Tyre question

[darrsi]

I've had 2x PR3s and on my 2nd PR4 on the rear.  Throughout these it's been PR3's on the front.

The PR3s lasted for 7100 and 5600 miles.  The 2nd one had more mileage in it, but was punctured (see below)
The 1st PR4 went for 9750.  Money was tight at this point, so I plugged the old PR3 and ran it for another 1200, taking it to a total of 7800, when it punctured again and I couldn't justify a repair at that mileage. 
Only up to 1700 on the 2nd PR4.

As for feel, when I switched from the PR3 to the PR4 I wasn't so keen.  It felt like the tyre was taller in the middle and tipped differently (imaging the two ends of an egg- the wide end being PR3 and the pointy end the PR4).  This feeling was confirmed when I switched back to the worn PR3.  I went with a PR4 again to see if I was imagining it, but I wasn't.

My next tyre choice may depend on the mileage I get out of it.  If it gets around the same as the last PR4 I may go for another one, just for value for money. However if it's not as good on the mileage, then I may go for the PR3 for riding feel.

Nice review there fella......just to confuse me even more.  :lol
Was kinda going towards the PR4 but you just put me back towards the PR3 again. Good description with the egg.  :thumbup

[darrsi]

Thought i’d mention i went for the PR4 in the end and i must admit i’m already loving it.
Bearing in mind the tyre is still a bit shiny as it was only fitted Saturday, and also i’ve ridden in rain and cold weather that’s created very slippery roads, the tyre has remained planted firmly on the road with not even a hint of sliding at all.
It’s unfortunate i had to change it now with the iffy weather looming but it’s a thumbs up from me from what i’ve experienced so far.  :thumbup

[Frosties]

Well that only took you a month............... :lol


Welcome to the PR3/4 appreciation society  :thumbup

[celticbiker]

Love the pr4 but for the dry weather the pp3 ate far superior..

[darrsi]

Well that only took you a month............... :lol


Welcome to the PR3/4 appreciation society  :thumbup

I know, i was riding around with a plugged tyre that also had over half a bottle of that Slime stuff rolling about, it knocked the rear end well off balance.
It was more of a calendar thing though, the tyre took a few days to arrive, then it was my weekend on call for work so had to wait for the next weekend when i was off to sort it all out.


Again though, REALLY cold this morning and still the tyre felt very stable, and it can only get better once it’s scrubbed in a bit. 

[darrsi]

Love the pr4 but for the dry weather the pp3 ate far superior..

It’s the shit weather that i want the stability and full confidence for though, and in fairness we do have a lot of shit weather.

[celticbiker]

True, I've switched back to the pr4 for the run up to Christmas then onto the storm 3d xm then the conti motion then back to the pp3 in April.

[fazersharp]

I don't think I have ever had a matching set front and back although have always been Bridgstones I think I may have a matching set now but honestly couldn't say without looking might be batalx 023s. I do fancy a matching set of pp3 after reading up on them, my rear is nearer to be replaced than the front but - an open question, how much benefit would I gain by loosing a bit of money mileage if I change the front early so I have a matching set of pp3s. Also there are deals on cheaper sets rather than buying separate isn't there. 
Just had a thought that I may even have an excuse to buy a new front based on age alone, but the bike is kept garaged out of the sun - but then again I only ride in the sun . 

[darrsi]

I don't think I have ever had a matching set front and back although have always been Bridgstones I think I may have a matching set now but honestly couldn't say without looking might be batalx 023s. I do fancy a matching set of pp3 after reading up on them, my rear is nearer to be replaced than the front but - an open question, how much benefit would I gain by loosing a bit of money mileage if I change the front early so I have a matching set of pp3s. Also there are deals on cheaper sets rather than buying separate isn't there. 
Just had a thought that I may even have an excuse to buy a new front based on age alone, but the bike is kept garaged out of the sun - but then again I only ride in the sun .

Fronts last longer than rears anyway, so if it's still in good nick i'd personally leave it alone and change it when necessary.
Or are you just looking for an excuse?  :lol

[tommyardin]

I have had Bridgestones on the fZS600 ever since i bought it, Battlax 021F & 021R.


Very happy with the back, but, not so sure about the front, the front tyre has feathered on the outside edges and have noticed it can be very slightly twitchy even in the dry (I don't do wet) when powering out of bends.


I have a replacement to go on but will leave it until nearer Springtime, the replacement is a Bridgestone T30 Evo for the front.


I am very happy with the 021R on the ass-end it has never given me an arse clenching moment but the front has caused a little heart burn a couple of times, not that it has ever been a problem really, but it just stepping out 5 or 10mm on a fast bend is enough, plus the feathering is a bit concerning.


