28-04-19, 10:58 AM (This post was last modified: 28-04-19, 11:00 AM by darrsi.)
(27-04-19, 10:12 PM)celticbiker link Wrote: [quote author=darrsi link=topic=25205.msg297051#msg297051 date=1556373986]
[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=25205.msg297049#msg297049 date=1556373168]
40k miles would last me 40 years. Where do you get yours from. I see renthals £11 front £43 rear (hard anodised )
That's what i mean, you're not racing it and you do minimal mileage so a standard kit will be just fine for your bike. D.I.D. are a well known tried and tested company for chains so they're not gonna lose their reputation by pairing them up with crappy sprockets.
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Got to disagree with that. The sets you buy usually come with afam sprockets and they wear very quickly and destroy the chain in the process I doubled my chain life by pairing it with quality sprockets.
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They can't be that bad, and as mentioned you push your bike harder than most people so wear and tear is inevitably going to seem that much quicker than normal to you.
But after a quick look, most of the kits i've seen have JT sprocket sets with the chain, so i think it's just a matter of shopping about, but i never found any other negative comments about AFAM sprockets either, which are classed as a race brand, in fact they were all positive.
For the average rider as long as the chain is maintained by being correctly lubed, tightened and is on straight then it should last a very long time, but as you could probably imagine not all of these things are adhered to by some owners. Even a brand new chain can go bad extremely quickly if left neglected out in the elements.
Another thing to mention, i spent decades using proper spray chain lube thinking it was the best thing since sliced bread, yet after trialing using engine oil instead put on with a paint brush i can really see and feel that the chain is in a much better condition than it ever was than when it was gunged up with lube.
Nothing sticks to it any more so it looks cleaner for starters and when the oil is very quickly applied with the paint brush on a warm chain i can immediately see that every single link is getting a good covering, whereas i can now understand that it would be fairly easy to miss just one link using the spray lube which in turn can then become that weakest link that you suddenly feel through your footpeg further down the line.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(28-04-19, 10:50 AM)Fazerider link Wrote: [quote author=celticbiker link=topic=25205.msg297081#msg297081 date=1556399563]
… The sets you buy usually come with afam sprockets…
I guess things have changed. I’ve not bought an aftermarket C&S set for ages (the last 2 have been genuine Yamaha and I get 40k from them thanks to the oiler), but the sprockets always used to be JT.
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I must look into getting a Scottoiler to be honest, it really doesn't bother me using the brush method at all, in fact i like to see exactly what's going on, but it would make more sense to do it automatically.
I've started using a thicker grade gear oil, is that still okay to use with these gadgets?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Don't think the chain is endless when fitting it just means it's supplied with a rivet link only instead of a split link option, so hence the endless in the description. [img alt=Smile]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/img]
(28-04-19, 11:18 AM)bandit link Wrote: Don't think the chain is endless when fitting it just means it's supplied with a rivet link only instead of a split link option, so hence the endless in the description. [img alt=Smile]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/img]
That has thrown me now.
Here are the 2 options in busters one described as "Endless" and the other as "Open Chain with Rivet link". https://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en...600:21149/
But both have a drop down list with "Accessories" which list separately either a hollow rivet or a solid rivet.
Screenshot attached
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
(28-04-19, 11:54 AM)fazersharp link Wrote: [quote author=bandit link=topic=25205.msg297100#msg297100 date=1556446706]
Don't think the chain is endless when fitting it just means it's supplied with a rivet link only instead of a split link option, so hence the endless in the description. [img alt=Smile]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/img]
That has thrown me now.
Here are the 2 options in busters one described as "Endless" and the other as "Open Chain with Rivet link". https://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en...600:21149/
But both have a drop down list with "Accessories" which list separately either a hollow rivet or a solid rivet.
Screenshot attached
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That is a conundrum :lol
It says "endless" so you would think it was exactly that, but maybe they offer the links in case you alter the size of your sprockets later on, and are just covering all options?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Yes I am the same as that fella. I don't mind taking off the swing arm as it will give me an excuse to re-grease it -- otherwise I wont be bothering to do so.
I will look into a tool to do a join so if not too much cost but I doubt I will be using it again anytime soon. Also I don't trust myself that I wont end up with an over tight join and then I am back in the same position where I started with a tight link, i always have to give things an extra stupid push.
