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New clutch not working at all!
#21
This has turned into a real nightmare and will now put me off trying home mechanics I think. Basically in the end I asked the garage to collect my bike and do my clutch for me because I was stressed with it and unable to ride to work, its my only transport. The garage have come back to say that the ball bearing is missing ( I know someone here mentioned that, but I never saw any ball bearing when I took off the old clutch plates so as far as i was concerned nothing fell out). They are saying that they may need to open the sump and see if has fallen in there and take the exhaust off etc. Are these likely scenarios or is this all getting a bit ott?


I have had a good look in my garden for a ball bearing but nothing found, that maybe due to the very high winds at the weekend though, I will never know.
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#22
If you fix your own stuff you have to be prepared for it to go wrong the odd time when you're learning. Your mistake caused you hassle but it was only a small mistake so don't let it put you off. As far as I know the ball bearing can only fall out on the sprocket side of the engine not on the clutch side so I don't think it could have fallen into the sump.
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#23
EDIT just read your post dudeness so I was un-aware it cannot fall out on the plate side
I was writing this as you posted

The ball baring sits on the end of the pushrod, here is a picture of mine with the pushrod whth drawn from the cable side, you can see how long it is and it gos all the way through to the other side (plate side) and has a ball baring on the end, in my case the push rod came out leaving the baring still inside, in your case when you removed everything your were at the ball baring end which sounds like it either fell out onto your patio or fell into the sump.
To save extra cost in taking the sump off I would get on my hands and knees with a good strong magnet and sweep the patio - or where ever, inch by inch the point is they have to rule out it still being in the sump so if you can find it that will save them taking the sump off.
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I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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#24

I'm pretty sure the ball can come out either side of the engine. If the sprocket cover's off and the long pushrod removed, the ball can come with it... likewise if you take the clutch pressure plate off, the short pushrod can come with it and the ball can be loosely attached to the end of that.


If you give your bike to someone else to mend you run the risk that they may not know what they're doing either.
As Bretty says, loss of the ball bearing would mean the clutch won't disengage... the opposite of the problem you're describing. This sounds much more as if the plate still isn't on right or that you were unlucky and it didn't survive getting tightened down in the wrong position. Did you take a good look at it or spot any broken bits of alloy in middle of the clutch plates?
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#25
The sprocket cover was not off at all during my work on the bike, i only had the clutch plate side engine cover off. I will mention this to the mechanic tomorrow. After saturday morning and not being able to get the clutch to disengage, i put the cover back on and asked the garage to collect i that afternoon, I was just too annoyed about it at that point and decided to get a professional to do the job for me. 
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#26
Most important is buy a manual and/or download the one in the downloads section. Watching a youtube video is not the best way to go and should only be used with a manual, I am not saying not to watch them but a manual is something which shows all the pieces associated with what you are dismantling. The fellow in the youtube video you watched was neither an experienced DIYer or Mechanic. However do not let it put you off and learn from the experience
See pic below


Attached Files
.jpg   Clutch problem.jpg (Size: 96.82 KB / Downloads: 151)
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#27
No I did not remove that part, i did not touch any part inside there where the bolts go, I didnt need to, I just undid the bolts removed them with the springs, then gently prised off the pressure plate and then slipped the friction plates off, slipped new ones on, screwed pressure plate back on with springs.
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#28
The ball bearing can come out from either side, chances are is was stuck to the shorter of the 2 push rods. I would be more concerned with where it went, If it dropped down into the sump in has the potential to cause a whole load of problems
Owner of Motorcycle Republic, Specialist in unfucking things that others have fucked up.
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#29
(30-03-16, 09:44 PM)sc0ttie link Wrote: No I did not remove that part, i did not touch any part inside there where the bolts go, I didnt need to, I just undid the bolts removed them with the springs, then gently prised off the pressure plate and then slipped the friction plates off, slipped new ones on, screwed pressure plate back on with springs.
In that case you didn't lose the ball bearing. If it's missing now then it's the garage that dropped it.
Not that the absence of ball has anything to do with the problem of no drive to the back wheel. :rolleyes
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#30
It's a 5/16 inch diameter ball if you need to find a replacement, 93505-16006.
Do you have a magnetic sump plug? Could be stuck to it with a bit of luck, lets hope you find it either way.
Treat everything in life the way a dog would- if you can't eat it or foc it, forget it.
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#31
Like Fazerider said, if You did not remove the part in the middle - garage must have lost the ball. I had same problem after fitting new plates and EBC springs. Could not figure it out for ages. In the end went back to old springs (actually to 6 long ones off Thundercat - they are identical - loong story Wink ... and it worked. It seems to me that heavy duty EBC springs are too stiff.
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#32
Having re-read your original post, if its EBC springs that you fitted the listing is wrong and the springs are too long. I had this with a customers bike. In the end I had to contact EBC and get the part reference for the correct part
Owner of Motorcycle Republic, Specialist in unfucking things that others have fucked up.
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#33
(02-04-16, 07:40 AM)Deefer666 link Wrote: Having re-read your original post, if its EBC springs that you fitted the listing is wrong and the springs are too long. I had this with a customers bike. In the end I had to contact EBC and get the part reference for the correct part


