integrated dishwasher

[midden]

Calling all domesticated foccers with an integrated dishwasher

I'm considering installing an integrated dishwasher into a existing 600mm base unit.
My problem is will I have to remove the cupboard base?  Also forgetting the front panel, how far does the top sit below the work surface?
If possible pics would be a great help.
cheers

[Arfa]

Yes the cupboard base will need to go. The integrated dishwasher will sit on it's own legs directly on the floor. The last Bosch one I fitted had three, with worm drives at the front to raise/lower it. Ditto the Baumatic one it replaced. Just keep the full width kick board to go in front of these legs.

You will slot it in, then raise the washer up flush with worktop. The ones I've had then had a couple of screws at front that went into underside of worktop. If you have an MDF worktop, stick something protective on the underside to help reduce damage from steam, moisture and heat from the washer. Every time you open the washer when it's full of hot stuff or mid cycle you get a massive waft of steam and vapour coming out. On my worktop there's a little groove on the underside, where over the years moisture has caused the wood to bulge slightly. A quick preventative coat of PVA would probably help no end to avoid this.

You will need a new piece of wood to screw to front door of dishwasher that ideally matches the rest of the kitchen. You're existing cupboard door probably won't be quite right size and will have handle in wrong place. Some washers have a control panel facing outwards, some have buttons on the top edge of door and only visible when you pull it down. The wood face you use will differ in size based on this. If you're using MDF, the piece will need nice veneer edges stuck on appropriately, rather than having to cut it down. Be warned though, after several year the top edge will start to come off from moisture.

That said, we went cheap skate on latest washer, and just fitted a standalone one in same gap (just had to cut kick board down). The front piece of wood was knackered (from moisture) and it was £150 odd cheaper than the equivalent integrated washer.

[locksmith]

......  Wot e says  ......

[slappy]

Mine came with a piece of protective film to stick on the underside of the worktop to help protect from steam/water damage.

[midden]

Cheers for that Arab,  very informative. When you talk about the steam and condensation, is it isolated toward the front of the worktop? 
My problem is that I have a standalone already but due to the space available it's a slimline and I find myself hand washing items which won't fit so full size is the way to go.  The unit I'm considering fitting it in has the induction hob above so will need a reasonable air gap between the two appliances. If codes at ion is just at the front, it shouldn't be a problem.  I'll also vent the cupboard side panel. 
When you fitted a standalone in the space, did you have to widen the cupboard?

[Arfa]

Yeah, steam tends to just hit the front of the worktop where the door opens.

Check the induction hob doesn't hang down at all. I guess you could screw a batten or three under the counter, then raise the washer flush with them, then screw it to them. Thus setting the washer an inch or two below counter. May need to cut a little off kick board to allow door to open. Thinking back I think our kick board did have an inch or two cut out of it for this.

The standalone dishwasher was same width as integrated. Besides chopping kick board, it was a like for like swap really.

However; how are you going to convert the current slim line width space into another cupboard?

[nick crisp]

Ye Gods!  :rolleyes

:lol

[midden]

However; how are you going to convert the current slim line width space into another cupboard?

I'll be putting the freezer back in.

[midden]

Nick  WASSUP? 

[nick crisp]

Nick  WASSUP? 

Oh, nothing. Do carry on old chap.

[midden]

Lol

[maddog04]

can't help with the initial question but we've got integrated everything and when they go wrong its a ball ache
mrs said she'd never have integrated again.........

I've an issue with the dishwasher at the mo where its not cleaning right, can anyone help?
the plates and glasses etc are being left with a gritty finish, sometimes certain dishes aren't getting washed at all (especially on the top shelf)
I've tried cleaning the jet holes in the top arm........I've also used a proprietary cleaner but no help and its starting to piss me off now as I'm back to washing by hand

[Arfa]

TBh, I've had no (more) hassle with the integrated stuff. Swapping one integrated dishwasher for t'other was just the same but with addition of swapping wooden panel on front too.
Swapping electric cooker was same, quick swap over.

Not sure about stuff not getting clean. Cleaning jets on arm is first stop (watch out for bits of egg shell or seeds in them!), clean all the filters and other crud that can accumulate on the door edge/seals. Filled it with rinse aid? Anything falling down and stopping the top arm spinning? Other than that, I'm out of suggestions.

[fazersharp]

I always sort of pre clean stuff before it gos in the dishwasher, just a kitchen towel wipe or if the roaster has some stuck on stuff i will soak and rinse it a bit first so as not to clog it up with stuff

[maddog04]

nothing stopping the arms spinning, don't use rinse aid after an engineer told me its not needed and can actually be detrimental to the machine......said their Co. always tell the punter not to use it
filters seem ok so I'm at a bit of a loss.........what's the best way to clean the jets in the arms?

[fazersharp]

My utencil basket is about knacked  from knives cutting the bottom so thin utencils somtimes drop down ad stop the bottom arm from spinning.
The correct way to load the basket is handel down but ever since I stabbed myself grabbing a plate (drunk probably) I all ways put the sharp ones blade down, hence my kancked basket

[maddog04]

handles down so don't think that's the issue

[Arfa]

nothing stopping the arms spinning, don't use rinse aid after an engineer told me its not needed and can actually be detrimental to the machine......said their Co. always tell the punter not to use it
filters seem ok so I'm at a bit of a loss.........what's the best way to clean the jets in the arms?

Interesting. Not heard this one. I know some tablet are combined detergent, salt and rinse aid - with many washer than having some button combo your use to disable the warning about low salt/rinse aid. Don't use these myself. But we often notice the machine is low on rinse aid before the low light comes on as you get a load of stuff with crap stuck to it. And it's usually fine again after filling up. No idea, research it some more, or maybe give some a go.

[Grayo]

If you're using three in one tablets then don't fill the machine with salt or rinse aid as this will cause the grittiness on your plates. The only way to clean spray arms is to take them off and force water through the wrong way but this can be time consuming. Finally, get some descaler, put it in the bottom of the machine and run the machine on a very hot cycle but with nothing in it and all these things should solve your cleaning problems.
You should also run your washing machine on a very hot wash with just descaler and no washing in it about every two to three months. This will get rid of the build up of old detergent which accumulates from using the same was cycle all the time. If it's not done the machine will begin to smell after a while.
I used to be a service Engineer for Hotpoint.

[fazersharp]

I used to be a service Engineer for Hotpoint.

I know that we are going off on a tangent a little here, but on doing some reshearch on black mold and the like in washing machines i found the biggest culprit was the use of softener which has animal fats in it.
What do you think Grayo