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Brake Caliper Pistons
#41
Not got a clue but you'll need to read the descriptions as first only says for left hand side?? Does that mean the right hand side caliper is different??
And i thought you were doing the rear, is that different, call or email them to confirm your getting the correct ones I say :-)
Colin
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Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#42
I used for my rebuilt this kit:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BREMSSATTEL-RE...3a8a74f879

Best regrads
Guenter

Guenter
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#43
Doing them all Sinto....so just seeing the cost involved of seals
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#44
(02-05-15, 02:11 PM)anutz link Wrote: Doing them all Sinto....so just seeing the cost involved of seals
Ahh, I should of known you'd not just do the rear lol
Its some price difference between your two and even the one Guenter posted.
Colin
----------------------
Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#45
Quote:Its some price difference between your two and even the one Guenter posted.
The Tourmax kit is indeed more expensive but the quality is o.k. and it comes with a lubricant for assembly that nearly looks like the red rubber grease (the colour is a little bit lighter).

Best regards
Guenter
Guenter
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#46
[quote='riedrider link' pid='668911' dateline='1430576380']
Quote: nearly looks like the red rubber grease (the colour is a little bit lighter).

pink rubber
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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#47
(02-05-15, 01:28 PM)sinto link Wrote: And i thought you were doing the rear, is that different, call or email them to confirm your getting the correct ones I say :-)
Daft me, I just looked at your first pic and realised it's a front caliper duh@me
Colin
----------------------
Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#48
indeed it is!

[Image: IMG_0119_zpsnbilkqap.jpg]
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#49
Love the idea of the bucket there, is that to catch the tears of your bike as it's not getting out to play? it's face looks so sad :rollin
Oh and on your first pic, your hand looks too soft and clean to of done all that work on your bike already, not even got cuts or whatever lol
Colin
----------------------
Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#50
hmmm....

Did i order the wrong seals here - i keep reading on some listings that they have "double lip dust seals..."

The picture of the ones i have do not seem to show that?!

:rolleyes

On the plus side got my forks off and changed the dust seals, oil seals look ok and also have rear calliper off, its was in bad shape like the fronts...
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#51
rear caliper and one of its pads, which looks like treasure.....

[Image: IMG_0131_zpsyvzjjk3n.jpg]

[Image: IMG_0133_zpsb8cikcns.jpg]

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#52
What's wrong with them? Looks perfectly normal to me :rollin :rollin

But really, guess that's more cleaning and work for you mate, I'm sure you'll get it done to your usual high standards ;-)
Colin
----------------------
Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#53
You should scrap the caliper. There seems to be a groove in the left pad guide.
I scraped a front caliper for a much smaler one....
Guenter
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#54
(04-05-15, 08:40 PM)riedrider link Wrote: You should scrap the caliper. There seems to be a groove in the left pad guide.
I scraped a front caliper for a much smaler one....
Can that cause a major problem?  Just checking in case I see it on mine when I strip them down, I'm just letting anutz do all his stuff then I'll do all mine come the winter.
Colin
----------------------
Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#55
It can prevent the pad from moving against the disk.
The pad sould slide freely on the guide like it is possible on the right side where everything is flat.
The goove can make it stick.
Guenter
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#56
i will go take a closer look at the guides and see what it is like.....

What can you replace it with - i have never really had to buy new brake calipers...

Is their a good recommended one?

I see some owners replace them with a 1000 FZS Rear Caliper.....

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#57
(04-05-15, 08:51 PM)riedrider link Wrote: It can prevent the pad from moving against the disk.
The pad sould slide freely on the guide like it is possible on the right side where everything is flat.
The goove can make it stick.
I replied to this but it didn't post, probably same reason for not realising it would cause a problem.... Too many beers hic :rollin
Colin
----------------------
Ride fast, ride a red bike :-)
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#58
I have recovered worse calipers than that. Obviously a replacement Fzs1000 or post 2009 Xjr1300 caliper is the easiest option

I use wonder Wheel alloy wheel cleaner to clean up the caliper first.


[img alt=WONDER-WHEELS-SUPER-ALLOY-WHEEL-CLEANER-KIT-SET-1LITRE-CAR-AUTO-EXPRESS-BEST-BUY height=268 height=213 width=213]http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/z/9XUAAOSw7NNUCz7-/$_12.JPG[/img]
Use with care as it is acid based, follow the instructions exactly, then wash it down well. Check if you can open the bleed nipples and then remove the pistons if possible. You need to check the seal slots. If the seal slots cannot be cleaned up than replacement is the only solution.
If the nipples are removable and seal slots can be cleaned up; replace pistons and seals and nipples if necessary.
Dismantle the two sides only as a last resort as the small seals can be very difficult to get.
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#59
Thanks Unfazed, plan is to pop all pistons out and clean and wet and dry them - see what state they are in...

Also i am cautious about the seals, need to see if the replacment ones i have ordered will be ok, not sure if they have the correct form on the dust seals...

sure i will have more to follow as i do this anyway...
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#60
Often times they look much worse than they actually are. Smile

The spring at the bottom of the caliper comes out with a bit of fiddling, it is to keep pressure on the pads and stops them rattling. Replace the slid pins also.

The alloy wheel cleaner will get most crap off the piston also without damage, I normally use a sharpen piece of very hard plastic as a scraper for the tough bit and since it will be softer than steel it won't damage the pistons. Not to keen on using wet and dry.
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