I tried refitting the old friction plates though, with the old springs and the clutch still did not disengage. Anyway, the shop have now fitted me with EBC clutch kit, new oil and new springs, they collected my bike for me in their van last weekend. It came to £210 with labour costs, which was a bit of a shock, but they supplied the ebc kit, new oil and also got the ball bearing out of the sump with a magnet. As a lesson to myself, I need to be more careful when i attempt DIY mechanics at home and also, I need to not buy cheap unbranded parts. FYI the clutch plates I got were a kit costing £27 on ebay, which I obviously did to save money but it ended up costing me more than it would if I had got the garage to do it in the first place.
Thanks to everyone on here who tried to help.
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#34
Glad you got it sorted. I'm unclear as to what your problem was the clutch engaging or not engaging?  Sad
-suck-squeeze-bang-blow-
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#35
I could put it in gear and sit there revving the engine with the clutch lever out, no matter how i adjusted the cable, they bike did not move.
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#36
My new clutch was slipping, so i figured i need to adjust it at the sprocket cover, so erm, i was doing that.....(btw I have adjusted the clutch cable here a few times before, when my old clutch started to slip so i know how to do that) anyway, i guess I may have unscrewed the screw/nut too much as somehow the cable has come off where it should be attached, behind the sprocket cover.


Thinking I could just take the sprocket cover off and reattach the cable, i started to take the allen bolts off the cover, got to the last allen bolt and guess what? its rounded off very badly, my attempts to get it off with a torx fitting made it even worse. Because it is in a sunken recess it is actually quite difficult to get to. After the torx bolt failed I figured I would drill the bolt head out so that i could get the sprocket cover of and reattach that cable. I could not drill it out, i tried loads of times, either my drill bits are very blunt (could be as they are old) or that is a very strong bit of stainless steel. So the allen bolt is still stuck, rounded off from drilling now the centre now as well. What can i do to get this allen bolt off? I dont have a dremel, I dont have the money for one either.


I am going to have to take a day off work to sort this out now because the bike is un-rideable once again for the 2nd time in 2 weeks!
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#37
You are not having a good time are you.
I thought the clutch was done by a garage so why haven't they adjusted the cable properly  or sounds like they didn't even test it.

Here is some info on what you will find when you get the cover off http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,16751...#msg193276

I think you need a new drill bit
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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#38
I'm not have a good time no lol. The clutch was ok the first day, it started slipping a bit the next day, then the day after that (monday) it was slipping more so decided tonight to try and adjust the cable. The garage did say they rode around on the local A road for 5 miles or so before I collected the bike to make sure clutch was ok.


I will try a new drill bit tomorrow, wilkinsons should be open, its my nearest tool store. With some luck i can drill that bolt out and then fit the cable back in place, tension it etc. I hope...
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#39
Get the most expensive ones they do to give yourself any chance and also get a few because they may well blunt quick AND snap.
Im no engineer and hate drilling metal cause I haven't got the patience that is needed.

Someone better than me we be along soon to advise on drilling
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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#40
A picture of the bolt would be good
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