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FZS600 first bike - advice?
#41
(11-12-23, 06:13 PM)Gnasher link Wrote: Yes.  It depends on quite a few factors, but even a well looked after bike.  The shock at 15k miles ish will have lost its edge at least, most will have stopped damping in any predictable manner.  That said one of the factors is how and where you ride, a past it's best shock my not be noticed by you.


Thanks for the quick answer, I did not expect you to reply.
So technically I can ride on without having to upgrade the rear suspension? It's just not a great experience I guess.
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#42
Possibly, depends how bad or not to you shock is.  What do you ride currently?
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#43
(11-12-23, 06:48 PM)Gnasher link Wrote: Possibly, depends how bad or not to you shock is.  What do you ride currently?


Currently nothing, sold my PD06 Hond Transalp a few months ago. I am looking for a solid but inexpensive learner bike for 2 or 3 years.
A local dealer (Germany, sold with one year of warranty) has offered me a Fazer 600 (2001) with 20k km in very good condition for a bit over 2000€.

But I am not sure if I should not spend a few Euros more on a CB500X, if I have to upgrade the rear suspension and possibly the exhaust manifold of the Fazer.



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#44
Transalps have more suspension travel compared to a Fazer.

That and depending on how good the shock on the Alp was, could we'll make the Fazer for you a sports feel.  Try it and take a view. To be honest most owners don't push their bikes hard enough (solo) to notice a under damped shock, providing it's not really bad.
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#45
sorry to jump on this tread, there was mention of magnet test for the headers, mine is 2001 model boy eye, the down pipes are stainless manky but stainless and magnets do not stick, the only magnet part is the link pipe attached to the end can, the can itself has stainless outer at least, but the pipe going into as said is black mild steel. Down pipes up to the joint are stainless.


is this an oem set up? the end can is oem, going by the seized and sheared exhaust bolts i think its original as well?
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#46
Not sure what you're asking?  OEM for your model year is stainless headers/down tubes, with a mild steel link pipe/ end can fitted with an outer stainless sleeve. 



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#47
yes just checking if that is right as some said mild steel down pipes.
Actually looks decent grade stainless ie no damage magnet will not stick to it and seems to clean up ok, unless big performance gain see no need to change it then? take it link pipe and end can all needed to have full stainless system?


Cheers
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#48
Ok got you now.  Wink  To correct myself, your model yr 01 should have mild steel double skin down tubes.  It's very likely you've got aftermarket stainless steel replacements on your bike.  OE stainless weren't fitted until 02 and they aren't that good. 
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#49
plot thickens. might be non oem down pipes then but been there long enough to seize so badly the studs shear off.


Ah well when i get time over the festive break will clean it up and see about a stainless can and link pipe if i ever get the studs fixed


cheers
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#50
Adding to his question abot the exhaust pipes.
The dealer sent me pictures of it, looks a bit rusty, but does it need immediate replacement?


[smg id=3624 type=preview align=center caption="Exhaust pipe"]


The first picture looked fine.


[smg id=3625 type=preview align=center caption="Exhaust pipe"]
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#51
(15-12-23, 05:56 PM)hobbicon link Wrote: Adding to his question abot the exhaust pipes.
The dealer sent me pictures of it, looks a bit rusty, but does it need immediate replacement?


[smg id=3624 type=preview align=center caption="Exhaust pipe"]


The first picture looked fine.


[smg id=3625 type=preview align=center caption="Exhaust pipe"]
They will probably have some pinholes in that will get bigger. I am still on the OEM steel pipes on my 25 year old Fazer but (read my sig )
I have got away so far with filling the small holes that I have with high temp 2 part putty stuff. Its further underneath on that picture where it pits the worse. 
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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#52
Here you are read here and you will see exactly where i mean so that the picture you have will not show it. https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,2225...#msg257939But for me it has been fixable. The last thing i used was JB Weld High Heat and that has been the best thing for staying on.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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#53
Well this made me go check mine its definitely not oem then, no balance or link pipes between the headers and no nut flanges, goes 4-2-1  and once i cut through the grime its stainless, need to scrub at the welds to check them as its thick in decades of crud.
so far looks solid


looking at the pictures if no welder available, try braze or solder, can use a map gas torch.


for a small areas like that other idea might be gun gum or the like and put a plate across the whole area, fill it with gun gum and either wire it up or use belly bands like very long hose clips to pull it all together.
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