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Lighting problem / Electrics expert required!
#21
If fuses are ok the only other common point is the earth. Easily checked by applying an good earth to the black wire on the 4 pin relay and if everything now works you have an earth problem.
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#22
Just checked all the fuses with a multimeter and all good, tried running an earth to the black wire on the 4 pin relay and no change.  :'(
I really dunno, I don't think it can be the relay with the amount of unrelated other things that arent working. There has to be a bad connection in the wiring somewhere or something.
Its not being easy to fix!

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#23
Having looked at the wiring diagram from the downloads section (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=down...ew;down=45), the relays only deal with the high/low beam element.

Given all the faults you have, I would look at the one common thing, the ignition switch cables/connectors.

Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again
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#24
Yeah thats the conclusion we came to. Maybe a common earth fault or a break in something.. going to try to take it to pieces more tomorrow and see how we get on Sad
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#25
(08-07-19, 05:24 PM)BBROWN1664 link Wrote: Having looked at the wiring diagram from the downloads section (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=down...ew;down=45), the relays only deal with the high/low beam element.

Given all the faults you have, I would look at the one common thing, the ignition switch cables/connectors.
I don't think it can be at the ignition because if it was at the ignition he'd be loosing power to the starter relay and having intermittent starting problems but he doesn't have that so the connection at the ignition must be good because the bike is starting everytime. 

(08-07-19, 08:16 AM)StuartGSXR link Wrote: Ok, well the signalling fuse was fine but I changed it anyway, still no change. As the tail lights light up ok when the ignition is switched to park lights I did not think it would be the problem... although even with that fuse out the park lights work. If the only thing they need to work is the fuse and ignition being on it should be simple, but then the brake light is not working either.

I am thinking its got to be one thing that is causing all these issues. as my bike is a daily rider, its not like its stuff that could have built up over time. It had its MOT a couple of weeks ago so the horn and rear lights would have definitely been working then. I am still thinking that it is relay related although I do not get how it could be effecting the rear lights or the horn unless there is some sort of rerturn feed via one of the relays.

I have spoken to an electrics guy at work and he does not think the relays are at fault as they only control the headlights. With the list of things not working he thinks it is more likely there is a major wire in the loom somewhere that supplies all the things that are not working which is not connecting as it should.
This is fun Sad
The park circuit and the ON circuit are completely different so the tail light coming on when the key is in park doesn't rule out a problem on that signaling fuse circuit. When the key is in park power goes from the battery to the ignition then straight to the tail light.

Whereas when the key is in the ON position power goes from the battery to the ignition, then from the ignition it goes to the fuses including the signaling fuse, then from the signaling fuse it goes to the switch on the handlebar, then from the switch it goes back to the ignition, then from the ignition it goes to the tail light. So the park and ON circuit are totally different.

You've proved the signaling fuse connection is good but I don't think you've proved that there's power at the fuse. Have you got a multimeter or a test light and we can check for power at the fuse and then at each point along the circuit after the fuse?
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#26
Thanks for the explanation, really helped Big Grin
I can confirm that yes indeed it is starting perfectly every time as normal and running fine.. just with no lights or horn!

Turned the ignition on today and tested both sides of all the fuses in the fuse box and all had power. On the wiring diagram there is a back up fuse (somewhere!) and a main fuse, I think these are the only 2 I have not checked, not sure they would effect anything.

