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FZS600 first bike - advice?
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27-01-20, 11:22 AM
If it's a Boxeye don't expect great headlights. If you do any riding at night you'll probably want to upgrade the lights or fit spots. Plenty of threads on here to help.
They were a bit of a "parts-bin-special" but none the worse for it. There's lots you can easily upgrade to make a very good bike even better. 
28-01-20, 02:46 PM
As others have mentioned - check that front sprocket nut. With just 20k on it, it may well still have original chain/sprockets. Check if it's been swapped for thicker nut, check it hasn't fallen off in past and now bodged/welded up onto drive shaft. Anything suspect here and just walk away from the bike - it won't be worth it. Even if all good, if it's original chain you'll likely need to replace that before it hits 30k (£160 ish parts & labour)
Shock will likely be original and in need of replacement soon (budget £100-150 to refurb, or £300 for new Hagon shock). Check rear caliper - often gets clogged up. Many swap it for FZS1000 blue spot caliper which is more reliable (budget £60-100 parts) Check downpipes as bottom underneath. All original ones rust through - even my much later 2003 models wa full of holes by 20k odd (budget £200 parts + labour. Couldbe tricky job if studs on engine snap). Check if brake lines are still orginal rubber ones - if so, budget on replacing with braided lines at this age (£80 parts). Brake fluid is probably long overdue a change anyway. As with any old bike, check everything else, all lights and electrics work, kill switch/side stand cuts out engine. Check for leaking oil on fork seals (£100-150 job). Check oil has no cream goo in it (sight glass on bottom right of engine), or smoke from oil filler cap when rev'd gently - that'll be screwed engine, so walk away. Check all big fat water hoses aren't cracked/split with age - there's no cheap aftermarket silicone hoses available, genuine hoses are about £20-30 each. As it's been sat for whilte, check it rev's well, carbs may need a clean (lots of labour). Check age on tyres (google how to read tyre manufacture date), they could be brittle death traps by now, just budget on £200-250 to replace immediately. Check there's no rust inside the tank. See when coolent was last changed - it could need a thorough flush through now (1h labour). TBH if you're mate actually going to properly service the bike, or just shove it through an MOT alone? If only the latter, I'd plan on taking it straight to a decent garage who will do a thorough job changing all fluids/filters etc (budget £200-300).
28-01-20, 05:54 PM
[size=1em]Thanks Arfa very comprehensive, just what I needed and no, it didnt scare me off. Id already budgeted for new tyres and a rear shock as a minimum plus probably a chain. Ive had a look at the MOT history and its sat unused for the last 7 years since he bought it from a friend. Hes a bit of a hoarder and he has a lot of classic cars and motorbikes.[/size]
[size=1em]He is asking £1100 for it, does that seem reasonable?[/size] [size=1em]Also, can you fit heated grips easily enough? [/size]
30-01-20, 02:46 PM
Hmm £1100, I'd be really bargaining him down. Being sat stationary for 7 years, it's likely to have many niggles that'll need a very thorough service to sort out.
TBH, I'd be looking at a later 2002-2003 model (which are better spec'd) that has been used fairly regularly. Check out this 2003 model on ebay, £1500 from a dealer with 28K on it. Mot history, shows it had a few hundred or thousand miles put on it each year. Mentions a binding back brake, so that'd prob need swapping. Also mention corrosion - probably the downpipes and that rear brake caliper strut. But at least it'll have 3 months warranty on it.... Another similar one here, 2002, 29k on it, £1450. Which again has had a thou miles put on it most years. Extend your budget to £1.5k, get a later model, pick one that been maintained and used regularly, it'll be a much safer bet.
30-01-20, 06:10 PM
To be honest I was only buying it as its my friends bike, and he was happy to keep it for me until I passed my test. Seems like theres a lot of love for the FZS600 on here and another friend had one as his first bike and thought it was ace. Im happy to spend money on the bike, although I know I wont necessarily get it back.
BTW I maybe a new rider, but ive just gone the wrong side of 50, so have a sensible(ish) attitude to learning and welcome any suggestions. Money isnt really an issue, but thought having something like this for my first year riding would be a good idea. Budget wise id be happy to spend 5-6K on a new bike if it was going to be a keeper, however im guessing whats suitable now may not be suitable once Ive got more experience.
30-01-20, 06:55 PM
This one looks like a real bargain at £1050 http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=25891.0
30-01-20, 10:28 PM
There’s not too many Fazers or other bikes at £1000 or less these days that don’t require a bit of work in my experience.
