Yeah, truth is it still looks like oil and is still runny, so it's no different to look at, but the figures say it's heavier than normal should stick around a little better.
Always apply after a ride when the chain's still warm.
[/quote] :thumbup
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Here it is. less than 24 hours after ordering. Good service so far from Bike Torque Racing. In place of the tin of gunge lube I asked for an extra link so if I get it wrong I have another chance.
Any know the thread size on the rear sprocket nuts as I am going to get some stainless ones. I think the socket fit is 14mm
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
01-05-19, 01:29 PM (This post was last modified: 01-05-19, 01:32 PM by fazersharp.)
(01-05-19, 12:58 PM)robbo link Wrote: Got mine from Racebolt UK on the bay.£21.60 delivered.
You know what I had them in my basket and thought I would double check here for new posts, went back and brought them, thanks. £24 now.
I did notice that some people were selling stainless steel "rear sprocket nuts" but they were just normal s/s flange nuts. And the difference is - from what I can see that the nut on a "proper " nut is taller and covers all of the stud and also the flange is thicker. I think using a shorter nut and leaving stud sticking out looks crap. Also the finish on the cheap normal ones looks cheap Chinese.
Stupid price for 6 nuts but the sprocket is silver so don't want to re fit my manky 21 year old nuts back
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
01-05-19, 01:40 PM (This post was last modified: 01-05-19, 01:43 PM by fazersharp.)
Got this lube from a local motor factors thought the smaller bottle will still last me years. Also got a small squeeze source bottle to apply to the chain. £1.09p
The oil says EP90 and GL-5 - so is that thicker than 80-90 Gl-4
My thumb is double jointed by the way
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Useful / interesting.
"GL-5 has a lower coefficient of friction due to the higher concentration of EP additives over GL-4, and thus synchros can not engage as effectively."
The the higher concentration of EP additives is not going to harm my o (x) rings is it ?
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Used to have a problem sourcing GL5 when I had a GS1150, as that is the specified grade for the gearbox and diff. Strangely enough the only stockist near me was a Honda dealer.
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
Worth buying, as they are only around a pound more expensive than standard code is JTF513RB
If you do go the DID chain route buy from a reputable source as there are fakes cropping up and are difficult to tell apart until they break of are worn out in 2000 mile.
I have used AFAM, DID, Regina and Izumi chains over the last 40odd years without any issues. I have also used JT sprockets, Ognibene sprockets and AFAM sprockets without issues.
Generally I change the front sprocket every 8 to 10000miles and chains and rear sprockets last around the 40000 mile mark, but then I also have a Scotoiler fitted which helps.
I presently have a DID HD O Ring on the 1000 which has 23000 miles on it and replaced the front sprocket at the 10 and 20000 mile mark
Last chain I fitted to the 600 was Yamaha OEM as I got a NOS kit for £120.
(01-05-19, 09:44 PM)unfazed link Wrote: If you do go the DID chain route buy from a reputable source as there are fakes cropping up and are difficult to tell apart until they break of are worn out in 2000 mile.
Its in my post a couple of posts back #103 with a picture
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
02-05-19, 10:50 AM (This post was last modified: 02-05-19, 11:04 AM by fazersharp.)
This may sound a step too far but - here we go.
For chain lube I will be using gear oil but I have seen that some is a charcoal/lead colour and I have a nice gold chain. I have an unopened bottle of Carlube EP90 GL-5 that I might take back and swap but need to make sure I am buying a nice golden oil and not one that looks like it has been in a tractor for 20 years
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
(02-05-19, 10:50 AM)fazersharp link Wrote: This may sound a step too far but - here we go.
For chain lube I will be using gear oil but I have seen that some is a charcoal/lead colour and I have a nice gold chain. I have an unopened bottle of Carlube EP90 GL-5 that I might take back and swap but need to make sure I am buying a nice golden oil and not one that looks like it has been in a tractor for 20 years
Doubt you'll notice the oil once it's on.
You should try some oil on that thumb Sharpie :lol
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
02-05-19, 01:32 PM (This post was last modified: 02-05-19, 02:12 PM by fazersharp.)
(02-05-19, 12:39 PM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=fazersharp link=topic=25205.msg297349#msg297349 date=1556790602]
This may sound a step too far but - here we go.
For chain lube I will be using gear oil but I have seen that some is a charcoal/lead colour and I have a nice gold chain. I have an unopened bottle of Carlube EP90 GL-5 that I might take back and swap but need to make sure I am buying a nice golden oil and not one that looks like it has been in a tractor for 20 years
Doubt you'll notice the oil once it's on.
You should try some oil on that thumb Sharpie :lol
[/quote]
Manley working hands - what can I say.
So what about my question earlier.
"GL-5 has a lower coefficient of friction due to the higher concentration of EP additives over GL-4, and thus synchros can not engage as effectively."
The the higher concentration of EP additives is not going to harm my o (x) rings is it ?
I have found the data sheet for it
9.1. Information on basic physical and chemical properties Appearance Clear liquid. Colour Brown.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
It would have been interesting to see the difference in torque needed.
You can’t judge the degree of oxidation by looking at how many bubbles are in the oil.
Oil getting flung off the gears onto the casings is a useful way to transfer heat and get any hardened metal lost from the gears out of harm’s way to the bottom of the sump.
But I guess in some situations that GL6 may be ideal. :lol
(02-05-19, 06:08 PM)Fazerider link Wrote: Oil getting flung off the gears onto the casings is a useful way to transfer heat and get any hardened metal lost from the gears out of harm’s way to the bottom of the sump.
Yep been doing some reading on gear oil and heat transfer was a useful property. But my thought was for bike chains
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
