Although old now, Pat's instructions and the addendums to it cover pretty much everything for this job. However, it doesn't mention porting the intake boots or modding the airbox lid, both of which are necessary parts of the Full Monty installation.
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthr...+boot+mods
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthr...ir+box+mod
The first example of modding an airbox lid in the above post is incorrect. Read on to find the proper way to do it.
Addendum II to Pat's instructions were written by me under my old forum name. I urge you also to replace the float valve seat O-rings while you have the carbs apart. That's covered in Addendum III.
A few other things which I would change if writing this today:
Only drill one of the pilot bypass holes. Do the one nearest to you of the two that Ivan enlarges. It's the middle one, not the one that is furthest from the throttle plate. Pat's Site shows this clearly. I found that it gives all the performance benefits that doing two holes does. Why double your chances of breaking a bit for no gain? Also, if the holes are over-enlarged they might cause over-rich idle mixture. Enlarging only one prevents this occurring.
Set the mixture screws at 4 1/4 turns out.
Important! Pull the EXUP cables and coolant hose out from behind the airbox before sliding it back. They will sit clear of the frame on the right side of the bike. Also, make sure the block on the cable tie holding the rubber tank damper on the frame crossrail doesn't foul the airbox. These two steps ensure you get maximum clearance between carbs and airbox which makes carb removal a lot easier.
Be really careful with the bolts holding the intake stubs in place. It is vital that you use a well-fitting, good quality allen bit on these because many are corroded in place. I use a Snap-On bit on a 1/4" drive wrench, never a regular allen wrench. These socket heads are not the greatest quality and I have had a few round off on me even with the right gear.
You'll probably find one or two of yours will be tight but - with luck and careful application of additional torque - they will eventually come free ... usually with a nasty 'crack' as the corrosion gives way. If you round one off - unlucky - be ready to do some engineering improvision!
You will probably find the float bowl screws equally corroded but these are much better quality stainless and - with the right screwdriver - much less likely to strip. However, if you have an impact driver, use it.
If you haven't already bought the air filter, I recommend a Pipercross filter from Trumpet Tyres. Check ebay. If you've ordered a K&N filter, don't be surprised if you have to dremel the top flange to get it to fit.
You can contact me by PM if you have any questions during the course of the job. Take your time and all should be fine.
Mike
PS. You can check to see if it's been 'Ivanised' already by simply removing one of the carb tops and inspecting the throttle slide spring. If it has been clipped, it's a good indication that something has been done. Remove the needle next and inspect it. Stock is single taper and has SD-130 or SD-129 stamped around the top. Dynojerk needles are the same profile as stock but have 8 e-clip grooves. Ivan's needles clearly have different tapers ground into them.
So, in practical terms it's actually pretty easy. I realize that in real world terms, for someone doing it for the first time it takes a lot longer and you need to take your time to figure out the best tool to use, how to approach it and how much effort to apply to things like sliding the carbs out.