I have heard some great things about The Bridgestone T30 Evo apparently 'Ron Haslam'  uses them on all his bikes at his racing school.
If they are good enough for R............  :rolleyes

[celticbiker]

I have had Bridgestones on the fZS600 ever since i bought it, Battlax 021F & 021R.


Very happy with the back, but, not so sure about the front, the front tyre has feathered on the outside edges and have noticed it can be very slightly twitchy even in the dry (I don't do wet) when powering out of bends.

I am very happy with the 021R on the ass-end it has never given me an arse clenching moment but the front has caused a little heart burn a couple of times, not that it has ever been a problem really, but it just stepping out 5 or 10mm on a fast bend is enough, plus the feathering is a bit concerning.

What suspension changes have you made since putting these tires on?

[tommyardin]

Complete change front and rear, rear shocker Nitron, front Ohlins Linears and YSS emus, but have to say its much better now than it was before the upgrades were done, so the upgrades are not responsible in any way.
The original 021F that was on the bike when I got it was feathered and that was the reason I changed it, but the new one has done the same at 3,500 clicks, 2/3rds use with the old suspension set up 1/3rd with the new.
I have been reading about the 021 on the front and lots complain that they feather, some also say that with the T30 Evo on the feathering has stopped.


So I will give it a go in the springtime and let cha know.    :thumbup

[celticbiker]

Aah, I think you misunderstood.
You can spend 50 grand on suspension mods but they still have to be tuned to suit weather conditions and tires.
I have a list of suspension changes that my set up requires for different tires (brand and model) under different weather conditions (temperature and precipitation).
As an example pr4s require
Rear > 23mm pre load, 8 clicks compression, 7 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 130mm air gap,
2.5 turns compression and 1.5 turns rebound.

But the pp3s (same manufacturer) having such a vastly different side wall construction require.
Rear > 24mm pre load, 10 clicks compression, 8 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load,  10wt oil with 135mm air gap, 2.125 turns compression and 1.25 turns rebound.

All in dry conditions and depending on weather conditions will get changed accordingly even between going to and coming home from work.
And don't forget, ride height can also be adjusted as the rear tire wears to slow the process, maintain weight distribution and prevent shear tearing on the front as it becomes over worked due to the changing weight distribution.

[fazersharp]

Aah, I think you misunderstood.
You can spend 50 grand on suspension mods but they still have to be tuned to suit weather conditions and tires.
I have a list of suspension changes that my set up requires for different tires (brand and model) under different weather conditions (temperature and precipitation).
As an example pr4s require
Rear > 23mm pre load, 8 clicks compression, 7 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 130mm air gap,
2.5 turns compression and 1.5 turns rebound.

But the pp3s (same manufacturer) having such a vastly different side wall construction require.
Rear > 24mm pre load, 10 clicks compression, 8 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load,  10wt oil with 135mm air gap, 2.125 turns compression and 1.25 turns rebound.

All in dry conditions and depending on weather conditions will get changed accordingly even between going to and coming home from work.
And don't forget, ride height can also be adjusted as the rear tire wears to slow the process, maintain weight distribution and prevent shear tearing on the front as it becomes over worked due to the changing weight distribution.

:eek :eek :eek :eek its quicker to walk
Never felt the need to fiddle, maybe - 10 stone at a push (with the UKs finest Sunday dinner onboard ) is just not enough to warrant it. Mind you I only need 1 set up ----dry 

[agricola]

Aah, I think you misunderstood.
You can spend 50 grand on suspension mods but they still have to be tuned to suit weather conditions and tires.
I have a list of suspension changes that my set up requires for different tires (brand and model) under different weather conditions (temperature and precipitation).
As an example pr4s require
Rear > 23mm pre load, 8 clicks compression, 7 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 130mm air gap,
2.5 turns compression and 1.5 turns rebound.

But the pp3s (same manufacturer) having such a vastly different side wall construction require.
Rear > 24mm pre load, 10 clicks compression, 8 clicks rebound.





Front > 4 turns pre load,  10wt oil with 135mm air gap, 2.125 turns compression and 1.25 turns rebound.

All in dry conditions and depending on weather conditions will get changed accordingly even between going to and coming home from work.
And don't forget, ride height can also be adjusted as the rear tire wears to slow the process, maintain weight distribution and prevent shear tearing on the front as it becomes over worked due to the changing weight distribution.

Wow. Ive ragged my around donington, ridden to work in heatwaves, frost, pouring rain, howling gales, and with two different manufactures tyres on the bike, and never adjusted. I think id give up biking rather than faff every time i got the bikes out

[celticbiker]

For me it's not a faff. The changes can be made while the bike is warming up. You'd only be stood waiting anyway.
I spent 20 years racing so to me this is just what you do. I wouldn't ride without wearing safety gear (how many other people do you see wearing a leatt brace)  and I wouldn't ride without working this stuff out either.
It's part of the fun of riding.

