Bike too upright when side stand is down = Lowered maybe?

[NJD]

Once the fronts done the back is less of a hassle, but you wont know how it rides until then.


You can use the C-Spanner in the tool-kit to adjust, as seen here:





The bigger the gap the harder the suspension and the more load it will take, and vice versa the lower you go (less load, less gap because less travel required).


Standing behind the bike and using both hands to push down on the grab rail (with bike on side stand) will give you a good idea of where you are currently in regards to how soft or hard it is, but you need you and your most used load (chains, locks etc if commuting if your most done thing) to get a true setting. Its a try and adjust kind of thing.


edit


owners manual


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611242...zs600.html


service manual


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/923683...00-98.html


there is a download section on this forum for all the manuals if you'd prefer that, worth a look as it has more downloads / info and updated diagrams.

[BBROWN1664]

NJD - That does not lower the back end, just adjusts how much the spring is pre-loaded

[No]

Once the fronts done the back is less of a hassle, but you wont know how it rides until then.


You can use the C-Spanner in the tool-kit to adjust, as seen here:





The bigger the gap the harder the suspension and the more load it will take, and vice versa the lower you go (less load, less gap because less travel required).


Standing behind the bike and using both hands to push down on the grab rail (with bike on side stand) will give you a good idea of where you are currently in regards to how soft or hard it is, but you need you and your most used load (chains, locks etc if commuting if your most done thing) to get a true setting. Its a try and adjust kind of thing.


edit


owners manual


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611242...zs600.html


service manual


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/923683...00-98.html


there is a download section on this forum for all the manuals if you'd prefer that, worth a look as it has more downloads / info and updated diagrams.

Thank you & forgive my previous message format, mobile phones are terrible especially a tiny SE.


I think I understand the front forks. Undoing the top & bottom fork clamps either side, moving forks up or down & then retightening. I may just take it to a garage on Monday to avoid any mishaps considering it involves a vital thing like that.


It is currently my only transport but luckily only need to pop a mile or 2 to the shops once or maybe twice a day & my first bike in well over a decade so it’s hard to compare how it should ride. It feels by no means dangerous & actually quite smooth but I would consider myself a very bland rider & certainly won’t be significant speeds.


Thanks again for the links & advice. I know it’s the preload page but I’ve downloaded & will read through so appreciate the link nonetheless & shall update after the weekend

[Disorderlypunk]

what area are you based in, there might be someone nearby who can offer you a hand
its a two person job unless you have a basic bike lift or something heavy to sit on the back of the bike while its on the center stand
(never underestimate a bag of building sand :lol )

clamp bolt torque settings are 30nm/22ft lb

[Gnasher]

Having now made a good study of the pictures, read all your comments etc.  I think it's fair to say your out of your depth a bit here, don't take that the wrong way its not mean as a dig, but an observation based on your questions and answers.

In my opinion you've got a real dog there, it's a typical candidate for being a crash damage and/or insurance write off, unfortunately I'm seeing more and more of these.  It also appears whoever worked on it is a real bodger and scarper, with no idea.  My advice is to get someone who knows what they're doing look over it, it's highly likely there's a lot of hidden issues in there, some could be serious. 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I wouldn't recommend you ride it until it's been checked properly.

[No]

Having now made a good study of the pictures, read all your comments etc.  I think it's fair to say your out of your depth a bit here, don't take that the wrong way its not mean as a dig, but an observation based on your questions and answers.

In my opinion you've got a real dog there, it's a typical candidate for being a crash damage and/or insurance write off, unfortunately I'm seeing more and more of these.  It also appears whoever worked on it is a real bodger and scarper, with no idea.  My advice is to get someone who knows what they're doing look over it, it's highly likely there's a lot of hidden issues in there, some could be serious. 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I wouldn't recommend you ride it until it's been checked properly.

No no it’s fine I appreciate the honesty where safety is concerned. It is my first bike in many years & just needed a runabout during lockdown which is a 10 second ride up & down a steep hill, just until I can save some money. I have my Celica 190 to sell and some time to save.


The bike feels good to Chuck about and no major wobbles, although the front end is a bit soft.


I’m based in Cornwall so will find a bike mechanic as opposed to a car garage & have them give it a once over. The only advisories were tyres which I have but need fitting & balanced which I’ll do tomorrow (Monday)


Again I do appreciate the heads up.

[FILZ6]

Ideal time to push the forks back down through the yokes while you have the front wheel out for new tyre fitment.