what did you do with your fazer today ?

[fatbloke62]

For the first time in more years I care to remember I binned the 1000 on my way to work this morning :'(

[slappy]

For the first time in more years I care to remember I binned the 1000 on my way to work this morning :'(

Thats not good,  how are you and the bike?  Hopefully both of you just suffered minor damage.

[Graham53]

[quote author=fatbloke62 link=topic=6412.msg249244#msg249244 date=1483804331]
For the first time in more years I care to remember I binned the 1000 on my way to work this morning :'(

Thats not good,  how are you and the bike?  Hopefully both of you just suffered minor damage.
[/quote]
Looking through the for sale and wanted section I think he's ok but the bikes a bit poorly as he's put up a post there looking for some parts that include handlebars and side casing if anyone's got any bits to help him out

[fatbloke62]

Thanks , the shoulder came out but when I stood up and  moved it went back in xray confirmed no break just soft tissue damage still feels like I've had a good hiding though ,Its shit getting old you don't bounce like you did when you where younger
and I still can't work out why it let go I've gone round that island hundreds of times in all weathers

[Graham53]

Sorry to hear about it mate , I know what you mean about getting old. After having a recent brush with the reaper in my car I was stiff for a week and while it's small comfort ,at least your still here to tell the tale the rest is metal and replaceable and hopefully someone here might be able to help you out, sorry that I've not got any spares for ya fella

[tommyardin]

Thanks , the shoulder came out but when I stood up and  moved it went back in xray confirmed no break just soft tissue damage still feels like I've had a good hiding though ,Its shit getting old you don't bounce like you did when you where younger
and I still can't work out why it let go I've gone round that island hundreds of times in all weathers

There is a large roundabout down on the South Coast quite close to Chichester that I have been around many many times with no problems at all. One evening a couple of years ago it had been a nice sunny day, into the roundabout as normal nothing on the roundabout just started applying a bit of power coming out and the back stepped out took me completely by surprise a mate following on his Aprillia 1K saw it kick so touched his brakes and nearly lost the front end. We pulled off the roundabout parked up and went back to check there was a thin hardly visible film of diesel over about a area of about 7 foot wide by 12 foot long. We recon it was a small spillage early in the day (big pertol station very close by) but had been spread out by the traffic through out the day, but it also looked as if the diesel had softened the tarmac. I wonder how many bikers arseoles Clintched because of that spillage. Only takes a little

[celticdog]

I've fitted new chain and sprockets to the old girl and I'm going to take her for a spin this afternoon 
I can't complain, almost 40k on the original chain. Unfortunately I never managed to get hold of a 12mm front sprocket nut so i'm running on the original nut.
It's defo on my to do list. . .

[tommyardin]

Do you take the seats out of the car and use them in the house, :eek miserable git :pokefun

Steady Unfazed you nearly took my bloody eye out with that stick  :eek

[tommyardin]

I have been playing about with the ignition switch/Key lock on my 2002-2003 FZS600 Foxeye today, the key has stated jamming/sticking in the lock recently, I have run a bit of gun oil into the lock that did not make a huge amount of difference to be honest.
So have been trying to find a supplier for a new ignition lock, there appears to be different locks for different years of the FZS600, my understanding is that the most common is the lock with two leads and two push together plastic connectors, connector 1 has 4 connectors/wires, connector 2 has 2 connectors/wires. It seems from what I have read that the 2002-2003 FZS600 Foxeyes have an extra wire than the Boxeyes, so connector 1 has 4 connectors /wires and connector 2 has 3 wires.I not convinced but I think the extra wire maybe some thing to do with the side lights (But no sure about that) I have not removed the lock from the bike as I want to keep it on the road, so I have been doing some searches on here about Ignition locks and the advice seems to be dipping the key into clean engine oil rather than putting oil into the lock and also gently pushing the key forward when turning it, this did not do anything to help mine, but I tried gently pulling the back towards the tank and  :thumbup  it works a treat, the lock turns without any snagging at all, have tried it 15 or 20 times and it just works. I will be able to source a new lock/switch now without being in a desperate rush.So a result, thanks guys for the tips. 

