I would use Lithium multi-purpose grease as used on the wheel bearings/axle as Yamaha advise as the bearings/rota are connected & mixing two different types may affect the performance of both if mixed, unless you strip the wheel down to clean the bearings out then use just one type only.
(23-12-18, 03:24 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: I still don't know which one to use, I like the RG2 one because it looks like strawberry jam. The Lith-moly one is dark grey and looks dirty.
Interesting though about using Moly grease on high speed bearings being too slippery meaning the rolling bearing does not rotate but slips across the surface causing a flat sopt.
Also I read that when talking about "high speed" its something like 10,000 rmp -dont think even Tommy's Fazer wheel bearings go that fast :lol
Dark and dirty is the way to go. :thumbup
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(23-12-18, 04:11 PM)bandit link Wrote: I would use Lithium multi-purpose grease as used on the wheel bearings/axle as Yamaha advise as the bearings/rota are connected & mixing two different types may affect the performance of both if mixed, unless you strip the wheel down to clean the bearings out then use just one type only. But I don't have plain Lithium grease as the one I have got is Lith-moly.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
It says use lithium based grease not lithium grease so what you have should do fine. I used this stuff just because that's all I had and there was no problems
(23-12-18, 07:12 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: It says use lithium based grease not lithium grease so what you have should do fine. I used this stuff just because that's all I had and there was no problems
![[Image: s-l1600.jpg]](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/xEsAAOSw-dBTtBLO/s-l1600.jpg) So yours says Moly grease/ lithium based and mine says Lithium- moly grease, sounds the same but mine is also calling itself CV -constant velocity grease.
I know it probably does not matter that much what I put in there.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
23-12-18, 09:04 PM
(This post was last modified: 23-12-18, 09:49 PM by bandit.)
(23-12-18, 07:23 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: [quote author=His Dudeness link=topic=24814.msg289467#msg289467 date=1545588729]
It says use lithium based grease not lithium grease so what you have should do fine. I used this stuff just because that's all I had and there was no problems
![[Image: s-l1600.jpg]](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/xEsAAOSw-dBTtBLO/s-l1600.jpg) So yours says Moly grease/ lithium based and mine says Lithium- moly grease, sounds the same but mine is also calling itself CV -constant velocity grease.
I know it probably does not matter that much what I put in there.
[/quote]
Molybenum disulphide is a additive added to lithium based grease for extreme pressure/load.
https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-multi-...lsrc=aw.ds
Same thing but more £
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine...ease-500g#
Yep just general multipurpose grease with no fancy stuff in it is what you want. But at the end of the day it's not a critical part, there's no load going through it, all you're doing is stopping the plastic bit squeeking so I think a small dab of nearly any grease that you've got on the shelf will do the job fine.
If you want to get fancy. The manual shows the symbol LS next to the speedo drive so this is what Yamaha recommend using https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/detai...earch&d=31|31&ls=yamaha-motor-company&dealernumber=
(23-12-18, 10:06 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote:
If you want to get fancy. The manual shows the symbol LS next to the speedo drive so this is what Yamaha recommend using https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/detai...earch&d=31|31&ls=yamaha-motor-company&dealernumber=
Molybedenum is a general slip agent that is often added to car engine oils, they say it makes oil more slippery without changing the viscocity of the oil. That’s why they (not sure who they are) say you should not use oils with this additive in vehicles with wet clutches.
I have heard others say I have used oil with moly in my bike for years and it’s never done any damage, well good luck.
Yet others will say with equal value I have driven for thousands of miles without a seat belt on and have never gone through a windscreen, well good luck with that one as well.
On the subject of lube for the speed sensor Yamaha probably know best.
(24-12-18, 12:06 AM)tommyardin link Wrote: [quote author=His Dudeness link=topic=24814.msg289477#msg289477 date=1545599219][size=1em]
If you want to get fancy. The manual shows the symbol LS next to the speedo drive so this is what Yamaha recommend using https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/detai...earch&d=31|31&ls=yamaha-motor-company&dealernumber=
[/size]
[size=1em]Molybedenum is a general slip agent that is often added to car engine oils, they say it makes oil more slippery without changing the viscocity of the oil. That’s why they (not sure who they are) say you should not use oils with this additive in vehicles with wet clutches.[/size]
[size=1em] I have heard others say I have used oil with moly in my bike for years and it’s never done any damage, well good luck.[/size]
[size=1em] Yet others will say with equal value I have driven for thousands of miles without a seat belt on and have never gone through a windscreen, well good luck with that one as well.[/size]
[size=1em] On the subject of lube for the speed sensor Yamaha probably know best.[/size]
[/quote]
So as we are all saying & Yamaha to, LS = Lightweight Lithium Soap Base Grease. MS = Molybedenum Disulphide Grease.
