Charging

[old son]

My Gen 1 started fine this morning. I stopped at a garage but the bike wouldn't turn over when I wanted to leave. It was as through the battery was flat. Not even a single revolution!

I have got the engine started and checked the battery posts with a multimeter while the engine was running. It showed 12.2V at tick over & 12.8V at 2500 rpm. Even revving the engine did not get the reading over 13V.

I presume this is not correct? Does anybody know what part might be failing?

[Falcon 269]

Not having much luck with the old girl lately, mate.

First thing to rule out is a failed battery.  What's the reading across the battery terminals with the engine not running?  Ignition on and ignition off?

[old son]

I have currently got the battery on charge and so would not get accurate readings? Would it be better if I disconnect for an hour and take readings then?

[old son]

Battery left for 1 hr 15 minutes. Battery readings 12.84V with no ignition. 12.58 with ignition on.

[old son]

I fitted the ignition lock at the weekend. The connection is under the tank inside the rubber sock thing that looks like it should be sitting on a distributor top. Is there anything inside this sock I could have disturbed causing the low charging rate?

[Falcon 269]

Those battery numbers seem OK but go ahead with the full charge and check it again later.

Meanwhile, always sensible to check anything you've worked on just before a fault occurs, so definitely take a shufti at the connections you disturbed doing the ignition lock swap. 

However, the usual culprit for charging issues is the large white connector under the tank on the left side.

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/eskortsdefect...ment.shtml

[The Male Whale]

Sounds more like the solenoid to me - common failure.


Jump the poles of the solenoid with a screwdriver and see if she starts. There WILL be sparks.....


Whale

[old son]

The bike is starting fine when the battery is not flat. The voltage across the battery is only 12.8v with the engine running. Surely this should be up around 13+V?  Is there a regulator or something that could be failing. I don't want to take the bike to the steelers unless absolutely necessary.

[sirgalahad3]

Note the link Falcon has posted above. That is the place to look.

[old son]

I have noted what Mike has suggested and have been looking for the correct connectors. Does anybody know where I can get the actual connector with the powerful spring?

[PaulSmith]

I fitted the ignition lock at the weekend. The connection is under the tank inside the rubber sock thing that looks like it should be sitting on a distributor top. Is there anything inside this sock I could have disturbed causing the low charging rate?

When I repaired my ignition block, I found that there was a lot of corrosion in the connector block you are taking about. A poor connection there could explain why it wouldn't start for you and recent work in that area would have contributed to your problems. I don't have the wiring guide handy but I don't think that the reg/rec goes through that junction so it looks like you might have more then one problem. 

12.8V an hour after coming off charge indicates your battery is healthy but 12.8V with the engine running is too low. Could this have been measured when the battery was flat and the bike was having to charge it? Repeat the test now that the battery is full, if it is still only 12.8, then you need to think about replacing your reg/rec, if it is 13 or more, then it may have been a glitch, keep an eye out but it was probably a once off.

[sirgalahad3]

I got my powerpole connectors from vehicle wiring products. That name should show up online.

[old son]

I got my powerpole connectors from vehicle wiring products. That name should show up online.

I've looked through the site and cannot find the correct connectors. Maybe I am asking the wrong question?

I have also asked the question with RS Components.

[sirgalahad3]

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/se...d60010cd76
They are under the heading connectors.

[nickodemon]

I agree with the above comments, but the most likely issues are either the ignition connectors you have been near or the white connector which is well known to corrode. To locate it take off the left hand side fairing infill and raise the tank. Follow the cables from the reg rect to the white connector. Pull it apart. Push the connector in and out several times to remove corrosion and then smother it is silicone grease and reconnect. Hopefully that will solve the issue. If it doesn't you will have to cut the wiring and fit new connectors.

[old son]

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/se...d60010cd76
They are under the heading connectors.

Brilliant thanks. I have charged the battery so it is full. With the engine running I am getting 13.2V at tick over. When I rev it goes up to around 13.8V. I am actually putting this whole episode down to a dodgy Ctec charger. A new charger shows the battery is fully charged. This is confirmed with a multimeter at 12.9V. The Ctec is showing the battery is not fully charged and is getting quite warm when connected. Fingers crossed I have not got a major issue.

I have decided I will change the connector and I will buy the fittings from Vehicle Wiring Products. Presumably I only need the 30amp units?

Thanks to everybody who has offered advice. I have bought a new battery which it appears I do not need but if I keep it charged it will do as a spare.

[b1k3rdude]

I have got the engine started and checked the battery posts with a multimeter while the engine was running. It showed 12.2V at tick over & 12.8V at 2500 rpm. Even revving the engine did not get the reading over 13V. I presume this is not correct? Does anybody know what part might be failing?

The voltages you are seeing are normal - unfortunately the charging system on the FZS1000 is quite mediocre. In addition to the link Falcon posted and this similar thread here this can be further remedied by changing the voltage regulator/rectifier for a mosfet based unit -

- http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=14273.0

I had similar issues untill I realised it was the cheap shit no-name battery I had in there, 6 months ago I changed it for motobat and have never looked back.  The FZS sits outside and dosen't get used for months on end, yet will start on the button every time.

[Tuckerhauser]

Had the same issue I ran additional + & - wires direct from battery to rectifier now have 14v at the battery at 5k