What are you going to do with your Fazer this winter...?

[Grahamm]

Ok, so we have the "what did you do with your Fazer" thread, but I've been going through the list of things that I want to do on my FZ6 this winter and was somewhat surprised at how many items are on it!

Nothing is safety critical, but they're things that I've been meaning to do for a while, just not done because other stuff has taken up my time.

I normally ride all year round, but at the moment I don't have anything on my calendar which I'm going to need it for, so here's what's on the list:

1) Sort the throttle out.

For some reason, there's a point at which it "sticks" for a moment when I open it. It's not a major issue and it's not like it jams or anything, but it means the power delivery isn't as smooth as I like.

Also, whilst I've got the grip off I'm going to put some silicone lube on the cables.

2) Lube the clutch cable.

Like with the throttle, the clutch isn't quite as smooth as it should be, so some silicone lube on that won't go amiss. Also I probably should check the free play which I've been meaning to do, but never got around to over the summer.

3) Balance the throttle bodies.

I'm actually not sure that there might not be a vacuum leak on cylinder 4, because that's the one the Scotoiler was linked to, but I found out earlier this year that it wasn't delivering the oil as it should. I replaced the oiler tubing (which had a hole in, probably didn't help!) and then the oil reservoir/ pump, but that didn't solve the issue until I moved the connector to cylinder 3.

4) Check the valve clearances.

I've been meaning to learn to do this for myself, rather than taking it to the workshop and, because I've got the old engine that died a couple of years ago, I can practice on that before I do it for real, just in case I mess anything up! The engine is over the 24,000 miles point, so it's a good time to do it.

5) Fix the instrument cluster display. 

When we had the thunderstorms a few weeks back, instead of being parked in the shed, the bike was on my sister's driveway as I was staying there and water got into the cluster, making the display fade out. Fortunately I've taken it apart before, so it's a much easier job this time, but it's a hassle having to take off the fairings etc.

6) Bleed the brakes.

Since I put the HEL braided lines on, the braking has become a lot more effective and the feel is better, but I'm thinking it's always a good idea to check that they're still in tip-top condition.

7) Everything else...!

Lots of little bits, like, recently, on a Group Ride, we were on a bumpy country road and I lost my right hand blind spot mirror I hadn't had one for ages, but, when I put it on, I realised how helpful it was and now I miss it!

The bike needs a wash after getting caught in the rain and I should re-do the ACF 50 after I've given the downpipes a polish.

Put a new connector on the Optimate Lead. For some reason, when the bike is on charge (I also use the lead to supply power to the TomTom Sat Nav cradle) it loses connection. I've tried cleaning the contacts, but I think there may be corrosion on the other side which is causing an issue.

As I said, none of these are safety critical issues that would eg cause an MOT fail, but I've just been busy with other stuff, so not got around to them for months...!

What about the rest of you? Got any plans/ upgrades/ tweaks you're going to do?

[agricola]

Nothing much for me this winter. Normal maintenance late winter/spring time ie full service. Valve clearances are due in another 2k, might leave that till next winter. Gonna continue to ride if the weather is pleasant enough, avoiding the salt. Wash coming up, then like Graham, it'll get a waft over of ACF50. Currently musing over getting another bike, solely for the track. Mid noughties supersport 600, but which one?

[darrsi]

Clutch cable shouldn't really be lubed.
I just fitted a Slinky Glide clutch cable from Wemoto, and it feels very light and smooth. Plus I sprayed a load of grease into the clutch cable housing too while it was off, which no doubt helped things a bit as well.

[fazerscotty]

#1. Fit the Ivan's kit arriving in a couple of weeks.

#2. Touch up paint work where required.
#3. Fit new pair of tyres - thinking of PR 5's or Avon XDM's(?)
#4. Fit new battery - current one doesn't hold charge very well.
#5. I'll more than likely think of something else..........

[Grahamm]

Clutch cable shouldn't really be lubed.
I just fitted a Slinky Glide clutch cable from Wemoto, and it feels very light and smooth.

I've got the same one, but it's been on there for a while now and it doesn't work as well as it might sometimes when I'm trying to feather the clutch.

According to some blurb I've found: "Constructed to extremely high standards, all Slinky Glide cables are coated with a rust and freeze resistant compound, plus a polyamide lining inside the outer cable which further reduces friction and wear as well as providing smooth operation."

