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Clutch Adjustment
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16-02-12, 08:10 PM
Is it worth getting the clutch adjusted by Yamaha? Gear changes arnt as smooth as i expect, yeah i know first clunks into second mine clunks from 2nd to 3rd and smooth from there on.
The biting points in the correct place, any ideas on pricing aswell? cheers
16-02-12, 11:18 PM
the only thing that can be adjusted is the cable. is 2nd to 3rd the only problem?
17-02-12, 12:05 AM
There's a good few reasons why your gear change is not as sweet as it could be...
Clutch Chain tension Oil condition and level Gear lever operation to name a few... Check the old site for some hints and tips which should point you in the right direction. Baz 
18-02-12, 10:27 PM
Seems like theres abit of play on the lever, when i tighten it up at the lever the biting point is really high, anyway i can make the lever tight with the biting point abit lower?
20-02-12, 11:16 PM
You can adjust the lever free-play by removing the plastic bung on the side casing just below where the clutch cable enters the engine. When this is removed you should be able to see a cross-head screw with a locknut.
Undo the locknut (it'll be reet tight btw) and screw the cross-head in or out until you're happy with the amount of play at the clutch lever, nip up the locknut, test, then tighted the locknut fully and re-locate the bung. HTH... Baz
 (20-02-12, 11:16 PM)Fazbaz link Wrote: You can adjust the lever free-play by removing the plastic bung on the side casing just below where the clutch cable enters the engine. When this is removed you should be able to see a cross-head screw with a locknut. NOOOO, don't play with that! If freeplay is the problem, sort it out at the lever. Less free play will mean a higher biting point (which is actually good if you use 2 fingers for clutch operation, which is also good ).Lower nut is tricky and if you're not 100% sure what you're doing, you could cause clutch slippage. If oil is of good grade and quality, check gear lever at the bottom - is it bent, is it moving like it should (compare with another FZS, or newer Yamaha, not a Honda )?If all that's OK, try getting biting point a bit higher (and reducing freeplay as well) at the clutch lever end. P.S. Problems when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear could mean gearbox is worn out I think. Not 100% sure though.
Most things done in a hurry need to be done again - patiently.
22-02-12, 12:57 PM
Not entirely correct.To set clutch at lower adjustment (pressure plate).Loosen completely at lever adjustment,remove lower bung,loosen locknut,adjust screw inwards, lightly ,until you feel pressure.then turn back anticlockwise 1/4 of a turn,tighten locknut and then adjust at lever.Make sure you leave some freeplay at the lever end or clutch will slip or worse.This is a very simple straight forward job,and Yamaha will do it no differently than your average biker.Most bikers should be able to adjust it for you in less than 5 mins.
22-02-12, 02:23 PM
Will have ago this weekend, the rearset on gear side does look a little bent, almost asif the gear selectors bent inwards towards the engine. Would that make much of a difference?
When i got the bike i had 13,000 miles now has 18,000 and its ALWAYS clunked into third, strangly doesnt clunk much shifting down.
22-02-12, 03:56 PM
Gear selector is inside the gearbox,think you mean the gearchange lever.Would affect gearchange slightly if adjuster rod is bent,as the original adjustment would be different due to the damage.Remember all Yams have clunky gearboxes,most people learn to live with it.
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