New Chain Time = Sprockets too ?

[bandit]

[quote author=bandit link=topic=25205.msg297142#msg297142 date=1556473050]
I prefer this one for £13 maybe because it looks like the Yam one,


[size=78%]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600...SwcCJckQf2[/size]

I would buy a chain kit with the normal rear sprocket & maybe steel front then buy my choice of rubber shocked front sprocket if I couldn't buy as a kit.

That was exactly my thought too. I like the look of that one in your link. I am sure that if it is not in a kit they will put one together for me. So chain - normal rear and the yam - looking front. But I do like the look of those silent rear ones as they have prrredy looking slots cut out and in silver then I could get some stainless steel nuts to go with.
[/quote]


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600...Sw0vJcQIxj


Just need a chain tool but as you say they may do a deal.

[Fazerider]

Has anyone had any issues in removing the nuts on the rear sprocket. I don't want to end up with exhaust nut/stud - gate  :lol
I have heard on here about problems with brake disk nuts but what about the sprocket nuts.

It’s steel on steel rather than steel into alloy like the brake discs and I never had a problem shifting the rear sprocket, but mine has been changed every 2 to 4 years. Yours on the other hand, if it’s been undisturbed for a couple of decades, might put up some resistance. I’d use a 6-sided socket as a precaution against rounding off.

[darrsi]

[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=25205.msg297150#msg297150 date=1556482496]
Has anyone had any issues in removing the nuts on the rear sprocket. I don't want to end up with exhaust nut/stud - gate  :lol
I have heard on here about problems with brake disk nuts but what about the sprocket nuts.

It’s steel on steel rather than steel into alloy like the brake discs and I never had a problem shifting the rear sprocket, but mine has been changed every 2 to 4 years. Yours on the other hand, if it’s been undisturbed for a couple of decades, might put up some resistance. I’d use a 6-sided socket as a precaution against rounding off.
[/quote]


:agree  Yeah, +1 for anything that needs that extra bit of oomph by using a 6 sided socket. As you are no doubt well aware there are some nuts, bolts and screws on these bikes that can seem very soft so what should be a simple straightforward job can immediately go bad on you.  :'(

[size=1em]My mechanic did have trouble years ago with my front sprocket more or less welding itself on, and had to use heat to get it off, and as mentioned being an original after 20 odd years untouched it would be Loctited on so will no doubt also give you something to think about as well.[/size]

[robbo]

+1  if in doubt, use 6 sided.

[fazersharp]

Thanks for the 6 sided tip.
So I gets out my Halfords Advanced Professional 1/2 inch socket set out and its all 12point
I also have the same Advanced Professional set but in 1/4inch but they are all 6 point. Whats that all about :rolleyes
Would my 1/4 drive be up to the job, I do have a 1/4 inch to 1/2inch adapter then I can use my 1/2inch wrench

[darrsi]

Thanks for the 6 sided tip.
So I gets out my Halfords Advanced Professional 1/2 inch socket set out and its all 12point
I also have the same Advanced Professional set but in 1/4inch but they are all 6 point. Whats that all about :rolleyes
Would my 1/4 drive be up to the job, I do have a 1/4 inch to 1/2inch adapter then I can use my 1/2inch wrench

It’s not ideal, but only one way to find out  mash

[fazersharp]

[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=25205.msg297166#msg297166 date=1556531766]
Thanks for the 6 sided tip.
So I gets out my Halfords Advanced Professional 1/2 inch socket set out and its all 12point
I also have the same Advanced Professional set but in 1/4inch but they are all 6 point. Whats that all about :rolleyes
Would my 1/4 drive be up to the job, I do have a 1/4 inch to 1/2inch adapter then I can use my 1/2inch wrench

It’s not ideal, but only one way to find out  mash
[/quote]I have decided to invest in some 6 sided sockets in 1/2inch before I do the job. I have started a post on the general section as It may help others better there.

[fazersharp]

Just had a look at the swing arm nut. Will a normal socket get in there as it looks very tight between the nut and the wall of the hole. And what size socket do I need for it.
Also what size socket do I need for the front sprocket nut.

