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Oil & Oil Filter change.
#21
(30-01-13, 05:40 PM)darrsi link Wrote: I personally use a ring spanner, it's a bit easier to use with the bike on the side stand (drains the oil easier on the side stand).
Undo the bolt first, making sure the oil is directed into a bowl correctly, then undo the oil filler cap to let the air pass through.
Then tighten the bolt back up firmly but not overtight.


Cheers boss, will do. I've just bough a set of spanners and it has a 17mm ring one on so I am good to go there Big Grin


Just to get this right, it is around 2.7 litres when I fill it back up. I will be draining the oil and changing the filter.
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#22
From empty, as you are changing the filter as well, you're safe to put in 2.5 litres straight off.
Then, start the engine for 20-30 seconds so it coats the engine, switch off, and then watch the window, the oil will slowly rise up.
If it's not enough add a bit at a time, then start engine again, switch off, then watch the window again.
Repeat this process until the oil level is in between the metal markers at the side of the window.
Make sure the bike's on a level flat surface on the centre stand though otherwise you'll get a false reading.  Wink

If you're thinking of changing the oil around the 4000 mile mark, you only need to replace the filter every 2 changes, it's not necessary every time.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#23
(30-01-13, 05:52 PM)darrsi link Wrote: From empty, as you are changing the filter as well, you're safe to put in 2.5 litres straight off.
Then, start the engine for 20-30 seconds so it coats the engine, switch off, and then watch the window, the oil will slowly rise up.
If it's not enough add a bit at a time, then start engine again, switch off, then watch the window again.
Repeat this process until the oil level is in between the metal markers at the side of the window.
Make sure the bike's on a level flat surface on the centre stand though otherwise you'll get a false reading.  Wink


I love you.... Smile
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#24
according to manual :

Oil quantity:Total amount:3.5 L
Periodic oil change:2.5 L
With oil filter replacement:2.7 L
"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways - Chardonnay in one hand - strawberries in the other - body thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and screaming - WOO HOO! What a Ride!"
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#25
(30-01-13, 05:54 PM)xlewisbdx link Wrote: [quote author=darrsi link=topic=5961.msg54678#msg54678 date=1359564761]
From empty, as you are changing the filter as well, you're safe to put in 2.5 litres straight off.
Then, start the engine for 20-30 seconds so it coats the engine, switch off, and then watch the window, the oil will slowly rise up.
If it's not enough add a bit at a time, then start engine again, switch off, then watch the window again.
Repeat this process until the oil level is in between the metal markers at the side of the window.
Make sure the bike's on a level flat surface on the centre stand though otherwise you'll get a false reading.  Wink


I love you.... Smile
[/quote]

Now, now, control yourself, you have a bike to look after.......  :biker
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#26
(30-01-13, 05:55 PM)Lazarus link Wrote: according to manual :

Oil quantity:Total amount:3.5 L
Periodic oil change:2.5 L
With oil filter replacement:2.7 L

Crikey, don't chuck 3.5 litres into the equation, i'm trying to make this easy!!
3.5 litres is in the factory, totally dry.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#27
(30-01-13, 05:57 PM)darrsi link Wrote: [quote author=xlewisbdx link=topic=5961.msg54680#msg54680 date=1359564862]
[quote author=darrsi link=topic=5961.msg54678#msg54678 date=1359564761]
From empty, as you are changing the filter as well, you're safe to put in 2.5 litres straight off.
Then, start the engine for 20-30 seconds so it coats the engine, switch off, and then watch the window, the oil will slowly rise up.
If it's not enough add a bit at a time, then start engine again, switch off, then watch the window again.
Repeat this process until the oil level is in between the metal markers at the side of the window.
Make sure the bike's on a level flat surface on the centre stand though otherwise you'll get a false reading.  Wink


I love you.... Smile
[/quote]

Now, now, control yourself, you have a bike to look after.......  :biker
[/quote]


Oh yeah, he gets all the attention first Wink

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#28
I will be changing oil in mine. Do you know the measures for drain washer? Or link to websites would help. Fzs600 2002. Thanks.
Zielik
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#29
(04-05-17, 08:02 PM)zielik link Wrote: I will be changing oil in mine. Do you know the measures for drain washer? Or link to websites would help. Fzs600 2002. Thanks.


Would just use the old one to be honest, the sump bolt is long with plenty of thread, it's not under any stress, and won't come loose or leak.
Don't go mad tightening the bolt up either otherwise you'll round it off.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#30
Agree with darrsi, but if you want to replace with a new one you need a aluminium sump washer M14x20x1.5.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M14-X-20-X-1-5...0661455664
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#31
HI Darrsi and Bandit

Thank you very much for help. If I will manage to buy it in Edinburgh before the weekend (as it's too late for online order)  then I will use new washer if now then I go with the old one. I will use friend's torque wrench for tightening up so should be all good :-)

Thanks again
Zielik
Zielik
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#32
You will find that you will have to undo & do it up with a ring spanner as you can't get a torque wrench or socket on it due to the frame. Just nip it up don't be tempted to over tighten as you will strip the threads.
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#33
(04-05-17, 11:12 PM)bandit link Wrote: You will find that you will have to undo & do it up with a ring spanner as you can't get a torque wrench or socket on it due to the frame. Just nip it up don't be tempted to over tighten as you will strip the threads.


That was my earlier point about not going mad tightening it up, you can't get a socket on the nut so unless you've got some fancy contraption then nipping up as bandit says is more than enough. If it was to leak, which it won't, then simply nip it up a little bit more.
Just make sure the ring spanner is on properly otherwise it will quite easily round off or damage the soft hex head of the bolt......been there, done that before.  :o
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#34
For some reason that escapes me the sump plugs seem to be made with pre-rounded corners to make them more prone to spanners slipping than normal bolt heads
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#35
Regarding alternative methods on the oil filter, fust buy an oil filter socket, it makes it so much easier to change the filter.
On another note, for you guys with un-original downpipes (motad/delvic), do they make the oil filter change harder?

Also for the sump plug, these are worth their weight in gold:
[Image: 8873658318878.jpg]
[Image: 613563.png]
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#36

(05-05-17, 09:17 PM)kgjersda link Wrote: Also for the sump plug, these are worth their weight in gold:
[Image: 8873658318878.jpg]
Strictly speaking only one of them is, the rest won't fit  :lol
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#37
(05-05-17, 09:17 PM)kgjersda link Wrote: Regarding alternative methods on the oil filter, fust buy an oil filter socket, it makes it so much easier to change the filter.
On another note, for you guys with un-original downpipes (motad/delvic), do they make the oil filter change harder?

Also for the sump plug, these are worth their weight in gold:
[Image: 8873658318878.jpg]


:agree
Yeah, good shout, i have a set of these as well, really handy.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
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#38
I bought a set of these from Halfords in January and they have become my spanners of choice particularly in restricted areas. Money well spent!
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