[fazersharp]

Sorry  :o - each to their own -- I am ATGATT but had to google leatt brace ( i might get one ) but in the winter with 3 layers of thermal and a leather jaket and a high vis and buff neck scarf its difficult enough to look behind as it is.
Respect 20 years racing and yes I do agree its all part of the fun and if I am honest I too enjoy the prep and faff of it all but sometimes by the time I am ready to go its gone cloudy and looking a little bit iffy.

[tommyardin]

[quote author=celticbiker link=topic=23444.msg271914#msg271914 date=1512243310]
Aah, I think you misunderstood.
You can spend 50 grand on suspension mods but they still have to be tuned to suit weather conditions and tires.
I have a list of suspension changes that my set up requires for different tires (brand and model) under different weather conditions (temperature and precipitation).
As an example pr4s require
Rear > 23mm pre load, 8 clicks compression, 7 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load, 10wt oil with 130mm air gap,
2.5 turns compression and 1.5 turns rebound.

But the pp3s (same manufacturer) having such a vastly different side wall construction require.
Rear > 24mm pre load, 10 clicks compression, 8 clicks rebound.
Front > 4 turns pre load,  10wt oil with 135mm air gap, 2.125 turns compression and 1.25 turns rebound.

All in dry conditions and depending on weather conditions will get changed accordingly even between going to and coming home from work.
And don't forget, ride height can also be adjusted as the rear tire wears to slow the process, maintain weight distribution and prevent shear tearing on the front as it becomes over worked due to the changing weight distribution.

:eek :eek :eek :eek its quicker to walk
Never felt the need to fiddle, maybe - 10 stone at a push (with the UKs finest Sunday dinner onboard ) is just not enough to warrant it. Mind you I only need 1 set up ----dry
[/quote]


I have quoted Sharpie but could just have easily quoted Agricola.
I have set my sags
Static Front        25 mm
Static Rear        16 mm
Rider Sag Front  41 mm
Rider Sag Rear    37 mm


the Nitron R1 was built and set up for my riding weight at the factory, but I have softened the rebound by the smallest of margins as I have lost about 8 lbs in weight since the shock was built,.


The emulators were set up for my rider weight and the fork oil weight fine tuned to give me the best rebound I could get even hard powering out of fast bumpy bends the front tyre stays in firm contact with the road (Apart from the odd little twitch because of feathered tyre)  The Front Fork Emulators adjustment take care of compression.
I love the way the bike rides.
Like Sharpie the 'Racing Snake' I don't do wet weather. so the suspension is let at its optimal setting for me to ride in the dry when the weather is warm.

I enjoy blasting about on the bike, but, I am no racer.

I found that out in the mid seventies when I helped run-in a Morgo Bonneville at Brands Hatch one Wedneday afternoon (Practice Day) dropping down into South Bank thinking I was King of Brands doing probably about 80mph when a 3 pot 2T Kwacker passed between me and the checker kerbs on the right hand side of the track, the bike went through a 3 foot gap between me and the kerbs doing about 30 mph more that I was doing, I did not see it or hear it until it was alongside that was when I realised racing was not for me, Back into the pit lane on the Start and Finish straight the end of that lap to relieve myself.

I rode hard on the road but the track is a completely different ballgame.
The King of Brands I was not, more like the Joker of Brands. My mate Nigel Warn went on to get a second at Oulton Park in Cheshire the following Saturday on the Morgo.     

[celticbiker]

No apologies necessary.
Most people would find braces inconvenient but I've used them or something similar for 30 years.
As for iffy weather,  you wouldn't believe how that makes me feel, I love riding in the rain, especially during/just after a torrential downpour (a couple of hours) the roads are so clean and grippy under the water.

[darrsi]

I have had Bridgestones on the fZS600 ever since i bought it, Battlax 021F & 021R.


Very happy with the back, but, not so sure about the front, the front tyre has feathered on the outside edges and have noticed it can be very slightly twitchy even in the dry (I don't do wet) when powering out of bends.


I have a replacement to go on but will leave it until nearer Springtime, the replacement is a Bridgestone T30 Evo for the front.


I am very happy with the 021R on the ass-end it has never given me an arse clenching moment but the front has caused a little heart burn a couple of times, not that it has ever been a problem really, but it just stepping out 5 or 10mm on a fast bend is enough, plus the feathering is a bit concerning.


I have heard some great things about The Bridgestone T30 Evo apparently 'Ron Haslam'  uses them on all his bikes at his racing school.
If they are good enough for R............  :rolleyes

Can only imagine the T30 would be nice and sticky on the front, the rear i just removed served me well, but i have to say even after one week the PR4 on the rear has seriously impressed me with its grip, which is exactly what i want.
Early days yet as well, it should get even better once scrubbed in.