I'm amazed the thing is even still working after 20 years of possibly not being lubed. Would've thought the lugs would've called it a day by now, so without intending to sound negative, don't be totally shocked at the small chance it might fall to bits in your hands when you remove it, because the original rotor sensors are a bit more fragile than the replacement ones.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(24-12-18, 06:12 AM)darrsi link Wrote: I'm amazed the thing is even still working after 20 years of possibly not being lubed. Would've thought the lugs would've called it a day by now, so without intending to sound negative, don't be totally shocked at the small chance it might fall to bits in your hands when you remove it, because the original rotor sensors are a bit more fragile than the replacement ones. Although 20 years old its only 21k miles and the last 17k miles have been dry ones. There is no squeaking at the moment.
Yes I have read on here about how fragile they are and wont be surprised to see it in bits. But I had the front tyre replaced back in the summer with no issues, it would of been picked up by the fitter wouldn't it.
When I do it I will document it with lots of pictures to post back here.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Quote: it would of been picked up by the fitter wouldn't it[/size].
Yes, you have to pull the drive out of the way after you've taken the front wheel spindle out. I remember one grumpy fitter supergluing the lugs back on when I took it in for its first tyre change. Well only fair, he broke them off :lol
(24-12-18, 01:14 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: [quote author=darrsi link=topic=24814.msg289484#msg289484 date=1545628327]
I'm amazed the thing is even still working after 20 years of possibly not being lubed. Would've thought the lugs would've called it a day by now, so without intending to sound negative, don't be totally shocked at the small chance it might fall to bits in your hands when you remove it, because the original rotor sensors are a bit more fragile than the replacement ones. Although 20 years old its only 21k miles and the last 17k miles have been dry ones. There is no squeaking at the moment.
Yes I have read on here about how fragile they are and wont be surprised to see it in bits. But I had the front tyre replaced back in the summer with no issues, it would of been picked up by the fitter wouldn't it.
When I do it I will document it with lots of pictures to post back here.
[/quote]
It's only a plastic ring that needs a splodge of grease on it.
I could probably get you a film crew together though if you wanna go the whole hog. :lol
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(24-12-18, 03:04 PM)mtread link Wrote: Quote: it would of been picked up by the fitter wouldn't it.
Yes, you have to pull the drive out of the way after you've taken the front wheel spindle out. I remember one grumpy fitter supergluing the lugs back on when I took it in for its first tyre change. Well only fair, he broke them off :lol I have watched them do it - either from afar with the last one or through the steam of a cup of tea the time before that and they just seemed to remove calipers take out the spindle and that was that, didn't see any other "fiddling"
Anyone go any pictures of it in situ as I am not sure how it sits. After removing the calipers and spindle do I remove the wheel by first moving it to the left / away from the sensor whilst supporting the wheel, otherwise the weight of the wheel will snap the lugs wont it ?
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
24-12-18, 03:21 PM
(This post was last modified: 24-12-18, 03:22 PM by fazersharp.)
(24-12-18, 03:17 PM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=fazersharp link=topic=24814.msg289492#msg289492 date=1545653659]
[quote author=darrsi link=topic=24814.msg289484#msg289484 date=1545628327]
I'm amazed the thing is even still working after 20 years of possibly not being lubed. Would've thought the lugs would've called it a day by now, so without intending to sound negative, don't be totally shocked at the small chance it might fall to bits in your hands when you remove it, because the original rotor sensors are a bit more fragile than the replacement ones. Although 20 years old its only 21k miles and the last 17k miles have been dry ones. There is no squeaking at the moment.
Yes I have read on here about how fragile they are and wont be surprised to see it in bits. But I had the front tyre replaced back in the summer with no issues, it would of been picked up by the fitter wouldn't it.
When I do it I will document it with lots of pictures to post back here.
[/quote]
It's only a plastic ring that needs a splodge of grease on it.
I could probably get you a film crew together though if you wanna go the whole hog. :lol
[/quote]I wanted to document the condition of 20 year old grease how dry - or not it is. But yeh - send them over
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
(24-12-18, 03:19 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: [quote author=mtread link=topic=24814.msg289494#msg289494 date=1545660269]
Quote: it would of been picked up by the fitter wouldn't it.
Yes, you have to pull the drive out of the way after you've taken the front wheel spindle out. I remember one grumpy fitter supergluing the lugs back on when I took it in for its first tyre change. Well only fair, he broke them off :lol I have watched them do it - either from afar with the last one or through the steam of a cup of tea the time before that and they just seemed to remove calipers take out the spindle and that was that, didn't see any other "fiddling"
Anyone go any pictures of it in situ as I am not sure how it sits. After removing the calipers and spindle do I remove the wheel by first moving it to the left / away from the sensor whilst supporting the wheel, otherwise the weight of the wheel will snap the lugs wont it ?
[/quote]
The outer casing of the sensor has a slot on it which needs to be paired with a guide on the left fork.
Like a sort of tongue and groove scenario.
But it has to be done with the lugs in position and the housing sitting correctly, which is why a good dollop of grease actually helps when refitting.
It is fiddly the first time, but i learned rather quickly when i snapped the lugs on mine not to do it again.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
As you slide the axle out support the weight of the wheel with your hand  You can do it fazersharp we believe in you  ......next thread posted is what is the best glue for sticking the tabs back on my speedo :lol
If anyone asks tell them you were going so fast the speedo couldn't handle the G force and blew apart
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