(26-02-16, 12:44 AM)unfazed link Wrote: The visible screws in the picture are not for removing the switch, they are part of a set of 4 for keeping the sealing plate and wire guide in place.
2 pan head screws hold the switch to the frame and can only be accessed from underneath and are loctited in place.
Ensure you have a good fitting philips screwdriver but there is a good chance they will be wrecked on the way out.
Use an impact screwdriver to remove as it will fit cleanly and replace then with normal bolts or allen bolts and loctite them back in place.
If switch falls off when riding the engine will stop dead.
Don't s'pose you would have any idea of what size and length of bolts needed perchance, as i'll try and get some replacements from work later on today?
I've got another week off work from Monday so i'll need to have the bolts to hand at home.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
I've not got round to doing this yet as I've had a dodgy back, but was hoping to try and change it tomorrow for the replacement one I bought.
Only thing is, the more I look at it, it just seems to be in a complete bastard of a place to actually get near it, to whack the screws with an impact driver for instance. mash
Am I missing a simple trick or something, or is it really just in a nasty position with the exhaust in the way as well?
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
If it cuts out and leaves you stranded anywhere disconnect the switch from the loom and bridge the connector with a bit of wire and you'll be on your way
(24-03-16, 10:44 PM)unfazed link Wrote: Best of luck :'(
When i hear things like that from you, i know i'm in trouble. :look
After i got home from work yesterday i got a new can of brake cleaner out and thought i'd degrease it while it was raining in the hope the rain would dilute the mess i was gonna make.
I probably should put it on the centre stand, although i dunno how much that would've helped either, but i could barely even get close to it to spray the chain lube off.
Whoever has the job of fitting them either has first go on an upside down empty frame, or is standing in a pit. :groan
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(24-03-16, 11:26 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: If it cuts out and leaves you stranded anywhere disconnect the switch from the loom and bridge the connector with a bit of wire and you'll be on your way
Yeah, i found a YouTube video on how to basically hotwire it, by either bridging the connector like you say, or even cutting the wire and joining it, which is the same thing. I also read on an old post from years back to just remove the switch and tie it somewhere safe away from the stand, but if i could do that then i'd just put the other one back on.
I'll stare at it for a bit longer, and if i come up with something imaginative i'll let you know, otherwise it'll have to go down to the mechanic. :\
Judging by the hole size in the new switch, they are M5 screws, and i've managed to find some stainless cap head screws at work in slightly different lengths to have on hand if i do ever manage to remove it.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
The secret is to do what they do in the factory. Take the engine out then you've got good access to change the switch and once that's done put the engine back in the frame!
When mine failed I ended up cutting/smashing the old switch to remove it and using allan bolts when putting the new one in since you can't get a screwdriver on the screw heads
(25-03-16, 08:01 AM)Jules-C link Wrote: The secret is to do what they do in the factory. Take the engine out then you've got good access to change the switch and once that's done put the engine back in the frame!
When mine failed I ended up cutting/smashing the old switch to remove it and using allan bolts when putting the new one in since you can't get a screwdriver on the screw heads
Yeah, i'm starting to realize that "secret". :'(
I've cleaned up the whole area of chain lube so at least i can see it now, and now it just looks like a very unappealing job.
I'll stare at it a bit longer then decide what to do next.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Just to let you know, i cleaned up the area of the side stand switch with plenty of brake cleaner, and the scenario now is that i have to start the bike with the side stand up, but once started it does let me put the stand down and remains running okay so i can let the engine warm up without being on the bike.
It still won't start with the stand down though, the bastard.
Although not ideal, it's a situation that i can more than deal with for now.
I still have a new switch at the ready, or a pair of cutters so i can hotwire it if necessary though
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
I know it's not ideal, but to get me out of shit for now I have followed the side stand switch up to behind the left side panel and used a Scotch Lock cable joiner to basically "hotwire" the cables together and bypass the side stand switch for now.
I went to unplug the side stand switch plug and found that to be in a stupidly difficult place as well, so this fix will do for now.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
I'd use a short bit of wire and crimp two spade terminals on either end and connect it into the block connector. Probably not the correct thing to do but it'll work reliably and when you want to replace the switch properly the connector and loom are all still original
(03-05-16, 11:03 PM)His Dudeness link Wrote: I'd use a short bit of wire and crimp two spade terminals on either end and connect it into the block connector. Probably not the correct thing to do but it'll work reliably and when you want to replace the switch properly the connector and loom are all still original
That was the actual plan, but i couldn't figure out how to get anywhere near the plug, so went in to Plan B.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
mash
