Bike shed solutions/ideas?

[esetest]

Looking at your doors , cutting them shouldn't be a problem , you could replace the bottom vertical offcuts with a hinged horizontal one , then as you open the doors they lift up  . You could use a piece of  conduit on the inside of the jamb to protect it , the bikes will just run over it , you could hold  the conduit in place with saddles .

[chris.biker]

A drop down / drawn bridge ramp the width of the door way would be good, in the up position it could be bolt at the two top corners and used to add security to the doors. Also with the floor possibly needing more strength to cope with the weight of the bike, putting extra boards down could be used to raise the floor to match the door jib, this would remove the bump as you push the bike out.

[fazersharp]

[size=1em]The problem I see with trimming the bottom of the door is that it weakens the security of the doors, because then they will just be closing against the jamb, which is merely screwed into place. And if some of the jamb does need to be removed, worse still. Also, there is a securing bolt mounted at the bottom of the door which locks by sitting behind the jamb. [/size][size=1em]Still thinking...[/size] :\

I dont think you need to worry too much about security as for a start they are thin wooden doors and that little bolt (held in place with 10mm screws ?? ) one little tug and it will just fall off.
Better -20mm ply covered with a sheet of galvanised steel with any attachments being bolted all the way through with a rounded head on the outside.
Or get yourself on ebay and buy cheaply a set of upvc patio doors, there are always some on there when people take them out for an extension.

[tommyardin]

Grab yourself a piece of 10mm alluminium checker plate from a metal supplier/fabricator about 750mm wide by 600mm long and drill about an 8mm hole in either end of the 750mm wide side about 30mm from the edge and countersink the holes, get a couple of 8mm stainless steel countersunk screws about out 50mm long, put them through the the checker plate wind a couple of nuts and washers on the back. Rest the bolts on the bottom timber plate/door threshold where you want to position the ramp and clout the two screws with a hammer just hard enough to mark the threshold, drill two 10mm holes in threshold on the marks, now the ramp will locate in the holes so not move when you push or ride the bike into the shed and when not in use the flat piece of checker plate will stand against the wall just inside the shed. Jobs a Gudun.

[taylor]

there are so many options here nick,      I,ts a case of how you want it to look the round steel tube is a good one.    you could grab a lump of turf and stamp it in front of the door.    it would work.

[fazersharp]

I have got a great idea why dont you let each focer build you a section and then you can put it all together, looking like this

[nick crisp]

Grab yourself a piece of 10mm alluminium checker plate from a metal supplier/fabricator about 750mm wide by 600mm long and drill about an 8mm hole in either end of the 750mm wide side about 30mm from the edge and countersink the holes, get a couple of 8mm stainless steel countersunk screws about out 50mm long, put them through the the checker plate wind a couple of nuts and washers on the back. Rest the bolts on the bottom timber plate/door threshold where you want to position the ramp and clout the two screws with a hammer just hard enough to mark the threshold, drill two 10mm holes in threshold on the marks, now the ramp will locate in the holes so not move when you push or ride the bike into the shed and when not in use the flat piece of checker plate will stand against the wall just inside the shed. Jobs a Gudun.

I like this one. Even I could knock that up  :rolleyes And noted red98's point about floor strength and stands, so will do something about that too. Either another floor layer, which would take it nearer to flush with the top of the jamb, or stand plates, and could then maybe lay a plank of about half the jamb depth against it to lessen the bump.

I have got a great idea why dont you let each focer build you a section and then you can put it all together, looking like this

Fazersharp, you've forgotten to take your pills again  :lol

[fazersharp]

Have a look on ebay for roller door or security roller door, I think that would solve a lot of problems. You dont need the door to be the full width of the shed just 3/4 would be wide enough. So you can buy a cheep second hand roller and fill the rest in on either side if its not exactly the right width.

[nick crisp]

Have a look on ebay for roller door or security roller door, I think that would solve a lot of problems. You dont need the door to be the full width of the shed just 3/4 would be wide enough. So you can buy a cheep second hand roller and fill the rest in on either side if its not exactly the right width.

Security is something I'll be looking into more, but for now, I want to get the paving finished and I think I'll use some sort of ramp, maybe what Tommyardin suggested, to get me up and running. Interesting suggestion though, but not sure I'm capable of rigging it up myself. I'll look into it.