31-01-20, 06:33 PM
(This post was last modified: 31-01-20, 06:34 PM by 74eldiablo.)
If i were in your shoes i'd offer a lowball figure to your mate say £775 of course at 1st he might be a little miffed but sooner or later he will ponder the offer and may say £800 to which your still spending 1k once you get it all tidied up and the major points sorted.
If he doesnt move on price then jog on to the next one.... private sales are better for haggling. Stealerships buy em cheap as a trade in say £5/600 give em a wash and a quick once over, a ride round the block and offer a token warranty but the price is now £15/1600 Go see as many as you can theres plenty around its a buyers market 
01-02-20, 01:03 AM
Agree with what's said. If it's been stood for 7 years it's not worth over a grand.
Paying any more, and you're being charitable. Have a serious conversation, as a mate. He would have trouble offloading it at the price he's asking. 
01-02-20, 08:50 AM
(30-01-20, 06:10 PM)deanflyer link Wrote: To be honest I was only buying it as its my friends bike, and he was happy to keep it for me until I passed my test. Seems like theres a lot of love for the FZS600 on here and another friend had one as his first bike and thought it was ace. Im happy to spend money on the bike, although I know I wont necessarily get it back. "...Seems like there's a lot of love for the FZS600 on here..." Funny that, must be just a coincidence? :lol
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
01-02-20, 06:50 PM
I rechecked the MOT history and he got it MOTd last year, but it only shows 70 miles difference from 2011 until last years MOT which expires on 5th Feb. I'm guessing this doesnt make much difference and comments ref price still stand?
01-02-20, 08:18 PM
How long it's been off the road, matters little if the bike has been looked after. I had mine off the road for almost 5 yrs, stored correctly, started, thoroughly warmed up couple times a year, it still had the same petrol in it, it would start first go every go. When I put it back on the road, I checked the tyre pressure, top up the fuel tank, got it MOTd and away it went.
What matters is it's physical condition, I look after a few that have less than 10k on them, they're as new.
Later
02-02-20, 12:45 AM
I believe that you don't need to have a running engine to pass an MOT?
02-02-20, 11:07 AM
(02-02-20, 12:45 AM)mtread link Wrote: I believe that you don't need to have a running engine to pass an MOT? No, the engine must run for them to check the exhaust system for noise, which would also expose leaks in it and in the fuel the system.
Later
05-02-20, 10:31 AM
From my first hand experience:I bought 1999 Fazer last November. 16k miles on the clock and great condition, no dents or scratches anywhere. According to MOT history it's done 2k miles in last 4 years.I knew right away I'll have to replace downpipes by next MOT (leaking exhaust advisory), 160-180 quid if you can do it yourself.
Suspected I'll need new tyres, turned out correct - 180 for a pair of Michelin Pilot Power CT 2 (Roads were too expensive  ). Chain looks OK but lost fair bit of O-rings - replacement is around 100 quid if doing yourself.Brake lines have no bulges or leaks but I want to replace them anyway - another 100 for set if doing yourself. I accepted that when buying 20 years old bike that hasn't done many miles in last few years I will have to spend at least 500 quid for consumables. But I intend to keep it for a few years and I'm using it daily for commute, so I'm willing to do it all. My take on it is: Buy cheap and spend extra doing stuff yourself or pay more hoping it's been done already - works out the same in price so I'll do it myself and spread the cost over few months as well. Heated grips - I've spent 3 hours on mine because I got distracted with fitting USB charger, checking air filter, checking oil, coolant and generally rummaging around under the tank (it was off for wiring grips so why not . Doing just grips would be under 1 hour I think.(25-01-20, 11:17 AM)Gnasher link Wrote: Their Achilles heel, is the rear shock on all models, as standard they last no more than 8k and the rear caliper. Sorry to dig this up, but I am thinking of buying a used Fazer 600 and see many models with 40k + kilometres on the clock. Do I really need to change the rear suspension shortly after my purchase? Because they are quite costly (300€+), money I do not really wanna spend on such an old bike.
11-12-23, 06:13 PM
Yes. It depends on quite a few factors, but even a well looked after bike. The shock at 15k miles ish will have lost its edge at least, most will have stopped damping in any predictable manner. That said one of the factors is how and where you ride, a past it's best shock my not be noticed by you.
Don't let the shock issue put you off as long as the rest is fine. Shocks come in many guises, most quality AM second hand can be rebuilt and picked up for £100 or so. Factor in a rebuild approx the same cost, will give you a a quality replacement. Often quality AM can snapped up for a little more needing no work at all.
Later
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