The best pal of the missus has an old honda jazz which has been a great runner for many years, however she says that the handbrake isn't working on hills. As usual I've been volunteered (press ganged) into helping.
I took it for a run and to be honest I can't find much wrong, you can't push the car on the flat with the handbrake on but if it's on a steep hill you can. Don't get me wrong, the brake still holds. I'm beginning to think she doesn't pull up the handbreak far enough. As it's a disc pad hanbrake I'm loathe to tinker with the actual cables Anyone any ideas on the one? ta much Will
Treat everything in life the way a dog would- if you can't eat it or foc it, forget it.
I am no car mechanic so can not help you there but I don't trust handbrakes either so if pointing down hill I turn the wheels into the kerb and leave in reverse and if pointing up hill leave in 1st and point the wheels so it would run into the kerb might be an idea to tell her to do that until it is sorted.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
I would take the wheels off and get someone to pull the handbrake off and on, make sure when the handbrake levers on the calipers go all the way off when the brake is released, if not it could be a sticky cable or caliper, if all is good there remove the pads and make sure they are free in the brackets. A slight adjustment on the cable once thats done may also help.
If you worried about falling off your bike, you'd never get on.
(11-02-17, 05:21 PM)robby boy link Wrote: I would take the wheels off and get someone to pull the handbrake off and on, make sure when the handbrake levers on the calipers go all the way off when the brake is released, if not it could be a sticky cable or caliper, if all is good there remove the pads and make sure they are free in the brackets. A slight adjustment on the cable once thats done may also help.
:agree You need to have a look to be sure.
Those are my principles...if you don't like them I have others.
Cheers guys! I'm going to have to get the rear wheels off and have a good look, all I need is a bit of half decent weather at the weekend.
Treat everything in life the way a dog would- if you can't eat it or foc it, forget it.
(11-02-17, 03:22 PM)celticdog link Wrote: The best pal of the missus has an old honda jazz which has been a great runner for many years, however she says that the handbrake isn't working on hills. As usual I've been volunteered (press ganged) into helping.
I took it for a run and to be honest I can't find much wrong, you can't push the car on the flat with the handbrake on but if it's on a steep hill you can. Don't get me wrong, the brake still holds. I'm beginning to think she doesn't pull up the handbreak far enough. As it's a disc pad hanbrake I'm loathe to tinker with the actual cables Anyone any ideas on the one? ta much Will
If it is as you say really old car sometimes the hand brake cables just need adjusting, as they tend to stretch over time. The first thing to look at is how far does the handbrake lever pull up from the fully down position? If it's quite a way up it could just need adjusting. Once levers start to pull past the 90 degree stage they are ineffective, so no matter how hard you pull the brake lever you are exerting little to no force. A lot of jap cars have the cable adjustment on the back of the handbrake lever it's self,
Tunnel off and you will most likely find one adjustment nut with a lock nut against it connected to a sort of see-saw arrangement with the cables that go to the back wheels connected to either end of the see-saw lever.
To be sure just Google how to adjust handbrake on a Honda Jazz it may possibly come up with a YouTube video.
If its good enough to pass the mot then leave it alone, use 5th gear as a parking brake pulling the handbrake on one a week to stop it sticking.
Complete fabrication, I didn't make it up!
Handbrake may only be working on one side so you need to get the wheels off and check the cable is actually doing something on both sides.
Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again
(13-02-17, 09:27 AM)BBROWN1664 link Wrote: Handbrake may only be working on one side so you need to get the wheels off and check the cable is actually doing something on both sides.
I know the handbrake only needs to pull about 10% of the foot pedal to pass an MOT but some people really rely on it for hill starts.
sometimes mechanics can put the back brake shoes on the wrong way round and this can cause the handbrake to malfunction under load (on a hill)
Why should the fact that it's a disc brake have any bearing on adjusting the cables? I did it on my Xsara Picasso without any problems. I do know that some disc brakes had problems when they were hot. The disc would expand slightly and if you put the hand brake on whilst the discs were hot then once the discs cooled down the pads were not pressing so tightly against the disc.
Malc
Old enough to know better.
Some cars with rear disks actually have drums built into the disk just for the handbrake.
Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again
your correct mr bbrown my rover 75 has the rear handbrake shoes set inside the rear discs
(13-02-17, 05:48 PM)crickleymal link Wrote: Why should the fact that it's a disc brake have any bearing on adjusting the cables? I did it on my Xsara Picasso without any problems. I do know that some disc brakes had problems when they were hot. The disc would expand slightly and if you put the hand brake on whilst the discs were hot then once the discs cooled down the pads were not pressing so tightly against the disc.
Nice one crickleymal,
I had not thought about that but it certainly makes sense, from now on I will flop the cage into gear as well as handbrake when parking :thumbup
(13-02-17, 05:48 PM)crickleymal link Wrote: Why should the fact that it's a disc brake have any bearing on adjusting the cables? I did it on my Xsara Picasso without any problems. I do know that some disc brakes had problems when they were hot. The disc would expand slightly and if you put the hand brake on whilst the discs were hot then once the discs cooled down the pads were not pressing so tightly against the disc.
The Citroen Xantia had this issue and suffered a recall. The fix was to remove I think the first 3 or 4 notches on the hand brake to ensure you applied enough pressure. We had them as fleet cars 20yrs ago and 2 of the lads woke up the next morning to find them down the hill from where they were parked :lol
Those are my principles...if you don't like them I have others.
Hi could the problem with the rear discs be the piston pad positions? Apparently they need to be 'wound back' rather than forced back like the fronts. I'm guessing here but if the piston has been forced back rather than wound, would it effect the mechanical breaking i.e. the handbrake efficiency?
Treat everything in life the way a dog would- if you can't eat it or foc it, forget it.
It depends on how the handbrake works and if the pistons have been focced.
When I have done brakes like this it is impossible to push the piston back, you have to wind it on the thread. If you did manage to push the piston back, you would knacker the thread and could bugger the calliper to the point you effectively seize the piston and neither the foot brake or handbrake would do anything on that side of the disk.
Some handbrakes work on both pads on both sides, some work on one pad on each side, some use shoes in a drum in the middle of the disk. Get the back wheel off and have a look at how this one is set up. Then adjust the cables. The adjuster will either be at the back wheel, under the car or under the handbrake cover.
Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again
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