Complete lack of start up.

[darrsi]

Humour me, and try a jump lead start!

[DangerNoodle]

I don't have any leads Darsi, otherwise I would do.

[Paul]

If you want to bypass the starter cut out relay and circuits:
Connect the white/blue wire from the solenoid to the white/blue wire in the brown plug in wiring junction box under the tank


The white/blue wire in the brown plug runs to the starter button


I had a very similar problem last week.
Ultimately it turned out to be one of the alarm loop wires under the seat near the cdi box (the plug had come partially disconnected)

[darrsi]

I don't have any leads Darsi, otherwise I would do.

That's what neighbours are for. 

[DangerNoodle]

Haha agreed but the guy went and got a girlfriend and is more often at her house now :')

[unfazed]

It could be dodgy kill switch, but it would not cause the fuse to blow.

To give a little insight
The Ignition fuse you replaced supplies power to the solenoid and ECU (ignitor would be the correct term for the one in the fazer).
It also supplies power via the kill switch to the coils and the two relays in Starter cut box under the left side panel.
The relays in the Starter Cut box are the solenoid primary relay and the fuel pump relay.
Pressing the starter button supplies an earth via contacts of the solenoid primary relay to operate the Solenoid, which means this relay needs to be working for the solenoid to operate

A faulty side stand switch will not stop the engine turning over/starting if neutral light is on.

Check as Paul said the whitish looped connectors under the seat on the left side behind the frame cross brace to ensure they are connected properly and not corroded as these looped plugs are part of the starter and ignition circuits.

A simple way to test the kill switch if you do not have a meter or tester is to drain one bowl of the carbs.
Turn off the kill switch
Turn on the ignition switch
Turn on the kill switch, if kill switch is working the fuel pump will start clicking.
If it does not click check the fuse again.

If you have proved the kill switch to be working ok then try bypassing the solenoid with an insulated pliars or something strong but insulated like a piece of thick wire which will bridge the connectors. It will make a lot of sparking so beware. Let us know how you get on.

Word of warning, be extremely carefull not to earth the item you are bridging the solenoid contacts with

[DangerNoodle]

Okay so if I'm reading this correctly the problem is somewhere in the ignition circuit rather than an issue with a stand? I need to check the white looped plugs then try, if that doesn't work drain a carb and test the kill switch? By the way, does the switch have a fuse within its assembly or is the fuse box the only place?

[DangerNoodle]

Loop plugs as I found them. They all seem secure. Put the battery back on the optimiser as it showed up as needing a top up I think I'll buy a batter just as a matter of course now.

[unfazed]

The fuse you replaced is used by the kill switch to supply power to the coils and start cut out circuit. Nothing in the assembly just small pieces including a small spring

[Fazerider]

If the ignition fuse blew I'd be checking around the headstock/ignition switch area for a broken wire that managed to make contact with something earthed. The parts of the wiring harness that get flexed regularly are the most likely places to get trouble, but it's also worth checking anywhere it can get pinched.

[DangerNoodle]

Had a look around the ignition cable and found this... (see photo) so I'm going to re connect it while the new battery arrives (any recommendations?

[slappy]

Strip both ends back about 3/8" then solder together and cover it with heat shrink, don't forget to slip the heat shrink over one of the wires first.
I would check all the other wires there for damage as well and see if you could  move the wires enough to stop them getting chafed again in the future,

[DangerNoodle]

Cheers mate got the wire stripped back and ready to go, just need to order some shrink because I don't own any.

That being said, have you any experience with the shrink and solder tubes?

[slappy]

Never used the solder tubes but they should work, probably a bit easier to use as well.

[tommyardin]

Haha agreed but the guy went and got a girlfriend and is more often at her house now :')

Go break into his shed then  :rolleyes

[unfazed]

Had a look around the ignition cable and found this... (see photo) so I'm going to re connect it while the new battery arrives (any recommendations?

That would be your problem and why the fuse blew. Looks like its been pinched  due to poor routing rather than chaffing since it looks more like a cut.
With limited tools the Solder tube is probably your easiest option and permanent. Take care to route it properly when complete.

Is it the cable to the switch gear or the Ignition switch difficult to tell from the picture?

[darrsi]

I've not seen those solder/heat shrink tubes before, they look like a great invention, as long as you own a heat gun.  :thumbup

[unfazed]

A candle would even do to heat the solder and shrink the insulation, most important is to keep it away from the flame itself, might take a little longer, but will work 

[fazersharp]

I like the look of those heat/shrink solder joiners. I often think about getting one of those trendy kitchen blowtorches for little jobs like this but looks like a lighter will do it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9J9zOW3-74

[Jules-C]

Just splicing the wires together will put a rigid section where the loom flexes with the steering which will possibly end up with the same problem again unless the loom can be rerouted so it flexes on another section away from the repair.

Alternatively replace a longer length of the broken wire so it's a bit of new wire that is doing the bending but this means two splices instead of one.