28-03-17, 10:55 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-04-17, 07:43 PM by fazersharp.)
Fighting a battle with a couple of small holes in the collector box of my headers, the last time I did them was last year with rustoleum high temp after a member on here had good results with, I did prep the area very well and filled with gun gum but the rust has come back along with pushing off the filler.
Can anyone recommend a rust killer- are they any good or not.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Would it be worth cutting that section out and having a plate welded on. The problem that when metal rusts to holes metal around it is already badly rusted and you'll be chasing it forever. sorry I don't want to sound like I'm trying to teach my grandmother to suck eggs.
(28-03-17, 10:55 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: Fighting a battle with a couple of small holes in the collector box of my headers, the last time I did them was last year with rustoleum high temp after a member on here had good results with, I did prep the area very well and filled with gun gum but the rust has come back along with pushing off the filler.
Can anyone recommend a rust killer- are they any good or not.
A man who wont ride in the rain suffering with rust...........................The irony lol :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin
Complete fabrication, I didn't make it up!
A friend had very similar on a foxeye and took the small holes back to clean metal then used chemical metal to fill the holes initially to just get it through mot until he could afford new headers but it's still going strong 2 years on, could be an alternative to welding a plate on and more permanent than gun gum
Yes I am a granma sucking eggs but I am still open to focer wisdom, especially if I have always sucked eggs the same way.
That's right no rain for me but I might ride through wet damp patches and I think it also rots from the inside.
Chem metal then, sounds like I will give that a try instead of gun gum
Here is my holes last year after I had cleaned it all off with a wire wheel on a drill being on a curve how easy it it to weld a piece over it and how much would that cost over a new exhaust
Job when done last year
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Brazing a steel patch on might be a more robust solution. It will cope better with high temperatures then polymer filler and is easier than welding which requires a decent thickness to the underlying metal.
I think I will give chem metal a go, but doing a local search I have found this http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-ac...0&&cc5_851 is it a replacement or just something different
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
“Max temperature 315°C (<100 continuous)” according to the manufacturers.
The pipes there will be over 100ºC (though under 350º).. I wonder how long qualifies as continuous?
Still, it can be done in-situ so if it does fail at least it won’t be effort wasted.
(29-03-17, 11:25 AM)Fazerider link Wrote: “Max temperature 315°C (<100 continuous)” according to the manufacturers.
The pipes there will be over 100ºC (though under 350º).. I wonder how long qualifies as continuous?
Still, it can be done in-situ so if it does fail at least it won’t be effort wasted. I used and still have some gun gum left but half of that has fell off, as you can see I did prep the area well. I dont mind giving chem metal a try and then I can use whats left over on other jobs
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
(29-03-17, 10:13 AM)fazersharp link Wrote: Yes I am a granma sucking eggs but I am still open to focer wisdom, especially if I have always sucked eggs the same way.
That's right no rain for me but I might ride through wet damp patches and I think it also rots from the inside.
Chem metal then, sounds like I will give that a try instead of gun gum
Here is my holes last year after I had cleaned it all off with a wire wheel on a drill being on a curve how easy it it to weld a piece over it and how much would that cost over a new exhaust
![[Image: index.php?action=dlattach;topic=19727.0;...4122;image]](http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=19727.0;attach=24122;image)
Job when done last year
![[Image: index.php?action=dlattach;topic=19727.0;...4141;image]](http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=19727.0;attach=24141;image)
![[Image: index.php?action=dlattach;topic=19727.0;...4139;image]](http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=19727.0;attach=24139;image)
More water will pass through the inside of an exhaust than it will ever see on the outside, thats why short journeys are bad for your exhaust system. Did mech engineering at college and seem to remember a figure of something stupid like 8 gallons of water vapour to 1 gallon of fuel.
Have you considered removing the balance pipes and have the holes patched up, cant imagine it making that much difference to the running of the bike and should prolong the life of those pipes
I know a good welder here in Grantham (not a million miles from you) and he's not expensive
Complete fabrication, I didn't make it up!
Yeh I think ---- well it must be because I don't do rain, that most of the rot is from inside, but there is rust on the outside too giving some pitting. The balance tubes are ok, its just the collector part for now.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
Don't use rust inhibiter it will react with the paint, I know as that is what happened to mine using the Granville engine black paint.
Find a decent welder fabricator to weld a plate over, I've had that done to mine in that exact area they'll just have to mold the plate to shape.
Red Heads - Slowly taking over the world!!!
If the down pipes are still good and strong I would look at cutting out the balance tubes and welding in a new bit of tube.
(29-03-17, 08:35 PM)Skippernick link Wrote: Don't use rust inhibiter it will react with the paint, I know as that is what happened to mine using the Granville engine black paint.
Good tip
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
(29-03-17, 09:33 PM)chris.biker link Wrote: If the down pipes are still good and strong I would look at cutting out the balance tubes and welding in a new bit of tube. The balance tubes are fine - its the collector area underneath
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
I'd still go with welding a patch over it, slap on some paint and don't look at it until it starts blowing again
Complete fabrication, I didn't make it up!
Like i said before take them off give them to a decent welder fabricator and he'll weld a formed patch over it. I did mine at least 3 years ago and no problems just repaint every no and again.
Red Heads - Slowly taking over the world!!!
30-03-17, 09:46 PM
(This post was last modified: 30-03-17, 09:48 PM by fazersharp.)
I am actually interested in how well the chem metal is going to work and for how long, if it drops off then I will get it welded properly.
I have tried Granvile cylinder black and last time Rustolums (what ever ) and each time it still flakes off after 12 months so am willing to try another
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
For exhaust manifold paint have a look at Simoniz Sperex VHT ( very high temperature). Have used this on car manifolds very successfully.
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
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