HI All, today i tried to renew my clutch but since putting it all back together and starting up, my clutch does not seem to engage at all.
I followed this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQejoxdatGM
basically, I drained my oil, removed oil filter and fitted new oil filter. Then took clutch cover off, removed clutch springs, pulled off old pates and put in my new (soaked in oil plates). Followed the video, starting with one friction plate, then steel plate, then judder spring, then the friction plate, steel plate until all on the basket. Replaced springs with new ebc uprated ones, tightened it all up. new gasket, put clutch cover back on, Put new oil in and started it up on centre stand. With the clutch lever pulled in, in first gear the back wheel was spinning. Used a bit of throttle and pulled clutch lever in at same time, nothing happened. Put bike off the stand, slowly let the clutch lever out in first gear, nothing, the bike did not react.
I have tried the clutch lever adjustment screw both ways to max/min with no change. Also tried the screw and lock nut under the rubber cover on sprocket case, still nothing. There is good tension in the cable when clutch lever pulled in, i.e. it feels like the cable travels as it used to.
Any help or advise on what I may have done wrong or should check?
25-03-16, 09:14 PM
(This post was last modified: 25-03-16, 09:18 PM by His Dudeness.)
There's been a few people on here that've cracked their pressure plates when doing the clutch and I think from stiffer springs so that's a possibility but I'd guess your plates aren't sitting quite right in the basket and the extra bit of space means the clutch won't engage. You'll have to take the cover off, take the plates out and try again. You don't have to drain the oil to do it. Just don't start the bike for a few hours and leave it on the side stand and the oil will stay in the sump and won't spill out with the cover off. Be careful doing up the bolts in the basket they snap easily. Also slacken off the cable. If it's too tight it'll slip. Maybe do that first just in case it's the cable at fault
Yep, that happened to me too. :'(
When fitting the pressure plate you need to get it aligned correctly. Before putting the screws in, check orientation by pressing on the plate with your fingers, if you can feel the friction plates are loose you're on wrong. Pull it off, rotate it and offer it up again.
Some people seem to be lucky, but often the bottom of the wells the springs live in will fracture when tightening up the bolts with the pressure plate in the wrong position.
25-03-16, 10:27 PM
(This post was last modified: 25-03-16, 10:58 PM by sc0ttie.)
(25-03-16, 09:50 PM)Fazerider link Wrote: Yep, that happened to me too. :'(
When fitting the pressure plate you need to get it aligned correctly. Before putting the screws in, check orientation by pressing on the plate with your fingers, if you can feel the friction plates are loose you're on wrong. Pull it off, rotate it and offer it up again.
Some people seem to be lucky, but often the bottom of the wells the springs live in will fracture when tightening up the bolts with the pressure plate in the wrong position.
When you say pressure plate, what are you referring to? are there some kind of aligning marks to show the correct position? one of the friction plates was a bit tight to push back into the basket, although i did get it fully back against the steel plate before it quite quickly, it was just more difficult than the others.
edit: just thinking is pressure plate the plate that you put the springs into and covers the friction plates? sorry if I am being a bit of a div but not done a clutch before.
The pressure plate is the one where the 6 bolts fit into. The rear of it is castellated and must fit with the castellations on the clutch boss which is what the steel plates slot into, as Fazerider ride says remove the pressure plate and rotate it push it back in, keep doing this until it slots in properly. It is obvious when it does fit in.
Word of advice take out the upreated clutch springs and put back the old ones and buy new OEM ones.
The EBC ones are far too strong and ruin what is a nice light clutch plus they put a lot of strain on the push rod mechanism causing premature of the linkage within the sprocket cover and the clutch cable.
Be aware that there has been a few cases of EBC plates being to thin and slipping after a few hundred miles.
Yes I will try that in the morning, i just went outside and took it off centre stand and put it on side stand so the oil should have settled to the left of the bike. Hopefully it is just the seating of the pressure plate and i can resolve this tomorrow morning. Thanks for all the advice.
There will be no problem with the oil once it is on the side stand, might be a small drip of residual oil when you remove the cover, but nothing more. :thumbup
would it help if i used 3 OEM springs that I took out and 3 of the EBC ones, might make it less stiff?
26-03-16, 12:40 AM
(This post was last modified: 26-03-16, 12:43 AM by bandit.)
I personally would not mix the springs as this would not give uneven pressure on the clutch plates. [img alt=Smile]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/img]
(25-03-16, 11:40 PM)sc0ttie link Wrote: would it help if i used 3 OEM springs that I took out and 3 of the EBC ones, might make it less stiff?
Do not mix them, the standard ones are fine. If you want to replace them use OEM, which should probably be replaced when changing the plates in any case.
