
I have just bought a new clutch cable (cheap eBay thing) since I'm on a tight budget and the £30+ for the Yam one seems extortionate. I'll see how I get on with it I guess...
01-02-13, 08:00 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-02-13, 08:32 AM by darrsi.)
When i mentioned the clutch may have to come out i was referring to the spring and detent wheel for inspection, not the clutch cable.
Am i totally off the mark here?? :rolleyes
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
That much I can't comment on myself, but if you are just adjusting the clutch cable then there is no need to touch the clutch it self
01-02-13, 11:59 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-02-13, 12:00 PM by darrsi.)
No, sorry i s'pose it was a bit misunderstanding the way i added that comment, as i was referring to the spring and wheel.
I remember my mechanic saying he had my clutch apart, and invited me to go and have a look, but i didn't have a bike so couldn't :lol
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
That's fine, I've got the clutch and everything else apart on mine at the moment ...
I am going to remove some covers and see what's going on. My lever does have some free play so will tighten that up. I will update when I sort out the problem.
Just out of curiosity does the punch dot on the shaft line up with the slot where the lever mechanism is bolted on. If not it can cause all sorts of funny gear change woes
Just a follow up on this post. The bike is back in working order and all it needed was replacement of two springs. Fairly easy job, you do have to remove the clutch but this is pretty straight forward so don't be daunted by doing this job. Send me a message if you want more details.
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