[robbo]

For general bike maintenance I've always used 3/8" drive sockets or 1/4" for anything a bit dainty. Mind you the front sprocket nut will be 1/2" drive on a breaker bar and no doubt a length of tube over the bar to increase leverage. A length of 3x2 timber wrapped in some cloths through the back wheel usually does the trick. I'll be in the garage later and let you know the socket size.

[fazersharp]

For general bike maintenance I've always used 3/8" drive sockets or 1/4" for anything a bit dainty. Mind you the front sprocket nut will be 1/2" drive on a breaker bar and no doubt a length of tube over the bar to increase leverage. A length of 3x2 timber wrapped in some cloths through the back wheel usually does the trick. I'll be in the garage later and let you know the socket size.

Thanks. I was hoping to be able to use a normal 1/2inch socket ratchet - all-be-it with a bar over it.
So maybe I should invest in a breaker bar. This one worth getting do you think
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-cra...r-24/1186k

Or this.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/pro77-1-...eaker-bar/

[robbo]

Had a quick search on the forum in case 600 and 1000 front sprocket nuts are different. Looks like yours requires a 32mm socket and make sure the nut is the 12mm thick one, if not it should be changed. Also renew the tab washer, personally I'd use genuine Yamaha, as the tabs on some aftermarket ones are known to break as soon as they're bent over.

[robbo]

Machine Mart ones cheaper. Clarke stuff is ok. What part of the country are you in, I could lend you all this stuff if you're a reasonable distance.

[fazersharp]

Had a quick search on the forum in case 600 and 1000 front sprocket nuts are different. Looks like yours requires a 32mm socket and make sure the nut is the 12mm thick one, if not it should be changed. Also renew the tab washer, personally I'd use genuine Yamaha, as the tabs on some aftermarket ones are known to break as soon as they're bent over.

Yep I know about the nut issue and have already brought the upgraded one a couple of years ago. I have just put the verniers across it and its 31.87mm but I forgot to measure the old 9mm one when I had the cover off a few mins ago

[fazersharp]

Machine Mart ones cheaper. Clarke stuff is ok. What part of the country are you in, I could lend you all this stuff if you're a reasonable distance.

Thanks for I am in the Midlands, bit too far.Just noticed that the machine mart clarke breaker is 18inch but the screwfix hilka one is 24inch

[bandit]

If you can wait get individual sockets & breaker bar like silverline off Ebay, make sure you get the right size drive for the 32mm front sprocket nut as direct to the breaker without adaptor is better. Are you still going to remove the swing arm then?. 

[fazersharp]

Had the cover off for some pictures and the metal looks fine to me but the plastic damper is really breaking up - bits of it stuck in the lube gunge.

[fazersharp]

If you can wait get individual sockets & breaker bar like silverline off Ebay, make sure you get the right size drive for the 32mm front sprocket nut as direct to the breaker without adaptor is better. Are you still going to remove the swing arm then?. 

Yes I will make sure its a 1/2 inch socket direct to the breaker. I will have a look at ebay but sometimes the extra cost of heavy item post makes it the same as getting from my local screfix.

I have just spoken to Bike Tourque Racing and they tell me that all of their chains - at least D.I.D anyway are supplied open ended with the relevant joining link so looks like I can do it all without taking off the swing arm but I cant help thinking I should anyway to re grease it after 21 years - 22k dry mileage 

Also they can no longer get the Ognibene chain joining tool but instead it will be a Afram one

[bandit]

There is a video on how to use the afram onehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skX2GhrB2Oc , the front sprocket is a bit hooked but as your going to replace front/rear & chain all's good, just make sure before you remove anything swing arm/ chain or sprockets get the front sprocket nut undone replace new front sprocket & washer/nut before removing old chain/rear wheel, there are a couple of ways to use the chain to remove the stubborn nut if you have never done it before.     

[fazersharp]

Brilliant thanks.

[fazersharp]

Also going to need some loctite 620 for the front sprok