Hi All,
Looking for a bit of advice or maybe a part if it ends up that way (will make a separate post in the proper category if it does.)
Had a major service done on my bike and following that the clutch started slipping under hard acceleration, lower threshold when colder (i.e. took less to make slip when less heat in the engine/box). Adjusted the cable to have proper play in it, have drained and replaced the oil with motul 10w40 and still no dice. Bit the bullet and ordered plates and springs to do the jobs lot while it was apart and found this.
Had my eureka moment until I took the pressure plate off and found this
So now I'm torn, in an ideal world I'd like to get a replacement inner basket but I can't find one for love nor money but on the other hand i'm wondering if 5 springs/bolts is still sufficient and just chuck the new plates and springs in and be done with it.
Any thoughts or guidance is appreciated
Look like still available from CMSNL new. Failing that its ringing round the bike breakers.
One missing is 17% down on the spring pressure, uneven pressure, likely to slip. I wouldn't ride it like that
(17-03-25, 09:18 PM)agricola Wrote: Look like still available from CMSNL new. Failing that its ringing round the bike breakers.
One missing is 17% down on the spring pressure, uneven pressure, likely to slip. I wouldn't ride it like that
Would you believe it's the only part out of stock... I'll have to keep an eye out for it but thanks for somewhere to source it.
Fortunately the weather is still crap enough to not temp a ride.
17-03-25, 10:09 PM
(This post was last modified: 17-03-25, 10:13 PM by matt7chunk.)
Set Fazer's to stun
From personal experience CMSNL will order stuff for you if necessary, and if you explain you need the part urgently they will go out of their way to help you out.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Plenty of complete clutches available on Ebay
Hi All,
Thanks for the replies, ended up ordering a boss off ebay and have swapped it all out now however the long push rod doesn't return after being pressed so i've got that to figure out. I dont suppose anyone would know if it's as simple as the ball bearing missing? Did the job on the side stand and didn't remove the long push rod before changing so can't imagine it's gone anywhere but sods law probably says otherwise
23-03-25, 03:31 PM
(This post was last modified: 23-03-25, 03:36 PM by unfazed.)
If it is all back together correctly then it is most likely the spring in the sprocketor cover or the actuator needs to be greased or replaced as they wear from lack of maintenance . I will put a document in the manual download section of how to do it. Be aware the screws holding actuator are just a step above cheese. Often it is best to replace the cover with a good secondhand one rather than trying to remove them. If that is ok oil, reroute the cable correctly or replace the clutch cable, with a Yamaha rather than a spurious/pattern one. Best is to use spray on grease
(23-03-25, 03:31 PM)unfazed Wrote: If it is all back together correctly then it is most likely the spring in the sprocketor cover or the actuator needs to be greased or replaced as they wear from lack of maintenance . I will put a document in the manual download section of how to do it. Be aware the screws holding actuator are just a step above cheese. Often it is best to replace the cover with a good secondhand one rather than trying to remove them. If that is ok oil, reroute the cable correctly or replace the clutch cable, with a Yamaha rather than a spurious/pattern one. Best is to use spray on grease
As far as im aware, it is all back together according to the official service manual, and the cable was perfectly fine prior to me changing the basket and clutch plates etc. The only bit i had trouble with was the torquing of these bolts which might obviously explain my issue. In the end I just rattled them tight with a ryobi ratchet wrench. I'm leaning towards this also as i've had the bike on it's centre stand, engine running and kicked it into first and back to neutral with 0 wheel movement.
pressure.png (Size: 75.5 KB / Downloads: 39)
putting the bike in gear, possibly with a piece of wood through the wheel, would stop the engine trning to allow you to torque these up normally.
As for running the engine and gettign 0 wheel spin when you put it in gear, sounds like the clutch isnt engaging at all now 
You may need to readjust the clutch using the bolt on the gear lever side and then the cable again.
Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again
(28-03-25, 06:05 PM)BBROWN1664 Wrote: putting the bike in gear, possibly with a piece of wood through the wheel, would stop the engine trning to allow you to torque these up normally.
As for running the engine and gettign 0 wheel spin when you put it in gear, sounds like the clutch isnt engaging at all now
You may need to readjust the clutch using the bolt on the gear lever side and then the cable again.
Yeah thats what im thinking, however the pressure plate felt like it was spinning individually of the inner basket - I suspected i lost the ball bearing and have replaced this so i'll give it a revisit this weekend, im just hesistant to whip off the cover for need of a new gasket etc.
I vaguely remember when I put my new clutch plates on that there was a problem when I tightened everything up, but the cause was due to the clutch adjuster screw sticking out from its previous position with the worn plates.
