Sprocket gearing

[Val]

That's what I was thinking -1 on the front wont make much difference to the rear wheel position along its ajustment slot, but to get the same result by just doing the rear sprock by going +3 then surly that would be just too much for the chain to fit.
Is there such a thing as -1 front and +1 back

Any combination is possible. The only thing you needs to check in http://www.gearingcommander.com/ is does that combination have bad same link same tooth combination. -1 14tooth and +1 49 is a good combination.

Bad combinations happen when number of the chain links (we have 110 links in FZS 600) can be divided by the number of the sprocket tooth.

Say front 11 tooth and rear 55 tooth is very bad. Actually it is the worst one that you can have. It gives same link same tooth number 1 for BOTH sprockets. Means on each rotation absolutely the same tooth front AND rear will hit the same chain link.

[fazersharp]

All of that same link-same tooth never even crossed my mind.
What does the standard fzs 600 combo give

[Val]

All of that same link-same tooth never even crossed my mind.
What does the standard fzs 600 combo give

Standard has 3 front and 24 rear. Doing -1 front makes the front 7. Doing +1 rear makes the rear 49. Much better than standard 

[Slaninar]

[quote author=fazersharp link=topic=19950.msg230760#msg230760 date=1461935961]
All of that same link-same tooth never even crossed my mind.
What does the standard fzs 600 combo give

Standard has 3 front and 24 rear. Doing -1 front makes the front 7. Doing +1 rear makes the rear 49. Much better than standard 
[/quote]


With a +3 rear it's 51 at the back, but you might have to get a chain that's riveted together and make it one link longer than standard. Maybe.


As far as sprocket wear goes, the front sprocket is critical - rear one outlives the front by far any way. And not only due to same link same tooth effect I believe.

[matt7chunk]

Some great info here , all I want to do is bring the revs down a tad at 70, would -2 rear be a bad thing?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Slaninar]

Some great info here , all I want to do is bring the revs down a tad at 70, would -2 rear be a bad thing?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It should be fine. Some 200 revs lower if I got it right.

[joebloggs]

Some great info here , all I want to do is bring the revs down a tad at 70, would -2 rear be a bad thing?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Swap the front and back round, should lower your revs slightly  :b

[tommyardin]

+ 10 on the rear means big wheelies so less front tyre wear....................

Well done Joe, your the man you sorted the economy issues + 10 or 15 on the back = no front tyre wear, you can also do away with whole front brake assembly as its no longer needed, leaky fork oil seals? Weld forks up not needed. Only drawback is it might be difficult to get the headlamps adjusted about right.
Right that's my next project sorted :rollin

[misterjayb1]

The main reason I only went +1 / -1 on front sprockets was to keep the same chain, as mentioned..

[paulchucky]

I have -1 front 14 tooth front. That gives me little more torque and more faster acceleration, but makes my revs a little higher than standard and top speed little lower. About 300 revs more in 6th and 500 revs more in 2nd. Acoording to gearing commander http://www.gearingcommander.com/ that also makes my top speed lower 133mph compared to 143mph standard.

I really do over 100 so not bothered at all  :lol

That improves the acceleration in foots per second from 22 to 25 ft/s2 according to:

http://motorcycleperformanceanalyzer.com...azer-1998/

14 tooth
9100 rpm
59mph
500 lbf
25 ft/s2

Standard:
9100 rpm
62mph
460 lbf
22 ft/s2

If you change ratio 1 tooth change in front equals 3 tooth change rear. Means -1 front = +3 rear. You can do both obviusly if you want bigger impact.

Moto gymkhana guys go say for smaller front and really huge rear sprocket. That gaves them huge acceleration and more torque. Not very suitable for road riding.

I am thinking about doing gymkhana at some point and have the 51 rear sprocket ready. I reckon because its not very drastical change I'll be able to ride on the road with it too 

Finally you can go the other way to have bigger front and smaller rear. This will make your ride more relaxed with less revs on the motorway.

If you want relaxed ride I suggest the Fazer 600 is not for you  :lol

The whole point of small capacity IL4 engine is to go in high revs and scream. It is detuned supersport engine.

You need relaxed ride get low revs twin engine. Like Honda Dullville  :rollin

Or really big liter bike one like FZS 1000. Or Bandit 1250. These are relaxed motoway tools if you want them to be.

yeah the fazer is not a motorway ride !  its a fun bike  and needs some throtle to be enjoyed to the max    but how come yours only revs to 9100 ???  get up to the berries  :lol :lol :lol

[Millietant]

That link just re-inforces my view that rather than mess about with a smaller front or bigger rear sprocket, why not just choose to ride around in one gear lower - then you have the response you desire - all you're doing by changing the sprockets is raising the RPM's for any given speed - just the same as riding around in a lower gear for any given road speed. It's the riders choice that makes the difference.

Personally, I always put a larger sprocket on the front of my in-line fours, to give a more relaxed feel to motorway cruising, but when I'm riding either on track, or on non-motorway's I always ride by engine feel and sound, not by what gear I'm in. The police and most riding schools teach you to ride with the engine revs matching the response you want/need for traffic and road conditions - if you do that you don't need to mess about with smaller front or larger rear sprockets.

Just my opinion and I know many others disagree - but I've always found it works for me. 

[Slaninar]

That link just re-inforces my view that rather than mess about with a smaller front or bigger rear sprocket, why not just choose to ride around in one gear lower - then you have the response you desire - all you're doing by changing the sprockets is raising the RPM's for any given speed - just the same as riding around in a lower gear for any given road speed. It's the riders choice that makes the difference.

1st to 2nd is a hassle to change on FZS gearbox. Putting bigger rear sprocket makes it possible to stay almost always in 2nd when riding slowly in the city.

[fazersharp]

Im not interested in going -1F--+ 1 R for any changing revs at any given speed or making it easier staying in 2nd in traffic or any of that, the reason I am thinking of doing it to gain the smiles and not the revs - not bothered what it does to the revs or MPG, just my grin  .
If you do a lot of motorway I can see the need to bring down the revs maybe

[joebloggs]

If you need 1st in slow traffic I'd say you need to practice your clutch control :evil

[Slaninar]

If you need 1st in slow traffic I'd say you need to practice your clutch control :evil

1st when going 5 to 10 km/h, or climbing. With bigger rear chainring I could ride in 2nd until completely stopped and it was more comfortable for city/heavy traffic riding.

[joebloggs]

[quote author=joebloggs link=topic=19950.msg231378#msg231378 date=1462533020]
If you need 1st in slow traffic I'd say you need to practice your clutch control :evil

1st when going 5 to 10 km/h, or climbing. With bigger rear chainring I could ride in 2nd until completely stopped and it was more comfortable for city/heavy traffic riding.
[/

Slip the clutch then coast works for me. If I was to lower the gearing it would be for initial pick up in the lower gears