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what did you do with your fazer today ?
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04-07-20, 09:11 AM
Before my bike had even arrived I bought new Givi arms and monorack and sourced a used V46 top box (my first top box in 39yrs of bikes!) so I fitted that last weekend. My first ride out with it tomorrow and I’m very much looking forward to having a boot!
fitted new chain and sprockets to the boxeye, while i had the front sprocket off i cleaned and re-greased the clutch release mechanism, got a really smooth, light clutch now :thumbup . to make it a bit easier to remove the clutch cable at the bottom end i removed the clutch lever, lots of wear on the mounting hole :eek will treat it to some new levers...had a test ride up to the ACE CAFE, which is now open, and chain and clutch are super smooth, happy with that but another problem has come to my attention, i`ll start another thread for that...
One, is never going to be enough.....
05-07-20, 10:21 PM
Well, after about 7 hours, I've managed to fit *one* of the new Hyperpro fork springs on my bike!
I was hoping for two, but it was a lot of hassle, firstly because it's something I've never done before, so I spent a lot of time figuring out exactly what needed to be done and checking and re-checking to make sure I didn't get anything wrong. I needed to get inventive at some points, for instance I had to remove the handlebars to get to the fork caps, so they're now hanging from the rafters of the shed by a whole load of cable ties that have been linked together! There's a similar set up with the brake calipers dangling from the mirror stems. Then there was the problem of dealing with bolts that hadn't been removed since the bike was new :-( I found that, to remove one of them, I had to daisy chain together a breaker bar, *two* adapters to go from a 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive to a 1/4" drive, then an adapter to let me use an allen key driver and THEN I discovered that this ridiculously long collection of tools was too big to get behind the front fairing, so I had to stop and take that off :-( Also, about five o'clock I started to get dehydrated and my brain started to get fuzzy to the extent that I couldn't concentrate on what I was doing and nearly managed to bugger everything up until, fortunately, I had enough sense to realise what was happening, stop and get a drink, after which my brain started working again...! So I finally got the first one sorted out, then had to figure out how to get sufficient oil into the fork such that the level was 140mm below the top of a metal tube. I eventually ended up using a steel ruler like a dipstick. I put a line at 140mm, then lowered it into the tube to see if there was any oil on the bottom. If there wasn't, I topped it up a bit more and tried again until finally I got it right. So, anyway, that's one done, at least the other one should be easier now I have a better idea of what needs to be done. I also have ordered myself a new battery, because the I installed the current one back in 2014, so it's no wonder it's a bit dodgy and the ECU is throwing error codes...! 
07-07-20, 03:03 PM
Fitted a pair of LED bulbs (thanks again Mr kebab19) to the mighty thou, to replace the OEM ones.
What a difference - fantastic. Also replaced the standard turn signal lamps on the clocks motherboard with green LED bulbs. Absolutely vast improvement. Don't think I'll ever be caught out leaving the indicators on again  These are the turn signal bulbs (in green) I bought from FleaBay - £2.99 for a pack of 10 - bargain!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-LED-Dash-Board-Bulbs-Car-T5-73-74-286-Light-Bulb-Lamp-CHOICE-OF-COLOURS/360975710313?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=630319454937&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Take a deep breath, coz it all starts now, when you pull the foccin' pin
07-07-20, 04:40 PM
Quote:[size=1em]Don't think I'll ever be caught out leaving the indicators on again [img alt=[size=1em]Think you need your eyes testing mate [/size][size=1em] [/size] Postage: Item location: Barnard Castle, United Kingdom :rollin
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
07-07-20, 05:10 PM
:rollin :rollin :rollin
Take a deep breath, coz it all starts now, when you pull the foccin' pin
07-07-20, 05:59 PM
(07-07-20, 03:03 PM)Dynspud link Wrote: [size=1em]Fitted a pair of LED bulbs (thanks again Mr kebab19) to the mighty thou, to replace the OEM ones.[/size]i leave mine on loads as Dynspud will verify lol, yup gotta get these
07-07-20, 09:07 PM
Am I foccing cursed or something?? :'(
