Starting Issues / No neutral Light. *Thievin' little scrotes!*

[Banger]

So, after a week of abject misery after my Fave bike - 05 Gen1 Fazer 100 - was stolen from my sisters drive by the local little scrotes, I have managed to retrieve it from the little darlings and get it back to the safety of my garage.

Insurance Assessor is due out next week so I thought I'd get a look over done first to see if it was worth buying it back to repair.

Good news is that all the big important things appear fine, wheels, forks, frame etc.

Having re-connected the chopped loom at the ignition I now have all lights, horn & oil light on dash but no Neutral light and the starter button is dead as a dodo. Nothing, not even a click.

Need to get it started asap to be sure the engine is sound so any help or advice on what to check now is welcome.

Possible causes ?

Ignition cut out relay behind L/H panel. Can this be tested ?
Side stand switch - checked & seems ok

Starter solenoid ?
Clutch switch ?  Clutch cable and lever are disconnected but switch bypassed.
Neutral switch failed ?


Any Advice please on where to go next ?

[sirgalahad3]

Alarm wiring hacked out?
Fuses missing?

[Banger]

Alarm wiring hacked out?
Fuses missing?

No Alarm fitted.
Main 20A fuse was blown but I've replaced this. All other fuses are OK. . . .

[Hugh Mungus]

The starter button won't work cos your neutral light isn't working. Try pressing the start button with the clutch pulled in. If it starts then there is still a problem with the wires from the neutral switch as the bike thinks it's in gear.

[Banger]

The starter button won't work cos your neutral light isn't working. Try pressing the start button with the clutch pulled in. If it starts then there is still a problem with the wires from the neutral switch as the bike thinks it's in gear.

Thanks for the reply.


I've just been down for another fiddle.


12V reading from the Neutral switch connection when ignition is on.
Starter will turn it over when lived direct from the Battery but it didn't fire.


I've jerry rigged a new clutch lever mount but the clutch isn't disengaging when the lever is pulled, clevis arm is moving but something is obviously not right there.


I was going to try and bump it but can't until I've resolved the clutch issue. Grgrr

[NorthWestern]

Just short the clutch switch (ie unplug and short the connector) , it doesn't have to actually pull the clutch. Or just tape the switch up, your just fooling it into thinking its pulled in.

[Hugh Mungus]

Have you checked the kill switch?

[Banger]

Just double checked the Clutch switch. No change with it in/ out / bridged.

Kill switch is Ok.

Left thinking either my Neutral switch is knackered - coincidentally, or they've fried the main relay when fiddling about with chopped wires . . ?

[Hugh Mungus]

Are you trying this with the side-stand up or down? Might make a difference if you have it up.
Could also be your theory that a relay has be burnt out - if too much damage has been done it might be worth letting it go unless you want to buy it back to use as spares.


I bought a stolen recovered bike once and the barrel/piston had to be replaced as the scrotes had thrashed the engine to bits.

[Banger]

Side stand up or down doesn't make any difference.

Know what you're saying Hugh/Pat. The damage isn't too heavy. If I can get it started I'll repair it.
Was really expecting to have heard it running before the Insurance Assessor comes out.  >:


I can't see what else it could be at this point other than the relay.


I've had the clocks off just now and checked all the connections there too and found nothing suspicious.
*Sigh.*

[unfazed]

Usually the scrotes who hot wire them bunch the ignition wires together, if this was the case with yours then it most likely has blown two critical diodes in the Starter Cut out relay under the left side panel, these two diodes control the operation of the Neutral light and the sidestand switch. Did the Fuel pump run when you turn on the kill switch?

Let me know if the all the ignition wires were bunched together when you got it back and if the pump works and I will PM you how to work around it.

[Banger]

Let me know if the all the ignition wires were bunched together when you got it back and if the pump works and I will PM you how to work around it.

All Ignition wires were twisted together, apart from Red, Black and Brown which were loose / separate when I got it back.
Must have been connected at some point tho.


Cannot hear any Relays kicking when .

New Ignition cut out Relay is £60, so not the end of the world. Be nice to be sure before I buy it though.
Unless anyone has a spare they would like to sell ?

[unfazed]

Are there 5 wires in the ignition? What are the other colours?
Reason for asking is that there are 3 different switches on the Fazer1000
one has 4 wires, another has 5 wires and the third one has 7 wires.

[Banger]

one has 4 wires, another has 5 wires and the third one has 7 wires.

Hiya

Typically enough . . mine has 6 wires.

Red, Black, Brown, Brown with Red stripe, Blue with yellow stripe & Blue with black stripe.

Cannot see any evidence in the Loom or from the Barrel that there was ever a 7th wire ? 

[unfazed]

What is the under seat code it so I can figure out which model it is?
Have you the same keys for all locks?
Check the plug/socket the ignition wires plug into and tell me was colours are in that going into the loom. There will be 2 plugs/sockets 

[Banger]

Under seat code - 1C2A-050
Same OEM key for all locks on the bike.


Wires running back from the 2 red Loom connectors in the main connection bundle under the tank/coil -


Plug 1 - Red & Brown with blue stripe
Plug 2 - Black, Brown with a red stripe & Blue with a yellow stripe.


Cheers

[unfazed]

Sent you a PM