[slimwilly]

You wont need any floor door jams,,just cause problems,,or have one that you lift out to get bike out,,sits in slots either end.
Masonary,slabs for ramp, not wood,more permanent. Chain bikes together,,always hard to move then.
I have just put ground anchor in my garage,,big link polished chain was just £4.50 metre, cheap as chips, will put another in.

[nick crisp]

You wont need any floor door jams,,just cause problems,,or have one that you lift out to get bike out,,sits in slots either end.
Masonary,slabs for ramp, not wood,more permanent. Chain bikes together,,always hard to move then.
I have just put ground anchor in my garage,,big link polished chain was just £4.50 metre, cheap as chips, will put another in.

You're missing it too  :rolleyes  It's not just the floor jamb. Have another look at the photo. The doors extend down beyond the floorboard level as well, so even if I completely removed the jamb, I still couldn't pave to the shed floor level, or the doors wouldn't open. There'll be plenty of chains and locks, will have a ground anchor installed, disc locks etc. Got to put a metal grill over the window, and a blind to block the view through it when not in use. I've got to complete the patio paving, am currently putting a weather-proof top coat on the shed (it has a base coat)....it's a lot of work, I'm not used to work  :lol


Oh, and wondering if it might be an idea to put a protective coat of some sort on the floor boards, in case of spillages of oils, fluids etc?


Might have everything done in ten year's time  :'(

[tommyardin]

there are so many options here nick,      I,ts a case of how you want it to look the round steel tube is a good one.    you could grab a lump of turf and stamp it in front of the door.    it would work.

Naughty ole taylor, that piece of turf will also rot the threshold of the shed out to when it get wet, cos it will stay wet for an absolute age during the bad weather, and its a bodge, I will not ask you to help set up my carbs or help with my valve clearances.  :fish [size=78%] [/size]
[/size]
[/size][size=78%]I have it on good [/size][size=78%][/size]authority[size=78%][/size][size=78%] that 8mm would be [/size]heavy[size=78%] enough to carry the weight of a [/size]heavy[size=78%] bike as its only about a 600mm long ramp.[/size][size=78%]
[/size][size=78%]that is what I would do any way. If I had a nice turf I might go the other route[/size][size=78%] :rollin [/size][size=78%] [/size][size=78%]

[tommyardin]

LOL here is me trying to sound ecucated and give advice and I cant even f-----g type

[tommyardin]

Or spell EDUCATED

[fazersharp]

There'll be plenty of chains and locks, will have a ground anchor installed, disc locks etc. Got to put a metal grill over the window, and a blind to block the view through it when not in use. I've got to complete the patio paving, am currently putting a weather-proof top coat on the shed (it has a base coat)....it's a lot of work, I'm not used to work  :lol

Oh I think its going to look beautiful

[sinto607276]

I have it on good authority that 8mm would be heavy enough to carry the weight of a heavy bike as its only about a 600mm long ramp.
that is what I would do any way. If I had a nice turf I might go the other route  :rollin

There you go, you can even read your educated stuff now

You can go back into your posts and modify them to save you the embarrassing moments :lol

[Frosties]

Nice shed, was just wondering if you were planning on running any power to it before you finish the slab work?

[nick crisp]

Yeah, need to price that up. Not something I want to tackle myself. I've got power and lighting in the other shed, so might be a bit cheaper if it can run from that.

[red98]

With regard to wooden ramps, for a long lasting one I would go for at least 12mm maring ply,18 would be my ideal choice but the strengh is in the sub structure, take a look at TEX's ramp, all the weight is on the  vertical uprights beneath the ramp it self .top it off with a bit of roofing felt so its not slippy when wet......I do believe ive just done  FOCU's first risk assessment  :lol

[tommyardin]

[quote author=tommyardin link=topic=19499.msg225659#msg225659 date=1456851394]
I have it on good authority that 8mm would be heavy enough to carry the weight of a heavy bike as its only about a 600mm long ramp.
that is what I would do any way. If I had a nice turf I might go the other route  :rollin

There you go, you can even read your educated stuff now

You can go back into your posts and modify them to save you the embarrassing moments :lol
[/quote]


Thank you Sinto, you are a gent and a scholar  un