I get the second fork spring installed (a lot quicker than the first one, now I know what I'm doing) and put everything back on the bike. My girlfriend needs me to bring her some stuff in QA Hospital (she has severe asthma), so I decide to take the bike around the block a few times to check I've got everything back together again and the bike still handles ok. Unfortunately I still have to bump start it because of the fault code that I can't fix at the moment, but that's no big deal. It all feels good, so I pull up outside the house to pick up the top box (it's difficult to bump it with the box on), back into a gap between two cars, side stand down and I'm about to get off when the bloody bike falls over on top of me, pushing me onto the bonnet of the car on my left!!! Fortunately one of my neighbours (whose car it is!) sees me and helps me get the bike off me and upright and I look down to see that the foccing side stand has snapped  Now I need to figure out if I can ride the bike up to QA, get off without the side stand (I have short legs, so I'm usually on the balls of my feet at a standstill), get it onto the centre stand, then drop the stuff off, then bump start it *again*, get on and get home before having to wheel it backwards into the shed and get it onto the centre stand again... I decided that this was *not* a good idea! So now I need a new side stand and a new left mirror as the stem broke when the bike went over Fortunately there's only a little dent in the car's bonnet which should push out. He even gave me a lift up to the hospital and back, only for me to be told by some bloody jobsworth receptionist that the Drop Off service closed THREE FOCCING MINUTES AGO and there's nothing she can do, because if she made an exception for me, she'd have to do it for everyone so I'll have to come back tomorrow... :2guns I can do without this shit... 
07-07-20, 09:15 PM
'kin hell mate,the way your lucks' running I'd shut the door and don't venture out for a while. :wall
never look down on anyone unless you're helping them up.
07-07-20, 09:46 PM
(07-07-20, 09:15 PM)coffee link Wrote: 'kin hell mate,the way your lucks' running I'd shut the door and don't venture out for a while. :wall Problem is, there's a market in Brighton on Sunday that I really want to do for the extra income Yes, I could get a train there, but it's a slow journey followed by a bus trip and a total PITA... 
08-07-20, 09:34 AM
Glad you're okay, but what happened to the side stand, did it break or something?
Later
(08-07-20, 09:34 AM)Gnasher link Wrote: Glad you're okay, but what happened to the side stand, did it break or something? The metal looks like it's just sheared away (see the pic). It's only a hollow tube, so if it's under compression with the weight going "down" the tube, it's strong enough, but the only thing I can think of is that, because the road has quite a steep camber and I parked the bike with the back wheel towards the kerb, the pressure on the stand was pushing it "forwards" rather than the bike just leaning against it to the side. I presume that it's weakened over the years (2006 registration) and this was just enough to push it to the breaking point ADDENDUM: It's just occurred to me that, of course, I've been using it to jog the starter (or whatever was causing the "doesn't want to start" problem) by putting it down and then "flicking" it back up to send a jolt through the starter/ engine/ switches/ whatever and that probably didn't help...
That's the first time I've seen or heard of a side stand snapping, blimey. Even i when left down or crashed the bend, there's no real side or share weight on them in operation it's all pretty much straight down force, very odd.
It's very possible whatever's caused this to fracture has damaged the side stand switch and would go a long way to explaining your past problems with the switch. I quick fix is to get it welded until you can get hold of a replacement, that said if it's welded correctly, bit of grinding and a paint it'll be good as new.
Later
08-07-20, 01:11 PM
(08-07-20, 10:33 AM)Grahamm link Wrote: [quote author=Gnasher link=topic=6412.msg317587#msg317587 date=1594197251] The metal looks like it's just sheared away (see the pic). It's only a hollow tube, so if it's under compression with the weight going "down" the tube, it's strong enough, but the only thing I can think of is that, because the road has quite a steep camber and I parked the bike with the back wheel towards the kerb, the pressure on the stand was pushing it "forwards" rather than the bike just leaning against it to the side. I presume that it's weakened over the years (2006 registration) and this was just enough to push it to the breaking point ADDENDUM: It's just occurred to me that, of course, I've been using it to jog the starter (or whatever was causing the "doesn't want to start" problem) by putting it down and then "flicking" it back up to send a jolt through the starter/ engine/ switches/ whatever and that probably didn't help... [/quote] I wonder if the bikes been lowered at the rear in the past. The owner would have shortened the stand to suit the new height, is it a welded joint thats failed?
