New chain and sprocket?

[Gnasher]

Actually why do we even need to lube, they are sealed via x or o rings.

You only need to lub the rollers and the sticky shite turns into grinding paste, which not only buggers the rollers it slowly destroys the X/O rings and the grease escapes and you get tight spots and a buggered chain.  It doesn't take long even in the dry somewhere between 4 - 12k, I've replaced chains with around 2k on them, I kid you not.  He'd being using cheap spray can lub, I think the propellant destroyed the O rings.

Oil just lubs the rollers, washes the grit off and protects the X/O rings.  Obviously you've got to do it properly and often enough, which could be every ride in some conditions, that's where Scottoilers excel, the chain is oiled all the time, you do need two settings dry/wet.  The latter isn't the odd shower it's prolonged rain over more than a day.       

[darrsi]

That doesn't look bad at all in black, and is probably the best part about that MZ  :lol

[Gnasher]

and is probably the best part about that MZ  :lol

Although they don't look very sexy, they're, cheap to run, reliable, simple and build for a purpose which they do/did extremely well.  They even race them and they're quick, not far behind the 250/350LC in the right hands, I kid you not. 

[Dudeofrude]

As you know my riding is dry only and I used the white spray sticky lube and the chain gained tight spots. Perhaps that's my problem - all dry / dusty riding sticking to the chain.Actually why do we even need to lube, they are sealed via x or o rings.

Funny you should say that as I was watching a video from MCN the other day where Neevsey was talking about motorbike upgrades and what you realistically need to bother with etc
He said he doesn't lube his chains at all, just cleans them with WD40 after each ride to get the crap off and that's that. He reckons your chain will last much longer and stretch less with that basic maintenance? And the guy does know he stuff ?

https://youtu.be/eDCtJUB6gfI

Good video all round but skip to the  16 minute mark onward for the talk about chains

[Gnasher]

He said he doesn't lube his chains at all, just cleans them with WD40 after each ride to get the crap off and that's that. He reckons your chain will last much longer and stretch less with that basic maintenance? And the guy does know he stuff

https://youtu.be/eDCtJUB6gfI

Good video all round but skip to the  16 minute mark onward for the talk about chains

It's just doing what oil does only it costs, 600ml around £5, 5Lt around £30, used engine oil cost nothing, WD40 also contains a propellant which evaporates, which isn't so cleaver in the rain. 

If you don't like the idea of using used oil, you can get 5lt of Tripple X semi 5w 30 for just over £16 that's approx £1.90 ish for 600ml and that's half the price of 5Lts WD.  I also found this stuff Mannol Defender Semi 10W 40 £5.99 for 5Lt :eek Don't think I'd be putting in my car but if it's made to the spec it say's it will be fine, it will probably not have all the nice additives but for chain lub which is waste oil, I'm going to give it a go. 

[robbo]

WD40 is no doubt ok for a Sunday morning breakfast whizz, but even he said he'd use chain lube on a proper trip, where a daily routine of a squirt of lube at the end of a knackering day is the way to go. Centre stands really come into their own then  :lol .

[fazersharp]

So wd40 sounds like what I need. I only do max 100 miles in a blat out and all dry dusty, so a quick spray with wd40 will wash off grit then most will evaporate leaving a clean washed/ slightly lubed chain with nothing to fling. At the minute after applying gear oil the first 70 miles i am almost reluctant to lean over too much  :eek   

[Gnasher]

At the minute after applying gear oil the first 70 miles i am almost reluctant to lean over too much  :eek 

If you apply too much even of WD you will get the same result.  That said the thing to bear in mind with WD if you're not the most accurate and you over do it the mist gets on to the tyre.  This acts a bit like silicon but not as bad, if you've ever used silicon water repellent or bike sprays and got it on a disc or tyre you'll know all about it very quickly, you've got to be careful with any spray, especially light oils/silicon.

Oiling using a brush or oil can directly onto the chain, should be directly followed by you wiping/running the chain through a cloth BE CAREFUL when you do this so as not to feed your fingers into the sprocket  :eek Wipe at the bottom hand rotating the wheel towards the front of the bike slowly NEVER have the engine running and the bike in gear.  Also as this is done after each ride any surplus not caught by the wiping, will just drip off and/or drop to the lowest point, it will not drift onto discs or tyre edges.  As oil flings off it also tends to fly off into the chain guard, sprocket cover etc, yes you will get some very small traces on the tyre wall.  Only if the oil is still being added to or it's just been done, will there be a risk of the oil reaching the tread.     

[fazersharp]

Oiling using a brush or oil can directly onto the chain, should be directly followed by you wiping/running the chain through a cloth BE CAREFUL when you do this so as not to feed your fingers into the sprocket  :eek Wipe at the bottom hand rotating the wheel towards the front of the bike slowly NEVER have the engine running and the bike in gear. 

Yep I do this

[fazersharp]

Here you go, after the first 10 miles. It was oiled wiped and left for a week then wiped again before riding. But after I cleaned off what you can see there was no more.

[Gnasher]

You're over oiling.


Also you've got to thoroughly and I mean thoroughly de-grease the chain and inside the sprocket cover of all your old spray on lub as adding oil softens all the hardened deposits.


 

[fazersharp]

You're over oiling.


Also you've got to thoroughly and I mean thoroughly de-grease the chain and inside the sprocket cover of all your old spray on lub as adding oil softens all the hardened deposits.
 

its a brand new chain and sprocket and the inside of the cover area was spotless. My regime was the white spray lube like my first pictures but since my new chain I have been oiling and this is only my 3rd oil which I am doing every 300 miles.
When oiling the chain i have been using a small bottle with a pointy nosel, hold it in position on one side and spin the wheel then do the other side of the links. Next time I will use a brush to put less on but spread it around.
Oil bottle
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlat...5162;image

[fazersharp]

Funny that I had about the same amount of fling when i used spray wax. Wonder if itts the person putting it on or something to do with the hugger.

[Gnasher]

This time of year and in the dry every 500 should do it.  Once the oils penetrated to the roller pins it will stay there for a good while, don't add anymore until the fling stops.  Then just a wipe with a unloaded brush on the rollers, not the side plates, the plates you can use a moisten sponge or thick rag.  You really don't need much at all, just a film on the rollers and on the roller pins   

[fazersharp]

It's clear I am putting too much on. But it only flings for 10 miles then nothing after. I will use your method next time. I understand the side plates are rust protected and shouldn't really need any more than a film.