front sprocket nut

[chrischristopherson1313]

Might just be the picture but do the threads on that shaft look stripped to anyone? I'd be keeping a close eye on that I think they look pretty worn

Luckily was good as new. Put new bigger nut on it.
It's propobly only picture quality.

[unfazed]

Chain slack its ok
IT'S still 2 lines to limit. It's better when I changed sprockets.
I will check that 150mm when have time.
Thanks

The lines are not for the limit of the chain they are only for lining up the rear wheel to ensure it is in straight., :eek

Fazer 600 Chains on standard sprockets are well worn long before the adjustment lines get down too two showing. :rolleyes

Any chain on standard sprockets that far back on the adjusters is a failure waiting to happen. :eek

Ignore the numbers for chain slack, when on the centre stand, Engine off, rotate the wheel until you can feel the tightest section of the chain. Now push the chain up to the swinging arm, it should just touch the rubber protector on the swinging arm without too much force.
If it does not touch the rubber protector the chain is to tight.  :thumbup

[tommyardin]

Looking at the photos that Chris has submitted I would be really concerned (unless they are really really poor quality pics) the treads on the shaft look almost non existent as do the threads on the old Nut that is balanced on his knee in the pics (Not that the nut matters as its being replaced) but the shaft really is important, it's a fine thread anyway and it should be torqued up to 94 Km. :eek :eek :eek 


Really clean that thread properly (Meth or trichloroethylene) so there in no sigh of any oil, grease or dirt on the shaft thread and the same with[size=1em] the nut (I know is a new nut) as there may be cutting oil on it from where it was factory threaded, use lock tight on the thread and be generous with it, torque setting should factory recommendation 94Kn, but if the thread are as worn as they look in the pics I would be concerned about torquing up that high for fear of stripping the threads off the shaft, bend the new washer over at least two flats of the nut.[/size]
[size=1em]someone mentioned Locite superglue in one of the posts but the only problem with that is it may set before the nut is really tight giving a false torque setting.[/size]

[size=1em]It seems with all the reading that I have done on the web and in here that it is really really important to get this right otherwise it is a huge expense[/size] correcting it if it goes tits up on you.
I hasten to add I am only talking from reading up and not personal experience, as, I have yet to manage to get the fucking nut undone on my :faz .
But I have had a couple of great ideas how to accomplish this from friendly foccers in here.
I have not written the above to be an ogre or someone full of doom and gloom, but a :faz [size=1em] is to nice a bike to be shagged by a stupid loose nut and sprocket.[/size]
[size=1em]Best way to find out if a chain is past its sell by date is to compress/push about 10 links together measure it between the centre of two extreme link pins, then stretch it out and measure it again if it is any more that about 8mm/5/16" longer its time to change it, a broken chain will get you off quicker than a 22 year old pole dancer.[/size] :lol

[size=1em]Buy yourself a can of chain lube its much cheaper than changing chains and sprockets, I know a lot of guys brush their chains with used engine oil and I sure it lubes the chain fine, but only for as long as it stays on the chain, a quick thrash through the lanes and most of it is on you back wheel rim. I personally like the Motul chain lube is stays dark when dry and sticks like s--t to a blanket, it also means no dirty rear wheel and less chance of an inconvenient broken chain. [/size]

[size=1em]And this cat thinks I'm fucking stupid.  [/size]

[chrischristopherson1313]

Looking at the photos that Chris has submitted I would be really concerned (unless they are really really poor quality pics) the treads on the shaft look almost non existent as do the threads on the old Nut that is balanced on his knee in the pics (Not that the nut matters as its being replaced) but the shaft really is important, it's a fine thread anyway and it should be torqued up to 94 Km. :eek :eek :eek 


Really clean that thread properly (Meth or trichloroethylene) so there in no sigh of any oil, grease or dirt on the shaft thread and the same with[size=1em] the nut (I know is a new nut) as there may be cutting oil on it from where it was factory threaded, use lock tight on the thread and be generous with it, torque setting should factory recommendation 94Kn, but if the thread are as worn as they look in the pics I would be concerned about torquing up that high for fear of stripping the threads off the shaft, bend the new washer over at least two flats of the nut.[/size]
[size=1em]someone mentioned Locite superglue in one of the posts but the only problem with that is it may set before the nut is really tight giving a false torque setting.[/size]