And then there is the "is it safe" in the back of my mind - just like the fella on the link. But as he says I will just have to get over it and as pointed out far more powerful bikes get on just fine.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Can't remember the exact reasoning, but i've read on here many times not to use an "extra" or "super" heavy weight chain on these bikes.
After reading that link i posted earlier it could just be that it's totally unnecessary and a bit overkill for this size of bike i s'pose?
That aside, that's a pretty good deal, as that package has got everything you need by the looks of it.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Thanks
I am thinking about that quiet F sprocket in your ebay link.
The link with the tool is useful and I do already own some digital vernier gauges. But it refers to an endless chain removal but replaced with a riveted chain.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Can't remember the exact reasoning, but i've read on here many times not to use an "extra" or "super" heavy weight chain on these bikes.
After reading that link i posted earlier it could just be that it's totally unnecessary and a bit overkill for this size of bike i s'pose?
That aside, that's a pretty good deal, as that package has got everything you need by the looks of it.
[/quote]I will do some research on the tool that comes with it.
But a 530 chain is the OEM for the bike.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(28-04-19, 11:14 AM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=Fazerider link=topic=25205.msg297097#msg297097 date=1556445031]
[quote author=celticbiker link=topic=25205.msg297081#msg297081 date=1556399563]
… The sets you buy usually come with afam sprockets…
I guess things have changed. I’ve not bought an aftermarket C&S set for ages (the last 2 have been genuine Yamaha and I get 40k from them thanks to the oiler), but the sprockets always used to be JT.
[/quote]
I must look into getting a Scottoiler to be honest, it really doesn't bother me using the brush method at all, in fact i like to see exactly what's going on, but it would make more sense to do it automatically.
I've started using a thicker grade gear oil, is that still okay to use with these gadgets?
[/quote]
I use cheap car engine oil, film strength is easily sufficient and it’s less sticky so doesn’t hang on to grit. Easy to prime too, on the occasions when I forget to refill and run the reservoir dry.
I’d expect gear oil to work OK too, what ever you choose will take a bit of fiddling with the flow rate. Scottoil is thicker and stickier than 10W40… probably not very different to the gear oil you’re using.
The thing with D.I.D not wanting to pair up with "cheese" sprockets is that D.I.D don't do the pairings - its the sellers and to be especially careful with ebay sellers.It seems that JT sprockets are the most used ones in the pairings. Don't think I need to go down the Renthals route and from what I can find the rear anodised wears quicker that a JT steel one, with the idea being that the Renthal one is lighter ( by about a pie )
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
(28-04-19, 12:19 PM)darrsi link Wrote: I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.
That is pricecly why I want an Endless chain - if it exists.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
(28-04-19, 12:25 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: [quote author=darrsi link=topic=25205.msg297111#msg297111 date=1556450399]
I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.
That is pricecly why I want an Endless chain - if it exists.
[/quote]
It will be endless, once the riveted link is in place. :rollin
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(28-04-19, 10:58 AM)darrsi link Wrote: Another thing to mention, i spent decades using proper spray chain lube thinking it was the best thing since sliced bread, yet after trialing using engine oil instead put on with a paint brush i can really see and feel that the chain is in a much better condition than it ever was than when it was gunged up with lube.
Nothing sticks to it any more so it looks cleaner for starters and when the oil is very quickly applied with the paint brush on a warm chain i can immediately see that every single link is getting a good covering, whereas i can now understand that it would be fairly easy to miss just one link using the spray lube which in turn can then become that weakest link that you suddenly feel through your footpeg further down the line.
It was after reading you previous posts about this that I have decided to go down the same route with my new chain. I Have used can lube for 18 years. My riding is only in the dry = dust and grit in the air. Looking at the condition of my rear sprocket I should not be having a tight spot or wear on a chain with 22k miles..
But because it is white I can see where it is going
My lube here
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
(28-04-19, 12:19 PM)darrsi link Wrote: I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.
Yes, you can overtighten the link if you spread the pin too hard. I use vernier calipers, tighten the tool slowly and stop once the rivet link is the same width as the other links. Easy.
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