New chain and sprocket?

[gfurm]

Hi,
Need advice on the subject. I think the chain on my Fazer is an original one as it got DID 50VN7 stamped on the link. Bike has done 17k miles.I'm pretty sure chain needs changning. It's lost some o-rings and mesures more than 152mm between 10 links (manual says max is 150mm).Front sprocket has plastic/rubber bits missing all over but the teeth are OK, that probably needs changing as well.Rear looks fine, no excessive wear to teeth.
Quesion is, will new 530 chain fit properly on original sprocket? Is this 50NV7 different size or is it just called different due to age? I can't seem to find any info on it.

[JoseSamuels]

hello im not sure of much but i do know if ur changing a chain or sprocket u need to change it all front rear sprocket and chain need to be new. I think thats what ur looking for.

[fazersharp]

Here's my story, I changed last year, chain had rights spots but like you the sprocket were ok apart from the plastic breaking away on the front, I did everything anyway


Forgot to add the link. Here you are http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=25205.25

[nedworthy]

Just to add support - It’s pretty much the same rule for bicycles as well -change cassette , chain and chainring at same time unless chain itself has been regularly replaced. So it’s best to do the lot - in future you can get away without having to repeat all this by replacing chain only well ahead of schedule.

[Gnasher]

It best practice to change the sprockets at the same time you change the chain, less then say 2k ok but after 17k no brainer.  If you don't it will reduce the chain life considerably, depending how bad they're drastically.  It's your money.   

I quality chain, properly maintained, ridden as many do, weekends, holiday in the dry should easily last 25k, many don't why......................

They're over and incorrectly adjusted, use aerosol lub that turns to a sticky paste.  Yes the stuff sticks, yes it lubs but it's also a magnet for grit, and grit added to paste turns into grinding paste.  They're dry lubs, these are silicon mixes, some are good others crap, for good ones, they're expensive, need applying every few hundred miles, they're better than sticky non fling aerosols, but need applying more often and for good one's bloody expensive. If expense is not an issue and you like a spotless bike, ride only high days, holidays in the dry, these are the way to go.   

If your more like many of us, the best thing is plain old engine oil, yes it's not as convenient, needs to be done every 500 miles or so more if its wet, but it's better.  As the grit is washed off, cheaper, you've already used the oil  Better still fit a Scottoiler (SO) and use the old engine oil.  Many are put off by SO's, as nearly all are fitted and set up very badly by stealers or owners, which means they over oil, flood or don't oil. 

I've lost count of the number of units I've fitted, to every type of bike, a good few to dispatch bikes that cover huge mileages, 30k plus yearly.  I've had bikes in fitted new chain/spockets and a SO, they were still on the same chain at 45k, these bikes are ridden in all weathers, Busa's with 30k, one had 38k on the chain, same for R1's, GSX-R's, ZX's etc, all in excess of 25k.  Chains with correctly fitted/adjusted SO will not need adjusting in 1000's of miles.  My XJR hasn't needed adjusting since I fitted the SO to what was a 2k bike when I got it it's now done 6k, my ZX10 was the same fitted at 1,5k it's on 7k now adjusted at 5k.

The other reason is poorly fitted chains in the first place, either by the stealers or owners, it's not as easy as it looks.  Poor quality tools and lack of experience and the link is just too tight, that's your chains life cut in half.  Best way is endless but that involves major work, but is the best option. 

Now if your happy with the convenience your sticky spray lub gives you, don't mind the mess in front sprocket housing/or frame/swingarm etc from over lub, or having to change it more often, you stick with it.  It's your money. 

If on the other hand, you're on a budget and want to adjust the chain much less, reuse old engine oil, either manually oil or fit a SO.  If you don't trust yourself or your local BS to fit the SO drop me a line.         
       

[fazersharp]

aerosol lube that turns to a sticky paste.  Yes the stuff sticks, yes it lubs but it's also a magnet for grit, and grit added to paste turns into grinding paste.  They're dry lubs, these are silicon mixes, some are good others crap, for good ones, they're expensive, need applying every few hundred miles, they're better than sticky non fling aerosols, but need applying more often and for good one's bloody expensive. If expense is not an issue and you like a spotless bike, ride only high days, holidays in the dry, these are the way to go.   

This is me.Which are the good expensive ones you speak of.18 years dry miles only had tight spots at 22k but sprockets were ok. But changed them anyway.

[fazersharp]

Since changing my C&S last year I have adopted the oil route (gear oil ) at the minute I and doing it every 300 miles as per DID recommendations. But even though I don't swamp it and I wipe it after and gear oil is thicker it still flings off and some ends up on the side of the tyre. After the first 50 or so miles its ok but still annoying.
I used to use putolone chain tech - see pictures, but even that still flung off.

[darrsi]

I use 80w90 gear oil on my chain these days, which i paint on at the rear sprocket every few weeks or so with a 2 inch paint brush while the chain is still warm after a ride, dependant on the weather (heavy rain). I then just wipe off as much excess as I can with a rag before putting the bike away.
The chain has never been in better shape. Every link remains completely free and no dirt or grit sticks to it at all any more.
Plus by using the paint brush very little oil is needed to cover the whole chain which also only takes about 2 minutes max to do.

[fazersharp]

I use 80w90 gear oil on my chain these days, which i paint on at the rear sprocket every few weeks or so with a 2 inch paint brush while the chain is still warm after a ride, dependant on the weather (heavy rain). I then just wipe off as much excess as I can with a rag before putting the bike away.
The chain has never been in better shape. Every link remains completely free and no dirt or grit sticks to it at all any more.
Plus by using the paint brush very little oil is needed to cover the whole chain which also only takes about 2 minutes max to do.