The cable's been on there for a few years now (annoyingly I can't find the receipt saying exactly when I bought it) so I think I'll drop Slinky Glide an email and see what they say (although they'll probably just say replace it!)

[Grahamm]

#4. Fit new battery - current one doesn't hold charge very well.

You can buy a Drop Tester from eBay for about £20 which is a cheap way of checking if a battery is good and saves replacing it just to find out!

It also saves the hassle of trying to find a local garage that will check it for you

#5. I'll more than likely think of something else..........

Yep, that's what I kept doing when I started compiling my list.

Actually your point #1 has reminded me that there are some small scratches on my tank that I'd like to put some T-Cut on...

[Grahamm]

According to some blurb I've found: "Constructed to extremely high standards, all Slinky Glide cables are coated with a rust and freeze resistant compound, plus a polyamide lining inside the outer cable which further reduces friction and wear as well as providing smooth operation."

The cable's been on there for a few years now (annoyingly I can't find the receipt saying exactly when I bought it) so I think I'll drop Slinky Glide an email and see what they say (although they'll probably just say replace it!)

Well, I sent them a mail asking if I could use silicone or lithium spray lube and got a very quick reply back:

You can use them, however, we would recommend PTFE White Grease.

A spray can of this appears to be £6 on eBay, so time to buy some...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/20032533660

[the cueball]

ehhh... I'll be riding mine as usual....it had a going over with ACF50 a couple of years ago.. and that's about it..


:rollin

[darrsi]

[quote author=darrsi link=topic=27182.msg327696#msg327696 date=1635977785]
Clutch cable shouldn't really be lubed.
I just fitted a Slinky Glide clutch cable from Wemoto, and it feels very light and smooth.

I've got the same one, but it's been on there for a while now and it doesn't work as well as it might sometimes when I'm trying to feather the clutch.

According to some blurb I've found: "Constructed to extremely high standards, all Slinky Glide cables are coated with a rust and freeze resistant compound, plus a polyamide lining inside the outer cable which further reduces friction and wear as well as providing smooth operation."

The cable's been on there for a few years now (annoyingly I can't find the receipt saying exactly when I bought it) so I think I'll drop Slinky Glide an email and see what they say (although they'll probably just say replace it!)
[/quote]


I bought it ages ago and kept it in my top box just as a spare. But I wanted to grease the bearings in the housing so thought I'd change it while I was doing it.
Found one strand of cable had broken at the lever end so I timed it bang on fortunately.

[Grahamm]

Found one strand of cable had broken at the lever end so I timed it bang on fortunately.

Phew! Definitely very fortunate.

It's often one of those things that you don't bother about until *snap* and you think "Damn, I wish I'd checked that more recently..."  :'(

[Grahamm]

Having seen a post by someone on the Facebook group who had polished up their fork lowers, that reminds me that I really wanted to clean up and repaint mine as they've become rather battered after many years of road grit etc.

[fazerscotty]

[quote author=fazerscotty link=topic=27182.msg327699#msg327699 date=1636019427]
#4. Fit new battery - current one doesn't hold charge very well.

You can buy a Drop Tester from eBay for about £20 which is a cheap way of checking if a battery is good and saves replacing it just to find out!

It also saves the hassle of trying to find a local garage that will check it for you

#5. I'll more than likely think of something else..........

Yep, that's what I kept doing when I started compiling my list.

Actually your point #1 has reminded me that there are some small scratches on my tank that I'd like to put some T-Cut on...
[/quote]


Lol - I don't check batteries with a load tester. It loads the battery too quickly, heating up the plates, which then distort and shed sulphate across the lower portion of the cell. The battery then won't take or hold a charge.

[b1k3rdude]

It will sit under a cover for most of it, I will have to deal with dead batteries and the spectre of E10.

[Grahamm]

Lol - I don't check batteries with a load tester. It loads the battery too quickly, heating up the plates, which then distort and shed sulphate across the lower portion of the cell. The battery then won't take or hold a charge.

I've never heard of that before and I know several garages that use load testers to make sure a battery is good (not simply to screw it up so they can sell you a new one!)

Do you have any links regarding this, especially with the gel type batteries that bikes tend to use?

Mine is always on the Optimate in the shed when it's not being used and that has a Desulphate mode if it's ever needed.

[robbo]

#1. Fit the Ivan's kit arriving in a couple of weeks.

#2. Touch up paint work where required.
#3. Fit new pair of tyres - thinking of PR 5's or Avon XDM's(?)
#4. Fit new battery - current one doesn't hold charge very well.
#5. I'll more than likely think of something else..........

