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Strange Vibration
#21
(03-04-18, 02:10 PM)Disorderlypunk link Wrote: ok so going through everything im going to start with your cracked carbs
were they cracked all the way through or just the outside?
all should make sense if they were through and were leaking  UNfiltered air in and the previous owner has increased the pilot screws to let more fuel through to richen up the lean conditions caused by leaking inlets (we good so far)


if there is now no UNfiltered air going in the inlets anymore it draws it through carbs so increases the negative pressure/flow rate in the carbs and in turn the airbox which means more air is needed to flow through the air filter than previously, so a blocked air filter may be to blame here (and would actually make the UNfiltered air coming through the old inlets even worse)


so a combination of things will be causing you issues here
you have already replaced inlets -should only be filtered air now
1. running rich as pilot screws are allowing too much fuel to flow screw them back in a bit to factory
2. air flow is restricted causing a negative pressure which sucks up more fuel making run even richer - pull air filter and replace (worth doing anyhow)


this is just the things that are popping into my head as i read all the problems that you are systematically going through which is the best way


ok that makes sense since some of the rubbers were cracked a bit bad. I did clean the pilot screw if that what you mean but i did count the turns that were already set by the previous person that worked on the carbs and i reset it as it was.
So it makes sense that is running even richer then. I will be getting the new filter tomorrow and will post an update


Thanks very much.
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#22
If the choke made it worse it does suggest it’s rich. A blocked air filter could cause that so the new air filter is the place to start. If that doesn’t fix it the next easiest would be to check the choke plungers are all returning correctly. If they’re all good as punk said there’s a chance that the last guy lowered the retaining clip on the jet needle which raises it and allows more fuel through at part throttle. So next would be to check the position of the clip on the jet needles. I think position three on is standard.

A few other things that could cause rich running would be if someone’s put bigger jets in, if the jet needles and emulsion tubes are worn but I think that would need fairly high mileage, float heights not set right but that would probably make it run badly everywhere, o-ring under the float needle seat leaking but again that would probably make it run badly everywhere, mixture screws but they seem to be fine. I think the most likely culprits now are the air filter, choke plungers or jet needle position but hopefully the filter does the trick
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#23
(03-04-18, 06:23 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: If the choke made it worse it does suggest it’s rich. A blocked air filter could cause that so the new air filter is the place to start. If that doesn’t fix it the next easiest would be to check the choke plungers are all returning correctly. If they’re all good as punk said there’s a chance that the last guy lowered the retaining clip on the jet needle which raises it and allows more fuel through at part throttle. So next would be to check the position of the clip on the jet needles. I think position three on is standard.

A few other things that could cause rich running would be if someone’s put bigger jets in, if the jet needles and emulsion tubes are worn but I think that would need fairly high mileage, float heights not set right but that would probably make it run badly everywhere, o-ring under the float needle seat leaking but again that would probably make it run badly everywhere, mixture screws but they seem to be fine. I think the most likely culprits now are the air filter, choke plungers or jet needle position but hopefully the filter does the trick


Hi guys sorry for the delay. the filter only arrived today!
Replaced the filter and went for a ride today. Weather here is f... bad! The bike sound and felt much better and the throttle response was really nice but the issue still there a bit. Not as much as i had before but i can still feel it strangling a bit on low revs. I have set the pilot air 3 turns out and i might lower it down to 2 1/2 again and see if makes any difference as i have noticed that the bike is starting without the choke on now. So very rich! i will check if the choke plungers  are the issue now and hope i can get this sorted myself. By the way where is this - inside of carbs? hope not! :'(
The bike feels great and apart from this little problem is getting to be a perfect machine. Hope i will get to the bottom soon. I hate to have to send it to a mechanic after a the good work that i have done so far.

Thanks again for all your help.

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#24
On a Fazer the mixture screws adjust the amount of fuel at idle not the amount of air so if you turn them out it'll make the mixture richer. If you turn them in it'll make it leaner. If you're at 3 turns out you're making it richer. You're thinking the problem is it's running rich so put them back to 2 1/2. To check the choke is working. If you pull the choke lever and look at the carb you'll see the choke plungers moving in and out as you pull the lever. They're on the engine side of the carb at the top. They're brass plungers. Check that they're all moving together and closing fully. Something I think you should do is take the bike for a spin and when you get back throw some water on the exhaust header and see if they all dry at the same rate. If they all dry at the same rate then the problem is likely something affecting all cylinders if one dries at a different rate to the others then that suggests it's a problem that affects just one cylinder. Another easy thing to do if you haven't already is trim the ends off the ht leads they corrode and can cause problems.
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#25
(10-04-18, 10:08 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: On a Fazer the mixture screws adjust the amount of fuel at idle not the amount of air so if you turn them out it'll make the mixture richer. If you turn them in it'll make it leaner. If you're at 3 turns out you're making it richer. You're thinking the problem is it's running rich so put them back to 2 1/2. To check the choke is working. If you pull the choke lever and look at the carb you'll see the choke plungers moving in and out as you pull the lever. They're on the engine side of the carb at the top. They're brass plungers. Check that they're all moving together and closing fully. Something I think you should do is take the bike for a spin and when you get back throw some water on the exhaust header and see if they all dry at the same rate. If they all dry at the same rate then the problem is likely something affecting all cylinders if one dries at a different rate to the others then that suggests it's a problem that affects just one cylinder. Another easy thing to do if you haven't already is trim the ends off the ht leads they corrode and can cause problems.


Thanks.
I will do that and let you know.