It was mainly your advice and help when I changed the set that I went to 80w90 gear oil. I wouldn't go back to the chain tech but Gnasher's post about a good expensive dry lube pricked my ears.

I don't like the fling down the side of the tyre.

[Trebus]

I’ve heard chainsaw oil is used by some. Less fling.
Personally I’ve gone round the houses with most methods and am now back to the scottoiler. Gets a bit messy with temperature changes but relatively easily cleaned and keeps the chain in very good condition.

[darrsi]

I’ve heard chainsaw oil is used by some. Less fling.
Personally I’ve gone round the houses with most methods and am now back to the scottoiler. Gets a bit messy with temperature changes but relatively easily cleaned and keeps the chain in very good condition.

I did do some research on chainsaw oil, but was swayed away from it because it is meant to be quite thick and sticky, which means it would attract and hold on to road dirt and debris again.

[Gnasher]

Since changing my C&S last year I have adopted the oil route (gear oil ) at the minute I and doing it every 300 miles as per DID recommendations. But even though I don't swamp it and I wipe it after and gear oil is thicker it still flings off and some ends up on the side of the tyre. After the first 50 or so miles its ok but still annoying.
I used to use putolone chain tech - see pictures, but even that still flung off.

Your over lubing it try to reduce it. 


I wouldn't recommend any spray on lub, for the reasons given as such personally I don't use and haven't used spray on chain lub for over 20yrs.   


These dry lubs I mentioned are from what some owners have told me about and looking at their bike chains.  They're Teflon not silicon as I said earlier having now spoken to the chap.  Now it's very possible they're over egging what they're telling me i.e. how often they use it, how much they use and/or how often the clean the bike. 


This is the stuff he uses and others have followed, now we're talking but 4 bikes here, but all the chains are in good condition and the bikes are clean just keep in mind what I said above.  DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver Dry, Self-Cleaning Chain Lube  I've no idea where you get it, he got it form another chap who we can't no longer get hold of, but he did say it was expensive and they all bought a dozen cans each, so it suggest to me from the US. 


I'll state it again I'm not recommending you use this, or any spray on lub, good old (strained) used engine oil in a SO is the way to go, or just brush on gear oil.  It's way cheaper and better. 

[fazersharp]

Will just stick to gear oil I think
Hope we have not  :hijack  the thread too much.

[gfurm]

Thanks everyone.
Thread kinda drifted sideways but lots of good info on chain lubrication.
Since my rear sprocket is in really good nick I have only bought front one and the chain. Will see how it sits and decide later.
I got pretty good at taking things apart over last couple months so no problem to take the wheel off if need be.
Since I use i for commuting and ride in all weathers I was thinking about getting Scottoiler, but I've spent too much money on it lately, maybe after next payday.

[Salty]

Totally agree with Gnasher "Chains with correctly fitted/adjusted SO will not need adjusting in 1000's of miles. "  First thing I fit to a bike!

[robbo]

Admittedly all my mileage is pleasure riding, but never had a problem using Wurth High Performance dry lube. The original chain got changed at a few hundred short of 24k miles, changed more as a precaution than necessity, as a couple of jaunts were on the cards. If I'm on a trip I'll take it with me giving the chain a quick squirt at the end of the day back at the campsite, or if out for the day, before the bike's pushed back into the garage.
Thank goodness for the centrestand, as usually on my own.

[darrsi]

Admittedly all my mileage is pleasure riding, but never had a problem using Wurth High Performance dry lube. The original chain got changed at a few hundred short of 24k miles, changed more as a precaution than necessity, as a couple of jaunts were on the cards. If I'm on a trip I'll take it with me giving the chain a quick squirt at the end of the day back at the campsite, or if out for the day, before the bike's pushed back into the garage.
Thank goodness for the centrestand, as usually on my own.

I used Wurth lube for decades, i tried others but found them nowhere near as good.
But after cleaning the chain and trying out firstly engine oil, then buying a litre of 80w90 Gear Oil i would not go back to using spray lube again.
You can physically see and feel that all the links are free moving like they are when the chain is straight out of a brand new box.
Another thing that took me a bit of getting used to is the chain has a different tune to it, it's so free moving that it makes a different noise compared to being gunked up with lube. Plus as i said before NOTHING sticks to it, so it looks much cleaner as well, and i don't need to clean it any more, i just add more oil with the brush, then wipe of the excess.
You can't miss any single link either when using the paint brush like i do, and no doubt with the Scott Oiler too. Over time there would always be that one link that would start going stiff simply because the lube never quite got in there as much as it should have, probably with a combination of salted wet roads not helping during winter as well.
If it's not for you then no harm done, but i would certainly recommend that you at least try it for a month or two as a comparison.

[Gnasher]

If you really want to solve the problem and get well over 200k plus from your chain, when properly fitted and cared for, fit one of these: -

https://advrider.com/f/threads/fully-enc...e.1241227/  I've fitted a couple over the years, not this version but similar.

They're not new, fitted to many bikes from almost the start until the late 90's in the latter years these were on smaller commuter type bikes. 

One one the best was fitted to the MZ 2 strokes

https://www.mzridersclub.com/marque-hist...mz_etz250/ Not exactly great looking but they run and run and run. 

[fazersharp]

If you really want to solve the problem and get well over 200k plus from your chain, when properly fitted and cared for, fit one of these: -

https://advrider.com/f/threads/fully-enc...e.1241227/  I've fitted a couple over the years, not this version but similar.

They're not new, fitted to many bikes from almost the start until the late 90's in the latter years these were on smaller commuter type bikes. 

Good for keeping your skirt out of the chain  :lol

[fazersharp]

As you know my riding is dry only and I used the white spray sticky lube and the chain gained tight spots. Perhaps that's my problem - all dry / dusty riding sticking to the chain.Actually why do we even need to lube, they are sealed via x or o rings.