What have you done to your FZS600 bike today

[fazersharp]

In the interest of science I've just taken some pics of the comparison between original lenses and smoked ones.
The smoked ones have orange bulbs and in my opinion make the bike look a little nicer.
Can I get any credit for not bastardising her too much by fitting LED indicators?


Orange on the left, smoked on the right.

Orange look easier to see - there might be a brighter centre on the smoked but the whole of the orange is "glowing" more. As your bike is silver IMO it would of looked better with clear lenses with orange bulbs. 

[Middy2000]

I did order clear but then had a last minute change of heart & got smoked.

[psyfi_1]

rear brake strip down rebuild and bleed

[His Dudeness]

I think the original one looks better :lol

[tommyardin]

[quote author=Middy2000 link=topic=17296.msg292452#msg292452 date=1550077471]
In the interest of science I've just taken some pics of the comparison between original lenses and smoked ones.
The smoked ones have orange bulbs and in my opinion make the bike look a little nicer.
Can I get any credit for not bastardising her too much by fitting LED indicators?


Orange on the left, smoked on the right.

Orange look easier to see - there might be a brighter centre on the smoked but the whole of the orange is "glowing" more. As your bike is silver IMO it would of looked better with clear lenses with orange bulbs.
[/quote]


I second the clear lens with orange bulbs. The smoked one i generally dimmer than the orange one

[darrsi]

So i wasn’t far off then, i can certainly understand the cosmetic look with the smoked lenses but the indicators are there to do an important job in my opinion so the brighter the better wherever possible for me, the same with all lights on the bike.

[74eldiablo]

Today i have mostly been foccin buying for my bike:
a new polski bellypanwezmoto full braided race lines
alloy headlamp brackets to fit my raptor 2 aftermarket headlight fairinggold paint for the forks
lubberly anodised aluminuim and lubber grips
knock off titanium pazzo leversgold drag barsnew anodised handlebar clamps15w fork oil and a date with the sandblaster/powdercoater/sprayer to do the swingarm black, wheel centres gloss black and rims polished up

Whilst not buying cheap hop up parts from asia, i've been changing

new air filter
new iridium sparksbled the horrible brown stuff  and refilled with lovely green/yellow coolantoil & filter
and
comtemplating an R7 seat unit,
some new handlebar mirrors (but the adaptors cost more than the mirrors) go figure !!
already in the process of making a cardboard template for the clocks out of aluminium to make a speedo bracket.
i'm 50/50 about selling the original fazer fairing, but as the headlight was barry white and it was scratched and cracked to chuff, it seems the £100 given to me for it will buy most of these new parts and give the foccer a new faze of life... FZS600 ver 2.0


i'll get some photos up when im not driving the wife 240km for a foccin haircut, going across the border into belarus for cheap diesel, alcohol and cigs.70 litres of diesel about £30-3280 cigarettes - 20p per packet
1 litre of vodka £3.10p

just need this cold weather to foc off so i can get to work in the garage (coldest was -17
adios amigos

[redmandan]

Gonna have a go at fitting the new braided brake lines tomorrow. Got some new DOT 4 and cobra lines. I don’t have a bleeding kit but I do have a small oil suction kit for changing oil on small engines via the dipstick hole and I reckon I can get it to work.

I’m gonna tear down and rebuild the callipers as well at the same time. Never done this before but I’m hoping it will be a fairly straightforward job. I’ve heard the bleed nipple is easy to snap off but any other tips from the seasoned foccers will be well received. I’ll do the front and if it goes well I’ll also do the rear.

[bandit]

This for caliper rebuild :
http://www.redrubbergrease.com/tips-how-...d-kit.html

& for bleeding brakes, better to use clear tubing:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5nuh39VAu8
  EGood luck hope this helps.

[redmandan]

Cheers for the tips Bandit.


I like Delboy's garage on youtube, top stuff.


Had a go at the front lines today. It goes pretty slowly with me as I like to take my time and read the service manual 20 times as I'm doing the job. Didn't have time to take the calipers to bits, I might do that after this season as I will naturally have to do the brake fluid again.


piccies


I kept the 2 into 1 bracket from the original lines on the bike as the bracket that attaches them to the bike also holds the speed sensor wire and the bracket is a part of the attachment.


Bleeding the lines didn't go very well. The manual says to leave it for a while to let the air bubbles all rise to the reservoir. The brakes do go on but I can pull the lever all the way back to the handlebar. Manual says to wait a while to let the bubbles rise to the reservoir. There's plenty of vids out there which I will watch for pointers but if anyone has some bike specific help it would be much appreciated.