Shame you didn't have the Ivanising kit when you changed the throttle cables, as you'd done all the hard work getting the carbs off.
For me, other than a repair to the Ermax undertray, an oil/filter change and an exup valve service there's nothing pressing to be done to the Fazer. Got all my planned powder coating done last winter, so the bikes as good as ready for next season.

[fazerscotty]

[quote author=fazerscotty link=topic=27182.msg327725#msg327725 date=1636226007]
Lol - I don't check batteries with a load tester. It loads the battery too quickly, heating up the plates, which then distort and shed sulphate across the lower portion of the cell. The battery then won't take or hold a charge.

I've never heard of that before and I know several garages that use load testers to make sure a battery is good (not simply to screw it up so they can sell you a new one!)

Do you have any links regarding this, especially with the gel type batteries that bikes tend to use?

Mine is always on the Optimate in the shed when it's not being used and that has a Desulphate mode if it's ever needed.
[/quote]


Its primarily found on Lead/Acid and not Gel batteries. I work in the light aircraft industry and by regulation we have to load check the battery at least once a year (we call it a capacity check - sometimes get checked more depending on manufacturer or type of operation). It's well known that this process shortens the life of the battery considerably and a lot of Licenced Aircraft Engineers don't do it as these batteries can be anything between £300 - £600 each depending on voltage and size.
I utilise this knowledge and once my batteries start to be unhappy crankers, then they get replaced - I don't fancy getting stuck anywhere or worse than that not being able to get out  :eek .
Optimates are okay, all three of my bikes are hooked up, but like anything nowadays, they can't do the impossible  :'(

[fazerscotty]

[quote author=fazerscotty link=topic=27182.msg327699#msg327699 date=1636019427]
#1. Fit the Ivan's kit arriving in a couple of weeks.

#2. Touch up paint work where required.
#3. Fit new pair of tyres - thinking of PR 5's or Avon XDM's(?)
#4. Fit new battery - current one doesn't hold charge very well.
#5. I'll more than likely think of something else..........

Shame you didn't have the Ivanising kit when you changed the throttle cables, as you'd done all the hard work getting the carbs off.
For me, other than a repair to the Ermax undertray, an oil/filter change and an exup valve service there's nothing pressing to be done to the Fazer. Got all my planned powder coating done last winter, so the bikes as good as ready for next season.
[/quote]


Tell me about it  :'( :'( :'(
Still, it means a few hours in the nasty cold garage, with the smell of E10 wafting around - WITHOUT THE GRANDKIDS  :rollin :rollin :rollin

[Grahamm]

Its primarily found on Lead/Acid and not Gel batteries.

Ah, right, thanks for the clarification.

Optimates are okay, all three of my bikes are hooked up, but like anything nowadays, they can't do the impossible  :'(

I've had around 6 years out of a battery using the Optimate. Generally they're only rated for 2-4 years before they need replacement!

[Grahamm]

As mentioned in the "What did you do with your Fazer today?" thread, I ticked several items off the list, but, whilst I was doing that work and generally checking things over, I've also added a bunch more to the "to do" list...

It' approaching 12,000 miles since most of these were done, so they're worth sorting out now:

New oil filter and oil change.
New air filter
New spark plugs.

New chain and sprockets (This doesn't absolutely need doing yet, but the front sprocket is starting to feel slightly hooked)

Replace the throttle cables (even though I've lubed the old ones, it still has the OEM 2006 ones on there!  :eek )

Replace the clutch cable (if the cable lube doesn't help smooth things out)

So I've just paid Wemoto £180 for all the bits...

[darrsi]

As mentioned in the "What did you do with your Fazer today?" thread, I ticked several items off the list, but, whilst I was doing that work and generally checking things over, I've also added a bunch more to the "to do" list...

It' approaching 12,000 miles since most of these were done, so they're worth sorting out now:

New oil filter and oil change.
New air filter
New spark plugs.

New chain and sprockets (This doesn't absolutely need doing yet, but the front sprocket is starting to feel slightly hooked)

Replace the throttle cables (even though I've lubed the old ones, it still has the OEM 2006 ones on there!  :eek )

Replace the clutch cable (if the cable lube doesn't help smooth things out)

So I've just paid Wemoto £180 for all the bits...

Which clutch cable did you go for? I'm really liking this Slinky one from Wemoto, as it seems to feel very smooth and effortless.