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Ekectrical conundrum
#1
This ones hurting my head.

Want 12v to switch a relay but ONLY once engine is running  :wall :wall :wall
Complete fabrication, I didn't make it up!
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#2
A simple requirement, but more awkward than it sounds.
Would manual control do the job? Either a separate switch or running it off something you turn on after the engine's running, like the headlight?
Otherwise it could be done by a delay circuit that only engages the relay once you've had time to get the engine running… or  a circuit that detects the engine revs, or the battery voltage.
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#3
I thought tach, voltage from gen but I thing some form of delay would be required or the relay would switch the circuit the min you hit the starter.

Have thought about the sidestand switch (not hit it with the grinder yet) it could provide 12v when down

Just trying to think of something other than that bloody numberplate bracket I've been messing around with since 5 am



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#4
If it's a 2003 on then take a feed off the headlight.
Or try a cdi off a 2003 and tap the headlight relay feed.
More importantly what's it for.
The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people's money!
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#5
(12-12-15, 11:09 AM)sadlonelygit link Wrote: If it's a 2003 on then take a feed off the headlight.
Or try a cdi off a 2003 and tap the headlight relay feed.
More importantly what's it for.

Its a 2000 model so thats out of the question

Trying to think of ways of trying to minimise the amount of wiring around the headstock, may be able to dump the right hand switch gear by running two circuits of one switch. side stand down = starter, up = horn
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#6
interested to see what you do here, i had lots of fun with my wiring and ended up with 3 full wiring harnesses in the garage when i was trying to street fighter the bike, i gave up in the end as there were too many wires to handle and i wanted to ride the bike again  Big Grin


have a digital speedo and lights to fit, that is if i do not sell the fzs600 next year
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#7
What you need is the charge output wire from the alternator.

Look at the wiring diagram to work out which colour it is.
Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again
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#8
(13-12-15, 06:53 PM)BBROWN1664 link Wrote: What you need is the charge output wire from the alternator.

Look at the wiring diagram to work out which colour it is.

will that not be live when the engine turns on the starter?
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#9
Might have missed it but what are you trying to power? Why does it have to be after the engine has started?
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#10
(12-12-15, 12:11 PM)joebloggs link Wrote: Trying to think of ways of trying to minimise the amount of wiring around the headstock, may be able to dump the right hand switch gear by running two circuits of one switch. side stand down = starter, up = horn

No need to mess with handlebars switch.

The headlight 20A fuse in the fusebox that sits right to the battery - the wire going there in the middle of the fusebox will give you 12V only when the ignition key is in ON position. This is how I have got the positive trigger for my PDM60 power box few days ago.

The good news is if you use Posi-tap connector no need to mess with the connection there, just hang the posi-tap somewhere on the wire:

http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

Adrian Monk: Unless I'm wrong, which, you know, I'm not.

[Image: 606131.png]
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#11
(14-12-15, 12:59 AM)His Dudeness link Wrote: Might have missed it but what are you trying to power? Why does it have to be after the engine has started?


Want the horn button to double up as starter switch. 12v to starter solenoid when engine off, 12v to horn when running.

I've already bypassed the sidestand switch so it's available but if anyone can offer a better solution I'll take it.






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#12
Those positap connectors look like an alternative to scotchlock, not sure I'd use them but can see the appeal.

Ordered a 12v 40amp changeover relay inc pigtails for £2.99, 40's a total overkill but they were all the same price so why not, just need to pay my local wiring supplier a visit and I'll have a play around and see what happens


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#13
You could be onto a new safety device here. The horn will go off when you start the bike to give warning to other road users :lol I think I've seen motorbike grips that have buttons built into them. If you're mad keen on hiding the switches you could probably keep the original loom intact and control it off the grips rather than making whole new circuits.
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#14
The relay will switch the horn off until the engines running or until I raise the sidestand which will break the starter circuit leaving the horn button to operate the horn only.
Well that's the theory
Will make all connections after the connector blocks so wont need to touch the main loom. Want it reversible. Just in case
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#15
Sounds mad. I like it. Good luck!
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#16
Think I have it right

[Image: hron_relay.png]
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#17
What will you be using the starter button for?
Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again
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#18
(15-12-15, 02:24 PM)BBROWN1664 link Wrote: What will you be using the starter button for?

Removing the right hand switch gear so horn will double up as starter
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#19
OK. I will re-phrase the question. :pokefun

Why remove the switchgear? Leave it alone, it works :pokefun
Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again
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#20
An alternative may be to fit a push button under the seat along with the ignition switch

Not quite sure you have thought this through though.

The right switch gear also holds the kill switch. With your ignition switch under the seat, it you remove the right hand switch gear, how will you turn the engine off without getting off the bike and lifting the seat?
Another ex-Fazer rider that is a foccer again
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