08-07-20, 01:20 PM
Could be mate, you do get owners doing very strange things to their bike :rolleyes
Later
08-07-20, 02:36 PM
At least lowering kits have allowed any vertically challenged riders to usually have the bike of their choice, rather than a Serrow, a Virago or nothing. My sidestand is altered (made longer), in order to accommodate a 50mm jack up, to avoid leaning over at crazy angles at any hint of negative camber, especially when loaded with camping gear.
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
08-07-20, 04:56 PM
(08-07-20, 11:03 AM)Gnasher link Wrote: That's the first time I've seen or heard of a side stand snapping, blimey. Even i when left down or crashed the bend, there's no real side or share weight on them in operation it's all pretty much straight down force, very odd. As I mentioned, the road has a pretty steep camber, so it's possible that the bike rolled back a bit because the rear tyre wasn't against the kerb and the "foot" didn't slide, so it's like bending a tube in the middle where it's weakest Quote:It's very possible whatever's caused this to fracture has damaged the side stand switch and would go a long way to explaining your past problems with the switch. I had tested the switch with a multimeter and it seemed to be fine, giving the correct zero resistance/ infinite resistance responses, but you've made me think... I was worried that the "auto kill" would cut in when I put the bike into gear as it was still running and in neutral when the stand collapsed and I didn't switch it off. I was thinking that I'd have to push it all the way back around the other side of the block to get to the alleyway where my shed is, but it kept running (fortunately)! But I've just had a look at the side stand switch and it's not pushed in, because, obviously, there's no stand to push it in, yet it must have been like that after the stand broke. Luckily, though, I've bought a new (second hand) stand *with* the switch, so I'll just change over the whole unit.
08-07-20, 04:58 PM
(08-07-20, 01:11 PM)agricola link Wrote: I wonder if the bikes been lowered at the rear in the past. The owner would have shortened the stand to suit the new height, is it a welded joint thats failed? Lol, nope! I was the one who was thinking of getting it lowered. I actually had bought a lowering link in the past, but in the end never used it. As for welding the stand, the sensible thing to do would be to cut the "foot" off, shorten the "leg", then weld the foot back on, so, even if it breaks off, there's still something there to support the bike.
So, the saga continues, with a twist...!
I didn't have much time today, due to work pressures, but I took the opportunity to check the main fuse and ignition fuse etc, even though I was pretty sure that, had they gone, it wouldn't even run if I bump started it. Anyway, they were fine, but, when I came to switch on, it was fine with no sign of the Error Code 12! I used a piece of broomstick and a brick to push the sidestand cut-off switch in and tried the starter. The Check Engine and ABS lights came on and stayed on whilst I was pressing the start button. This is the same thing that would happen when I'd have to flick the side stand up to jolt the bike, after which it would often start, but not this time. I tried giving the starter motor a couple of taps with a hammer, then pressed the start button again, but got the same thing. I lifted the starter relay, cleaned up the wiring contacts, then took the rubber covers off the connectors to the battery and starter motor and (having checked there was zero volts going through it so I wouldn't fry my multimeter) tested if there was any continuity through the starter, but there wasn't which is how it should be. So (somewhat nervously, I have to add!) I took a pair of pliers with insulated handles and touched one side to the starter contact and then (after a couple of spectacular sparks :eek ) I managed to get the other one against the battery terminal and got the wonderful sound of the bike starting! I'm not quite sure where this leaves me. I don't have a set of jump leads, so I can't check the starter relay on its own. It doesn't seem to click when I press the starter, but the fact that the check engine and ABS light come on suggests that there's something in the bike's circuitry that's stopping it from turning over the engine, rather than there actually being a fault. I'm going to have to keep looking at this and eventually I may find something that makes sense...!
10-07-20, 09:29 AM
Mate sparks :eek please be careful it's quite easy to bugger your ECU when sort circuiting components, which is why I mentioned about resistance testing.
From what you saying, it's a relay fault and I think you've got a intermittent fault on the side stand switch. Often they just corrode inside which stops the mechanical switches moving and/or the coils energising, either way they don't work and your bike won't start.
Later
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