None of the wiring or connectors checked so far have been furry or corroded. When I bought the bike in Spetember it only had 20,000 miles on it. I have added about another 10,000 miles since then but it is looked after and covered at night etc.
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#27
The backup fuse is in the main fuse box on a 2003, and the main fuse is in the top of the starter relay next to the battery. Do you have 12v on the blue/black wire going to the 4 pin relay when the light switch is in the on position? and do you have 12v on the yellow wire going to the 5 pin relay when the high beam switch is on?
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#28
You may have already done so, have you checked the battery terminals are tight/clean & earth to frame. 
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#29
Ok,
So the bike has been into the workshop at work today to try and work out the problem. They have checked and discounted most of the obvious stuff but then ran out of time.
One theory is it could be the ignition that is causing the problem. They have not been able to fully check it out yet. Are all the blue wires meant to have 12v with the ignition on? Anyone know where there is a colour wiring diagram?
And should the worst come to the worst, anyone know of a used Foxeye lock set for sale? I know they are like hens teeth as they have more connectors than the boxeye ignition.
Thanks again folks.
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#30
Did you check for 12v on the two wires in my post above? Colour wiring diagram in the Haynes manual.
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#31
A bit risky. You could blow something up if you do it wrong so do it at your own risk but you could bypass the ignition and if the lights work when the ignition is bypassed you know the problem is in the ignition. There's two connectors going to the ignition, a two pin connector and a six pin connector. If you follow the wire off the back of the ignition you will find the two connectors. They're in the junction box under the tank. You'll have to take the front bolt out of the tank and tilt it up out of the way.

The two pin connector will have a red wire and a brown/blue wire.
The six pin will have a black, blue/red, brown/red, blue/yellow, blue
Disconnect both connectors.
On the loom side of the two pin connector join red to brown/blue.
The headlight, brake light, horn should now work. If they do work you know the fault must be in the ignition. If they still don't work the fault is after the ignition.
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#32
Thanks for that, I will give that a go at work tomorrow. Whats the worst that can happen! :rolleyes
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#33
(09-07-19, 05:42 PM)Grib link Wrote: Did you check for 12v on the two wires in my post above? Colour wiring diagram in the Haynes manual.
They did check the relays in the workshop today, I am assuming the outcome wasn't bad as they did not say there was an issue.
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#34
(09-07-19, 07:41 PM)StuartGSXR link Wrote: Thanks for that, I will give that a go at work tomorrow. Whats the worst that can happen! :rolleyes
You could short something and blow it up or start an electrical fire and burn the bike and your work down :lol
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#35
Just as a precaution before you jump the red to brown/blue take out the ignition fuse so that power doesn't go to the ignitor. That way all you're powering when you jump it is the lights, horn etc.
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#36
Well I looped the wire, neutral light came on..still no horn or lights. Sad Does the 6 pin block not give power to any circuits? Does looping the 2 pin connector give power to all circuits?

Edit : I didnt disconnect the 6 pin connector... doh back I go
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#37
Did not get time to come back on this as I was doing the 48000 mile service on my sons Fazer.
Since the earth on the relay did not work and reading through what you seem to have done quickest and easiest way to check the section on the ignition switch is in the box under the tank.
As Dude says locate the connectors to the ignition, but without disconnecting anything the take the 6 way connector with the five wires and loop the blue/red and the blue with a piece of stiff wire (not too thick) in the back of the back of the connector. Turn on the ignition, turn on the lights. If this section of the ignition is faulty this will bring on the lights, if not the fault is elsewhere
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#38
Colour wiring diagram


Attached Files
.pdf   02-03 FZS600 colour wiring diagram.pdf (Size: 552.03 KB / Downloads: 8)
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#39
Ok, tried unplugging both connectors and looping the 2 pin on the loom side. Neutral light came on but no horn or headlights.Tried to loop the 2 wires on the 6 / 5 pin plug but not sure my wire was thin enough to connect ok but no apparent change either.
Any electrics wizards near Brighton?! lol. I dont get it.
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#40
Do you have a meter? If so check for 12v on the following on same 6 way 5 pin plug.Switch Ignition on and check for 12v on the Brown/red and the brown/blue by putting the probe into the back of the connector

If you get 12v on both of those then put the probe on the blue and turn the light switch on right handlebar to park that should supply 12v to the blue wire, now check the Blue/red also as it gets its 12v from the Blue/red via the ignition switch

If you get  12v on the Brown/red and Brown/Blue but not on the Blue or Blue/red the problem is in the light switch.
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