trying to remove rear axle

[mobile mouse]

Hi help required,
Bike chain needs replacing. So removed axle nut and then took the adjusters apart.
I have had no problems adjusting the chain.
The tyre was changed 3 years ago and I think this was the last time the axle has been removed.


I can rotate the axle with the socket when the nut is removed.
using a block and hammer the axle moved about 5mm. But how do I now get it all
the way out without trashing the thread.
Thought about putting a bolt that will fit inside the hollow axle to stop the end from getting trashed and using
chrome vanadium socked extension and just hitting hard.


But is this the right way or do I take it the shop and get them to do it.


Will the bearings be trashed, they are the original 36k miles and 12 years old ridded through all 11 winters.....
The wheel runs fine, no grinding so I just think one has stuck to the axle.
I don't want to trash the axle getting it out...


Cheers, 

[rhinoeli]

Should come out without much hammering. Ask someone to pull the axle while you are lifting the wheel up a bit and moving it back and forth. Although it should be a one-man job.

[sinto607276]

do I take it the shop and get them to do it.

:thumbdown unless you have more money than sense

As already said by rhinoeli,
as it was last put on by a garage/workshop, did they torque it or put it on with an air gun?
try a spanner on both sides as it should release with a bit of pressure on both sides

[Fazerider]

+1 for taking the weight off the axle, wedge a couple of bits of wood under the wheel to do that if you're working alone.
Penetrating oil may help. Your idea of a sacrificial bolt in the hollow end of the axle to protect it while you drift it out is a good one.
The bearings shouldn't suffer any ill-effects as the race inners are all braced against each other with spacers.

[sinto607276]

Just realised I should of read the whole post

Forget drinking on a night and replying to a post you can't read properly :thumbdown

Sorry if I misled you

But you could try a block of wood on the nearside and hammer it, saves metal on metal

Dam this drink , took me ages to type this

[His Dudeness]

Just support the wheel and knock the axle out with anything that'll fit in there like the back of a screw driver or a bit of wood. It won't do any harm to the bearings. To check the bearings put your finger on the inside of them and rotate and feel for any notches or binding. They should be smooth

[Jules-C]

And when you putting it all back together a nice coating of grease to stop it seizing in the spacer next time

[Derpdiherp]

My axle was stuck fast when I came to change my chain a week ago.

I ended up getting this rubber mallet:
http://www.wilko.com/hand-tools/wilko-ru...vt/0209043

It won't damage the axle to give it a good welly with that, once it comes out the other end enough to grab  - I held the wheel up with my legs and gave it a good tugging.

Faired pretty well, took a lot of effort but once it was out I gave the axle a good greasing, so it should be better for next time.

Lesson learned - when you next get someone to change your tyre, double and triple check that they are going to lube your axle..

[Dead Eye]

I usually sit down facing the rear of the bike with the rear wheel more or less between my legs. I then use my foot to support the rear wheel as you can easily adjust the pressure, as I use a rubber mallet to hit the axle and pull using my other hand The reason I use my foot to support the wheel is because it's too easy to stuff some wood under the wheel and cause pressure from the suspension on the wheel instead of its own weight.

[anutz]

just took mine out on Sunday, used a piece of wood flat against the axel and knocked that to start it off out then the main issue i had was not keeping the wheel pulled "up" when removing the axel....as long as i kept enough force up and used the outer washer to grip it came out fine....

[esetest]

Take the weight off the wheel , use a rubber tiler hammer , start with nut on loose , when you put it back use grease  .

[mobile mouse]

All dismantled now.


Its great what a 3lb lump hammer and a sleal rod can do.
It took quite a few swings to get it moving but once it started it then moved out a little easier.
But even after 150mm of bashing it still would not pull out only the last 50mm was I able to spin and pull it out by hand.


I have been cleaning everything the axle was covered in rust.
The bearings for a 12year old bike which are the original ones.
Are fine and are still good. Even after 11 winters as well, they have done 37,000 miles.


The amount of caked on oil from lubing the chain has taken me hrs to clean off.


I have removed the dust seals and I am going to remove the seals from the bearings to check the grease.
If it needs topping up or replacing I am using high temperature ZX1 Super Grease.


The sprocket cover is also caked in oil/grit as is the back where the chain turns around on the front sprocket.
Once clean then it will all be put back together.

[His Dudeness]

I'd leave the seals alone. the reason the bearings are still good is that the seals are still working at keeping the dirt out. if you take them out there's a good chance you'll damage them and they'll start letting the dirt in

[7omly]

It's a bit late now you've done it but here's a tip for the future.
Years ago I had a Jawa 350 and both spindles had a small indent in the thread end so you could belt them with a hammer and a pin punch. Greasing up is the solution but use marine grease as it is more resistant to water. Alternatively take a 3mm drill and drill around 3mm into spindle. Next time it's stuck you can insert an old pin punch into it and batter feck out of it without worrying about thread damage.
All the best

[mobile mouse]

No Damage was done at all to the thread end because I wrapped masking tape around a bolt to centre it and it fitted snugly into the hollow axle to stop the end from getting trashed.
Worked a treat.

[mobile mouse]

While I can get at the bearings I at least want to check on them becasue if they are dry but still running ok as they are, I have the oportunity to regrease them.
But It goes to show OEM are the best. Do you think you would get 37,000 after 12 winters riding and the bearing be in good order.
But I know what you are saying but I think they can be looked at once.
I am going to be really careful when removing the seal but if I can extend the life great otherwise I thought after 37,000 miles they would have been trashed.

[Fazerider]

I'd leave the seals alone. the reason the bearings are still good is that the seals are still working at keeping the dirt out. if you take them out there's a good chance you'll damage them and they'll start letting the dirt in

:agree

I definitely would not open them up. Either leave them alone or replace them as a (totally unnecessary) precaution.
FWIW, mine are fine after 17 years and 170-odd thousand miles of all-weather riding.