If the choke made it worse it does suggest it’s rich. A blocked air filter could cause that so the new air filter is the place to start. If that doesn’t fix it the next easiest would be to check the choke plungers are all returning correctly. If they’re all good as punk said there’s a chance that the last guy lowered the retaining clip on the jet needle which raises it and allows more fuel through at part throttle. So next would be to check the position of the clip on the jet needles. I think position three on is standard.
A few other things that could cause rich running would be if someone’s put bigger jets in, if the jet needles and emulsion tubes are worn but I think that would need fairly high mileage, float heights not set right but that would probably make it run badly everywhere, o-ring under the float needle seat leaking but again that would probably make it run badly everywhere, mixture screws but they seem to be fine. I think the most likely culprits now are the air filter, choke plungers or jet needle position but hopefully the filter does the trick
On a Fazer the mixture screws adjust the amount of fuel at idle not the amount of air so if you turn them out it'll make the mixture richer. If you turn them in it'll make it leaner. If you're at 3 turns out you're making it richer. You're thinking the problem is it's running rich so put them back to 2 1/2. To check the choke is working. If you pull the choke lever and look at the carb you'll see the choke plungers moving in and out as you pull the lever. They're on the engine side of the carb at the top. They're brass plungers. Check that they're all moving together and closing fully. Something I think you should do is take the bike for a spin and when you get back throw some water on the exhaust header and see if they all dry at the same rate. If they all dry at the same rate then the problem is likely something affecting all cylinders if one dries at a different rate to the others then that suggests it's a problem that affects just one cylinder. Another easy thing to do if you haven't already is trim the ends off the ht leads they corrode and can cause problems.
Don't worry about the bike starting without the choke that is normal for a Fazer as the weather starts to warm up.
If you still have the original plug caps the bike might benefit from replacing them with NGK SD05 ones. The originals are renowned for causing misfires, the NGKs are straight rather than with a 90º bend at the top but they fit and are more reliable.
Hey All.
Ok i checked the choke plungers and they seem to be working fine. I can see them moving out and returning to their position once the choke is closed and I did trim the ht leads about 3-5mm at the ends.
i reset the pilot screw to 2 1/2 turns and took for a ride yesterday.
on the straight road the bike is just fine but if i start climbing a hill and open up the throttle then the bike start struggle.
At this point i am not sure what to do next and might bite the bullet and take to a mechanic.
I am going to do a last check on the connections to the air box and ensure everything is correct. Other than that i have to light a candle. :'(
PS. I put a new set of iridium spark plugs about a month ago.
what do you mean when you say starts to struggle lack of power ? cutting out ?
Did you balance the carbs? Can you make a video of the bike running while its having the problem?
Hey Guys.
Sorry for the delay on posting a reply here. I only managed to get the bike to a mechanic last week.
Ok all problems sorted.
Issues: HT caps needed replacement, bad spark plug due to bike running on one cylinder only (Brand new ones), Adjusted the fuel mixture and re-balanced carbs.
Anyway thanks all for all the advices they did not went on waist. I learned a lot with them and surely will apply some of them sometime( but hope not too soon! ) :lol
Take care.
Electrical faults can exhibit the behaviour your describing. If you have a weak spark, the bike can start to misfire (fire on 3) as you open the throttle. On full throttle it bogs down, back off on the throttle and the engine picks up and revs smooth.
This is because the electrical resistance of the air/fuel mix changes with throttle position. Often misdiagnosed as a fuel or air flow problem.
Personally my money would be on a corrosion issue around the head/spark plug/ caps leading to a lost voltage and arcing around the outside of the plug.
I might be wrong but this is an issue I've had a couple of times with my bike.
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