I had to undo the clutch cable locking nut, back off the middle adjusting screw, then tighten things up again from the other side, then it all worked nicely again once the clutch adjustment nut was adjusted to the new plates position.
Hope that makes sense?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(28-03-25, 07:21 PM)darrsi Wrote: I vaguely remember when I put my new clutch plates on that there was a problem when I tightened everything up, but the cause was due to the clutch adjuster screw sticking out from its previous position with the worn plates.
I had to undo the clutch cable locking nut, back off the middle adjusting screw, then tighten things up again from the other side, then it all worked nicely again once the clutch adjustment nut was adjusted to the new plates position.
Hope that makes sense?
I've done this to no avail unfortunately, backed the push rod side of the adjuster off completely and readjusted to quarter turn before tight (with clutch adjuster flush as loose as possible) and no dice. Cable just feels like i'm pulling against itself i.e. stretching it
28-03-25, 09:11 PM
(This post was last modified: 29-03-25, 06:44 PM by unfazed.)
For some reason my file on the clutch acuuator adjustment did not upload last time. Use this method as you can feel the adjustment working.
The bottom line, back off the sprocket clutch adjuster, and adjust it,as in the download, take off the clutch cover and check the pressure plate lifts when you pull in the clutch lever. If not remove the pressure plate and press and hold the clutch push rod in with your finger, pull in the lever, does it push your finger. (I presume your new clutch pressure plate had the release bearing in it) if it does push you finger out a bit and there is a bearing in the pressure plate. Then the issue is most likely that the pressure plate is fitted incorrectly or the friction plates are incorrect. The pressure plate has a wrong and right way to fit it. The wrong way appears ok, but tightening the bolts can break the pressure plate like most likely what happened to your original pressure plate. If unsure fit the pressure plate remove it rotate it and fit it again. The wrong way will be obvious as the plate will not slot in completly even though the bolt holes will have lined up.
This have not been approved yet in the downloads
FZS600 Clutch Adjustment
Sometimes after replacing the clutch friction plates the clutch will not work properly. Usually, it is out of adjustments and needs to be adjusted at the cable end, the Sprocket end or both. Try adjusting the clutch this way, but first ensure the Clutch lever pivot hole is not worn and cable is not frayed causing the elongation of the cable They can fray at the handle bar or inside the sprocket cover. Take off the sprocket cover off and check it If all ok with the cable and lever then follow this method:
1. Screw in the cable adjuster in full at the lever end.
2. Remove the rubber bung on the sprocket cover. Loosen the lock nut with a deep good quality
ring spanner or a 6-sided socket to loosen the locknut (it will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you).
3. Turn the lock nut anti clockwise a full turn.
4. Turn the centre screw anti clockwise a full turn with a good fitting flat screwdriver.
5. Pull the lever and hold your fingers lightly on the clutch lever as if pulling in the clutch.
6. You will feel the lever moving out.
7. Keep turning the screw until the lever is about 5 to 6mm from the lever housing.
8. Use a ring spanner to tighten the lock nut while holding the adjust in position with the screwdriver.
9. Grease it well with plain grease
10. Replace the rubber bung.
11. Make any final adjustments at the cable adjuster.
12. If you cannot get less than 10mm at the lever and/or the adjuster screw tightens fully replace the cable.
In your case number 12 will aply when yo have checked the clutch itself
29-03-25, 01:38 AM
(This post was last modified: 29-03-25, 10:18 AM by darrsi.)
(28-03-25, 08:10 PM)Rust3d Wrote: (28-03-25, 07:21 PM)darrsi Wrote: I vaguely remember when I put my new clutch plates on that there was a problem when I tightened everything up, but the cause was due to the clutch adjuster screw sticking out from its previous position with the worn plates.
I had to undo the clutch cable locking nut, back off the middle adjusting screw, then tighten things up again from the other side, then it all worked nicely again once the clutch adjustment nut was adjusted to the new plates position.
Hope that makes sense?
I've done this to no avail unfortunately, backed the push rod side of the adjuster off completely and readjusted to quarter turn before tight (with clutch adjuster flush as loose as possible) and no dice. Cable just feels like i'm pulling against itself i.e. stretching it Not sure if I made myself clear?
You're describing adjusting the clutch cable starting with the lower end, which is obviously the correct way to do things.
I'm on about when tightening up everything from the other side of the bike, my adjuster middle screw was poking out too far so when everything was tightened up in the clutch area it was pushing onto that screw so nothing was seated properly, and in turn never functioned properly either.