[size=1em]It seems with all the reading that I have done on the web and in here that it is really really important to get this right otherwise it is a huge expense[/size] correcting it if it goes tits up on you.
I hasten to add I am only talking from reading up and not personal experience, as, I have yet to manage to get the fucking nut undone on my :faz .
But I have had a couple of great ideas how to accomplish this from friendly foccers in here.
I have not written the above to be an ogre or someone full of doom and gloom, but a :faz [size=1em] is to nice a bike to be shagged by a stupid loose nut and sprocket.[/size]
[size=1em]Best way to find out if a chain is past its sell by date is to compress/push about 10 links together measure it between the centre of two extreme link pins, then stretch it out and measure it again if it is any more that about 8mm/5/16" longer its time to change it, a broken chain will get you off quicker than a 22 year old pole dancer.[/size] :lol

[size=1em]Buy yourself a can of chain lube its much cheaper than changing chains and sprockets, I know a lot of guys brush their chains with used engine oil and I sure it lubes the chain fine, but only for as long as it stays on the chain, a quick thrash through the lanes and most of it is on you back wheel rim. I personally like the Motul chain lube is stays dark when dry and sticks like s--t to a blanket, it also means no dirty rear wheel and less chance of an inconvenient broken chain. [/size]

[size=1em]And this cat thinks I'm fucking stupid.  [/size]

Thanks  for advise
I was suprised as well but the tread on shaft was in very good condition.
Picture wasn't clear enough to see it.

[tommyardin]

94Nm not Km

[tommyardin]

Sounds like a result then Chris I really pleased for you. But your chain in the pic of the rear sprocket needs some TLC.


The picture of my rear sprocket was lubed with Motul about 300/350 miles ago and the stuff is still on the chain.
Useful tip on checking chain tension from Unfazed, thanks for that mate.
Tight chain will trash rear wheel bearings as well as gear box bearings and Foc up chains and sprockets, and an aside it will certainly lose you power to. :uhuh :moon
I will shut the Foc up now and go to bed  :z  I'm still thinking about that pole dancer. :evil

[unfazed]

The torque on the 12mm nut is 90Nm not 94Nm

[tommyardin]

Unfazed to the rescue again cheers buddy 90 it is then :thumbup

[fazersharp]

Unfazed to the rescue again cheers buddy 90 it is then :thumbup

There was a thread on this some time ago and if I remember right the old thin nut was 70NM and the new fat one 90nm, people were questioning the 90nm as being a bit over the top and in its self risked stripping the thread so as a compermise people went for 80nm
Here found it ---- http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,14924...#msg169018

More (other) nut stuff here

[chrischristopherson1313]

Good job that you have changed the nut  :thumbup

Two questions. I see on the pictures the rear wheel is almost at the end of the stretching the chain? Not sure from the picture is that the case.

Do you have enough chain slack, it must be 30-40mm. Do you have measured your chain wear? 10 links must be no more than 150mm long. If it is more the chain has been stretched too far and needs change.

So you were right. 10 links was 200mm long.
I have closely check the chain and was shocked that I didn't see before how worn was it.
All change now. Completly different bike now

[sinto607276]

Help needed

http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,17296.210.html

Reply #219

[fazersharp]

I was working underneath the bike on the stand and noticed that I can see the nut from underneath, partly cause its clean in there

[unfazed]

Nice old 9mm nut on there :lol

[polecat 1]

Bought mine last November (2001 600, 14000 on the clock) and checked it due to reading about it on here and it was loose. Bought the 12mm one , was less than 3 quid if I remember right, including the lock washer, so stupid not to do it. Can also recommend the windy gun for undoing front sprocket nuts that won't come undone, had same problem twice with RD250F and a 350 powervalve, really struggled until someone else suggested a windy gun, borrowed a cordless one from work and it came off instantly, ended up buying one for my compressor off ebay for about 22 quid (including some sockets) and it has helped out one or two friends now.