[fazersharp]

Rather than oil the best thing for locks is a dry lube called graphite. One of our riders called Locksmith on here is the expert who told me that. Normal domestic locks anyway, no reason it wont work on a bike lock 

[tommyardin]

Rather than oil the best thing for locks is a dry lube called graphite. One of our riders called Locksmith on here is the expert who told me that. Normal domestic locks anyway, no reason it wont work on a bike lock

Graphite I believe is possibly a mixture with other thingsthat a pencil lead is made. Years ago it was said that if a plug wasn't sparking very well to rub a pencil on the electrodes and it would help the situation. I would have thought that it would have been burnt off with the first bang.

[darrsi]

I have been playing about with the ignition switch/Key lock on my 2002-2003 FZS600 Foxeye today, the key has stated jamming/sticking in the lock recently, I have run a bit of gun oil into the lock that did not make a huge amount of difference to be honest.
So have been trying to find a supplier for a new ignition lock, there appears to be different locks for different years of the FZS600, my understanding is that the most common is the lock with two leads and two push together plastic connectors, connector 1 has 4 connectors/wires, connector 2 has 2 connectors/wires. It seems from what I have read that the 2002-2003 FZS600 Foxeyes have an extra wire than the Boxeyes, so connector 1 has 4 connectors /wires and connector 2 has 3 wires.I not convinced but I think the extra wire maybe some thing to do with the side lights (But no sure about that) I have not removed the lock from the bike as I want to keep it on the road, so I have been doing some searches on here about Ignition locks and the advice seems to be dipping the key into clean engine oil rather than putting oil into the lock and also gently pushing the key forward when turning it, this did not do anything to help mine, but I tried gently pulling the back towards the tank and  :thumbup  it works a treat, the lock turns without any snagging at all, have tried it 15 or 20 times and it just works. I will be able to source a new lock/switch now without being in a desperate rush.So a result, thanks guys for the tips. 

Yeah, I was about to suggest just turning the steering a few mm to the left and it does take the strain off the key in the lock, it's what I have to do with mine too.

[Dudeofrude]

Rather than oil the best thing for locks is a dry lube called graphite. One of our riders called Locksmith on here is the expert who told me that. Normal domestic locks anyway, no reason it wont work on a bike lock

Yeah graphite lock spray is amazing. I had the same problem as Tommy on my old thundercat and a quick squirt of graphite spray solved it instantly. Then used to have to use it about once a month or after a washing it.
Think it only cost about £4 too

[fazersharp]

[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=6412.msg249810#msg249810 date=1484321118]
Rather than oil the best thing for locks is a dry lube called graphite. One of our riders called Locksmith on here is the expert who told me that. Normal domestic locks anyway, no reason it wont work on a bike lock

Yeah graphite lock spray is amazing. I had the same problem as Tommy on my old thundercat and a quick squirt of graphite spray solved it instantly. Then used to have to use it about once a month or after a washing it.
Think it only cost about £4 too
[/quote]
The word "spray" -- more like a puff as it is a dust like product, unless you have something else. I got this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graphite-Powde...Sw-jhUAHmq

[tommyardin]

[quote author=Dudeofrude link=topic=6412.msg249826#msg249826 date=1484329869]
[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=6412.msg249810#msg249810 date=1484321118]
Rather than oil the best thing for locks is a dry lube called graphite. One of our riders called Locksmith on here is the expert who told me that. Normal domestic locks anyway, no reason it wont work on a bike lock

Yeah graphite lock spray is amazing. I had the same problem as Tommy on my old thundercat and a quick squirt of graphite spray solved it instantly. Then used to have to use it about once a month or after a washing it.
Think it only cost about £4 too
[/quote]
The word "spray" -- more like a puff as it is a dust like product, unless you have something else. I got this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graphite-Powde...Sw-jhUAHmq
[/quote]


That is the exact one that I just purchased on evilBay Sharpie, I will wait until the powder is delivered and I will try to was the oil out with copious amounts of WD40 and leave it for a while before puff dusting the lock with the graphite dust. I believe that WD dries out a a reasonably fast rate, but maybe I should do it now give it more time to dry up. :thumbup
Cheers for the tip Darrsi I will try that as well