Once I figured it out and backed of the adjuster nut & screw, then went around the right side of the bike to undo then retighten everything properly again and I could feel that it had all seated itself much better and further into place.
Once that was all nice and cosy I then finished the usual nut & screw adjustment on the left side of the bike.
Apologies, I do vaguely remember it, but also have got a bit of a memory issue to deal with due to a previous head injury. Wouldn't be surprised if I've mentioned it on here around the time I was doing it though?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(29-03-25, 01:38 AM)darrsi Wrote: (28-03-25, 08:10 PM)Rust3d Wrote: (28-03-25, 07:21 PM)darrsi Wrote: I vaguely remember when I put my new clutch plates on that there was a problem when I tightened everything up, but the cause was due to the clutch adjuster screw sticking out from its previous position with the worn plates.
I had to undo the clutch cable locking nut, back off the middle adjusting screw, then tighten things up again from the other side, then it all worked nicely again once the clutch adjustment nut was adjusted to the new plates position.
Hope that makes sense?
I've done this to no avail unfortunately, backed the push rod side of the adjuster off completely and readjusted to quarter turn before tight (with clutch adjuster flush as loose as possible) and no dice. Cable just feels like i'm pulling against itself i.e. stretching it Not sure if I made myself clear?
You're describing adjusting the clutch cable starting with the lower end, which is obviously the correct way to do things.
I'm on about when tightening up everything from the other side of the bike, my adjuster middle screw was poking out too far so when everything was tightened up in the clutch area it was pushing onto that screw so nothing was seated properly, and in turn never functioned properly either.
Once I figured it out and backed of the adjuster nut & screw, then went around the right side of the bike to undo then retighten everything properly again and I could feel that it had all seated itself much better and further into place.
Once that was all nice and cosy I then finished the usual nut & screw adjustment on the left side of the bike.
Apologies, I do vaguely remember it, but also have got a bit of a memory issue to deal with due to a previous head injury. Wouldn't be surprised if I've mentioned it on here around the time I was doing it though?
Couldn't figure out what you meant by middle adjuster but guessed it was the worm screw on the left side of the bike. Regardless I took all tension off the push rod and re fit the pressure plate and springs etc. and that's what was wrong with it so now she's back on the road - thanks again
(29-03-25, 04:09 PM)Rust3d Wrote: (29-03-25, 01:38 AM)darrsi Wrote: (28-03-25, 08:10 PM)Rust3d Wrote: (28-03-25, 07:21 PM)darrsi Wrote: I vaguely remember when I put my new clutch plates on that there was a problem when I tightened everything up, but the cause was due to the clutch adjuster screw sticking out from its previous position with the worn plates.
I had to undo the clutch cable locking nut, back off the middle adjusting screw, then tighten things up again from the other side, then it all worked nicely again once the clutch adjustment nut was adjusted to the new plates position.
Hope that makes sense?
I've done this to no avail unfortunately, backed the push rod side of the adjuster off completely and readjusted to quarter turn before tight (with clutch adjuster flush as loose as possible) and no dice. Cable just feels like i'm pulling against itself i.e. stretching it Not sure if I made myself clear?
You're describing adjusting the clutch cable starting with the lower end, which is obviously the correct way to do things.
I'm on about when tightening up everything from the other side of the bike, my adjuster middle screw was poking out too far so when everything was tightened up in the clutch area it was pushing onto that screw so nothing was seated properly, and in turn never functioned properly either.
Once I figured it out and backed of the adjuster nut & screw, then went around the right side of the bike to undo then retighten everything properly again and I could feel that it had all seated itself much better and further into place.
Once that was all nice and cosy I then finished the usual nut & screw adjustment on the left side of the bike.
Apologies, I do vaguely remember it, but also have got a bit of a memory issue to deal with due to a previous head injury. Wouldn't be surprised if I've mentioned it on here around the time I was doing it though?
Couldn't figure out what you meant by middle adjuster but guessed it was the worm screw on the left side of the bike. Regardless I took all tension off the push rod and re fit the pressure plate and springs etc. and that's what was wrong with it so now she's back on the road - thanks again Yes, exactly that, thank you for clearing that up, I knew what I meant but couldn't think of "worm screw", lol.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Ammended my previous post as the file for the downloads has not been approved yet
(29-03-25, 06:45 PM)unfazed Wrote: Ammended my previous post as the file for the downloads has not been approved yet
Awesome, will keep this in mind for future thank you. Turns out i'd neglected step 4 when putting the new clutch plates etc. in the first time and that was the root of my problem
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