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#26
(11-04-18, 12:40 PM)adasilva link Wrote: [quote author=His Dudeness link=topic=23941.msg278162#msg278162 date=1523394509]
On a Fazer the mixture screws adjust the amount of fuel at idle not the amount of air so if you turn them out it'll make the mixture richer. If you turn them in it'll make it leaner. If you're at 3 turns out you're making it richer. You're thinking the problem is it's running rich so put them back to 2 1/2. To check the choke is working. If you pull the choke lever and look at the carb you'll see the choke plungers moving in and out as you pull the lever. They're on the engine side of the carb at the top. They're brass plungers. Check that they're all moving together and closing fully. Something I think you should do is take the bike for a spin and when you get back throw some water on the exhaust header and see if they all dry at the same rate. If they all dry at the same rate then the problem is likely something affecting all cylinders if one dries at a different rate to the others then that suggests it's a problem that affects just one cylinder. Another easy thing to do if you haven't already is trim the ends off the ht leads they corrode and can cause problems.



[/quote]



When you say trim the ht leads do you mean to cut it a bit. Are these the ones for the plugs right. Sorry never heard of them before.


thanks
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#27
Don't worry about the bike starting without the choke that is normal for a Fazer as the weather starts to warm up.
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#28
(11-04-18, 12:54 PM)adasilva link Wrote: When you say trim the ht leads do you mean to cut it a bit. Are these the ones for the plugs right. Sorry never heard of them before.

thanks

Yep. Pull the cap off the spark plug, then unscrew the cap from the ht lead, then cut a small bit off the end of the ht lead.
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#29
If you still have the original plug caps the bike might benefit from replacing them with NGK SD05 ones. The originals are renowned for causing misfires, the NGKs are straight rather than with a 90º bend at the top but they fit and are more reliable.
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#30
Hey All.
Ok i checked the choke plungers and they seem to be working fine. I can see them moving out and returning to their position once the choke is closed and  I did trim the ht leads about 3-5mm at the ends.
i reset the pilot screw to 2 1/2 turns and took for a ride yesterday.
on the straight road the bike is just fine but if i start climbing a hill and open up the throttle then the bike start struggle.
At this point i am not sure what to do next and might bite the bullet and take to a mechanic.


I am going to do a last check on the connections to the air box and ensure everything is correct. Other than that i have to light a candle.  :'(


PS. I put a new set of iridium spark plugs about a month ago.
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#31
what do you mean when you say starts to  struggle  lack of power ? cutting out ?

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#32
(13-04-18, 10:04 AM)daviee link Wrote: what do you mean when you say starts to  struggle  lack of power ? cutting out ?
Lack of power.
Is like if i was on the wrong gear. the bike jerks. then it picks up speed again and is fine. it just happens when i lets say reduce speed and gear and try to increase power. Climbing a hill for example.


Thanks
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#33
Did you balance the carbs? Can you make a video of the bike running while its having the problem?
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#34
(13-04-18, 09:35 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: Did you balance the carbs? Can you make a video of the bike running while its having the problem?
I did balanced the carbs but i think i might have to do it again since i balanced with the old filter in and it might have give me false results.
Will try to do a video to show the issue.


cheers
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#35
Hey Guys.
Sorry for the delay on posting a reply here. I only managed to get the bike to a mechanic last week.
Ok all problems sorted.
Issues: HT caps needed replacement, bad spark plug due to bike running on one cylinder only (Brand new ones), Adjusted the fuel mixture and re-balanced carbs.


Anyway thanks all for all the advices they did not went on waist. I learned a lot with them and surely will apply some of them sometime( but hope not too soon! )  :lol


Take care.
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#36
Electrical faults can exhibit the behaviour your describing. If you have a weak spark, the bike can start to misfire (fire on 3) as you open the throttle. On full throttle it bogs down, back off on the throttle and the engine picks up and revs smooth.

This is because the electrical  resistance of the air/fuel mix changes with throttle position. Often misdiagnosed as a fuel or air flow problem.

Personally my money would be on a corrosion issue around the head/spark plug/ caps leading to a lost voltage and arcing around the outside of the plug.

I might be wrong but this is an issue I've had a couple of times with my bike.
-suck-squeeze-bang-blow-
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#37
(31-03-18, 01:46 PM)Adam2201 link Wrote: [quote author=Disorderlypunk link=topic=23941.msg277545#msg277545 date=1522442268]
ive suffered the bad vibrations and i found this fixed it
https://youtu.be/Eab_beh07HU?t=25s




This was a risky click at work!
[/quote]


Ha ha! Can you imagine being called to the mangers office to explain why the office computer system logged an inappropriate website viewing and flagged it up to the IT department. What has Anne Summers got to do with your job or work.
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#38
(31-03-18, 09:10 PM)adasilva link Wrote:
Hi there.
This problem only started after i cleaned the cabs. The problem occurs when lets say i am on 5 gear and slow down and switch to 4 and after that try to pick up speed. I guess fully closed to fully opened.
Correct. When i open the throttle wider it stops and pick up speed.
I think block pilot jets might be out of question since i cleaned the carbs. I think it might be the mixture screws.
The mixture screws factory spec as per manual is 2 turns out. At the moment they are 2 1/2. Should they all have the same turns?


But my question is if the issue is the mixture screws how do i set these to correct this problem?


I will do the test that you s uggested and see. <<<<
Big Grin
I will let you kinow


Thanks for you info.
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#39
(02-04-18, 03:39 PM)adasilva link Wrote: Ok. I have ordered a new air filter and reset the mixture screws to factory default.
Waiting on delivery of filter to try it out.
Will let you guys know.


Thanks


You are more have patience than me, I would cut the old filter with a Stanley knife about 10 cuts from top to bottom just to try it out.
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