[Dudeofrude]

[quote author=Dudeofrude link=topic=6412.msg249826#msg249826 date=1484329869]
[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=6412.msg249810#msg249810 date=1484321118]
Rather than oil the best thing for locks is a dry lube called graphite. One of our riders called Locksmith on here is the expert who told me that. Normal domestic locks anyway, no reason it wont work on a bike lock

Yeah graphite lock spray is amazing. I had the same problem as Tommy on my old thundercat and a quick squirt of graphite spray solved it instantly. Then used to have to use it about once a month or after a washing it.
Think it only cost about £4 too
[/quote]
The word "spray" -- more like a puff as it is a dust like product, unless you have something else. I got this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graphite-Powde...Sw-jhUAHmq
[/quote]

Yeah mine was in a small aerosol can. Was more of a puff than a wet spray but was pretty much the same stuff as you guys bought

[fazersharp]

[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=6412.msg249827#msg249827 date=1484330374]
[quote author=Dudeofrude link=topic=6412.msg249826#msg249826 date=1484329869]
[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=6412.msg249810#msg249810 date=1484321118]
Rather than oil the best thing for locks is a dry lube called graphite. One of our riders called Locksmith on here is the expert who told me that. Normal domestic locks anyway, no reason it wont work on a bike lock

Yeah graphite lock spray is amazing. I had the same problem as Tommy on my old thundercat and a quick squirt of graphite spray solved it instantly. Then used to have to use it about once a month or after a washing it.
Think it only cost about £4 too
[/quote]
The word "spray" -- more like a puff as it is a dust like product, unless you have something else. I got this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graphite-Powde...Sw-jhUAHmq
[/quote]


That is the exact one that I just purchased on evilBay Sharpie, I will wait until the powder is delivered and I will try to was the oil out with copious amounts of WD40 and leave it for a while before puff dusting the lock with the graphite dust. I believe that WD dries out a a reasonably fast rate, but maybe I should do it now give it more time to dry up. :thumbup
Cheers for the tip Darrsi I will try that as well
[/quote]
I wouldnt add it to anything else in there or you will end up with a thick porrage.
Maybe some contact cleaner which will readily evaporate ? 

[Fazer99]

I've fitted new chain and sprockets to the old girl and I'm going to take her for a spin this afternoon 
I can't complain, almost 40k on the original chain. Unfortunately I never managed to get hold of a 12mm front sprocket nut so i'm running on the original nut.
It's defo on my to do list. . .

Just done my chain & sprockets and with the 12mm nut. I got the nut from wemoto.com http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_6...t_kit_oem/ it takes a few days as they state that it's not a stock item and they have to order it in but I ordered it on the Saturday it was processed on the Monday morning and delivered Wednesday.

[tommyardin]

Just used half a 250ml can of WD40 to wash the Ignition Key/Switch out (I put a lot of gun oil in there earlier today) I pushed the thin applicator pipe right down into the switch and wigged it up and as spraying and it washed load of muck and scummy stuff out of the bottom on the switch barrel I wedged about 12 folded sheets of kitchen roll under the switch on top of the lower headlamp mounting bracket and the tissue was soaked in really dirty slimy WD40, I kept doing it untill the WD came out clean.


I will pop into Maplins tomorrow and pick up a can of spray electrical switch cleaner and give it a really good clean out with that also, hopefully by next Wednesday my graphite lube will have arrived so the i can apply that and hopefully all will be well.


[size=1em]But as said in an earlier post into this forum, once the key is fully in the lock just gently pulling backwards towards the fuel tank made the key turn really easy without any snagging what-so-ever.
So I'm guessing that both the lock and key are probably worn, but I think this work around will do while I find source for the 7 wire ignition switch, although they seem as rare as rocking horse poo.
Think I removed the tissues to soon WD now dripping off my fender extender, but at least its clean. :lol [/size]

[fazersharp]

Sounds like a good thorough job, dont over puff the graphite in you will be surprised how little you need to make a big difference