[bandit]

With the brake lever pulled in until it stops as in your pic, tie it back in that position overnight this will allow the air to rise into the res.


Only bleed one line at a time once you have fluid coming out of each bleed nipple.

This can be repeated when you have finally bleed the brakes as well, same with the rear brake pedal tied down with added weight.

[darrsi]

Just had a week off work and using up my holiday, and it was a nice day yesterday, so i sat outside in the sun for a few hours cleaning up all my brake calipers and regreasing the pots after the winter period. I try and do all the calipers before and after winter to keep them in good order.


Then i cleaned off the normal engine oil i've been using on the chain, and relubed it with 90w gear oil instead. Cleaned all the shite off the rear sprocket as well, which is normally pretty dirty from everyday use.
After that i gave the whole bike a quick wash and it now looks all respectable again, until it rains again anyway.


Was just having a good look around the internet as i used up my last brake cleaner spray, and i'm getting low on red rubber grease.
Really odd that they charge about £5.40 for 70g of RRG, but i just paid £9.39 for 500g, which will probably outlast the bike and me, but made total sense to buy that instead.


Found a good deal on Brake Cleaner Spray though:
[size=1em]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-X-POLYGARD-CLUTCH-or-BRAKE-CLEANER-LARGE-600ML-CANS-SPECIAL-OFFER-X-6/321874803358?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649[/size]


Red Rubber Grease:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REVOL-RED-RUB...2749.l2649

[His Dudeness]

Just had a week off work and using up my holiday, and it was a nice day yesterday, so i sat outside in the sun for a few hours cleaning up all my brake calipers and regreasing the pots after the winter period. I try and do all the calipers before and after winter to keep them in good order.


Then i cleaned off the normal engine oil i've been using on the chain, and relubed it with 90w gear oil instead. Cleaned all the shite off the rear sprocket as well, which is normally pretty dirty from everyday use.
After that i gave the whole bike a quick wash and it now looks all respectable again, until it rains again anyway.


Was just having a good look around the internet as i used up my last brake cleaner spray, and i'm getting low on red rubber grease.
Really odd that they charge about £5.40 for 70g of RRG, but i just paid £9.39 for 500g, which will probably outlast the bike and me, but made total sense to buy that instead.


Found a good deal on Brake Cleaner Spray though:
[size=1em]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-X-POLYGARD-CLUTCH-or-BRAKE-CLEANER-LARGE-600ML-CANS-SPECIAL-OFFER-X-6/321874803358?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649[/size]


Red Rubber Grease:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REVOL-RED-RUB...2749.l2649

Let us know how you get on with the gear oil I think it's great stuff but it depends on the type of riding you do. If you do mostly low speed urban riding, you can apply the gear oil once a week and you're sorted. If you do high speed motorway riding or big distances in one go the gear oil isn't practical because you would need to be applying it after ever trip.

[Dynspud]

Like I do, stick the oil in a Scottolier 

[His Dudeness]

Like I do, stick the oil in a Scottolier 

Good idea Any mess from it with the gear oil? They're blood expensive aren't they? If I could find a cheap used one I'd give it a go

[Dynspud]

The genuine Scottoiler oil seemed to make far more of a mess as it was much stickier and would plaster itself all over the place and then trap all the dirt & dust.
The gear oil, being a bit less viscous and definitely not as sticky tends to fling of without adhering to things to much.
It also cleans off a lot easier as well.

[darrsi]

The genuine Scottoiler oil seemed to make far more of a mess as it was much stickier and would plaster itself all over the place and then trap all the dirt & dust.
The gear oil, being a bit less viscous and definitely not as sticky tends to fling of without adhering to things to much.
It also cleans off a lot easier as well.

Does it really oil every link both sides efficiently though?
As in EVERY link, it only takes one to be missed to ruin a chain?

[Dynspud]

Mine's got the dual chain feeder on the end of the pipe which does both sides equally, all the time.
It does make a difference but you also use more oil, although that's not a bad thing I guess.

[darrsi]

Mine's got the dual chain feeder on the end of the pipe which does both sides equally, all the time.
It does make a difference but you also use more oil, although that's not a bad thing I guess.

And what about when you park the bike overnight, does it drip oil from the chain?

[Dynspud]

Nope.
Without engine running and the vacuum opening the oil valve inside the Scottoiler reservoir, all oil gets held in the pipe.