This morning I tried all the above, but I could not get the clutch to work again. In desperation I put the old plates back in to try that and that also did not work. I am well and truly peed off with it now and I still cannot ride the bike as clutch does not seem to disengage cos bike just sits there in gear with engine running/being revved.
Ok, the original yam friction plates are loaded as follows check if EBC are the same:
Friction plate,then plain plate,then anti judder spring,now fit THE FRICTION PLATE WITH THE LARGER INTERNAL DIAMETER OVER THE SPRING,then plain plate,then friction plate till all 8 of each plates are fitted.
Hope this helps.
Did you remove anything else other than the pressure plate, the springs and the clutch plates?
Did you by any chance remove the pressure plate pushrod which looks a bit like a bolt with a washer and an oil seal on it?
Ball bearing missing from the end of the push rod??
There was one friction plate which is narrower that all of the others, i.e. the ring of friction material is several mm less height. That was true of the plate i took out to replace too, there was one with a smaller ring of friction material. That smaller one, if you see the video is the one that is put on after the judder spring, thats what i did. I started with friction plate, steel plate, judder spring, lower height friction plate, steel plate then carried on with friction plate etc. Nothing fell out of the clutch area, I made sure nothing else was removed or fell out.
Can you see the pressure plate lifting when you pull in the clutch with the clutch cover off.
Did you make any adjustments to the cable or adjuster on the sprocket cover?
Did you notice the difference when yhe pressure plate was on in the right position?
26-03-16, 06:41 PM
(This post was last modified: 26-03-16, 06:46 PM by Bretty.)
If the ball bearing was missing the clutch wouldn't 'disengage'.
Like said above, take out the 'pressure plate' and rotate it 60 degrees, see if it sits 'in' further. I had this problem with mine, I turned it a couple of times and it went flush.
Go steady tightening the springs, do them all in turn, opposites a little at a time and don't over tighten as the inner boss casting is super brittle and you'll shear off the bit the screws go into. Either go steady or do it right with a torque wrench. (unlike me, I'm an idiot!)
-suck-squeeze-bang-blow-
(26-03-16, 05:45 PM)unfazed link Wrote: Can you see the pressure plate lifting when you pull in the clutch with the clutch cover off.
Did you make any adjustments to the cable or adjuster on the sprocket cover?
Did you notice the difference when yhe pressure plate was on in the right position? Yes I could see the plate moving in and out with the lever. I loosened the lever adjustment right down when fitting and adjusted it both ways after fitting to see if it made any difference. It didn't.
The pressure plate fit flush, I tried it in every slot position and used the position it was most flush with and which had no uneven rocking movement.
Tbh I'm thinking just get the garage to take it and do it for me now, it's stressed me out the last 2 days.
(26-03-16, 06:41 PM)Bretty link Wrote: If the ball bearing was missing the clutch wouldn't 'disengage'.
Like said above, take out the 'pressure plate' and rotate it 60 degrees, see if it sits 'in' further. I had this problem with mine, I turned it a couple of times and it went flush.
Go steady tightening the springs, do them all in turn, opposites a little at a time and don't over tighten as the inner boss casting is super brittle and you'll shear off the bit the screws go into. Either go steady or do it right with a torque wrench. (unlike me, I'm an idiot!)
I tried it in every position and used the best fitting one.
26-03-16, 09:47 PM
(This post was last modified: 26-03-16, 10:10 PM by unfazed.)
Remove the clutch pressure plate again check the condition of the the bolt/spring holes to make sure they are not broken, if all is ok there do the following:
Remove 3 friction plates and 3 steel plates
Refit the pressure rotating it until you get the correct position. Mark this position, you will know it as the pressure plate will go in about an extra 5mm.
Remove the pressures plate and replace the steel and friction plates in the correct order.
Replace the pressure plate in the marked position and replace the springs and bolts. Tighten the bolts in a criss cross manner to 8nm
Replace the gasket and clutch cover ensuring the dowels are in place and tighten all bolts to 12Nm
Now screw the cable adjuster at the handle bar all the way. Maximum slack on the cable.
Remove the rubber bung on the Sprocket cover, undo the locknut and screw it out to the end but allowing space for the screwdriver to fit.
Hold the clutch lever in lightly and screw the adjuster in and you will feel the clutch lever moving out to its home position. when it reaches its full home position wind the adjuster screw back one one full turn. Lock it up with the locknut.
Set the final position of the clutch lever to about 5mm of play between the end of the lever and the holder,
See pic of area I am relating to (found it on the web, saved me photographing it)
http://californiascooterco.com/blog/wp-c...stment.jpg
Let me know how you get on
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