Sprocket Washer Bent?

[anutz]

Hi,


So i was cleaning my chain and thought i would take off the sprocket cover and clean out all the muck i could see....





That bit i can handle, now on closer inspection their appears to be some damage to the washer....little blurry so will get some better ones... Added new pic...





Anyone seen this or have any advice - i keep reading there was a issue with 8mm vs 12mm nuts as well so this might be the time to go measure it and check!


Anutz

[Paulfzs]

its a locking tab its supposed to be bent to stop the nut coming undone


might wana change that nut for the upgraded one too.

[rhinoeli]

Have more than 80000 kms with the 8 mm one. Not saying you shouldn't, but can live without the change...

[anutz]

Thanks for the reply both - now, the upgraded nut, i shall have a look for one and see what i can find!


Anutz

[anutz]

found a kit with these 2 components

]90179-18006 UPGRADED NUT

90215-21290 WASHER

Ordered and shall see what i can do when it gets here

6£ in total so not bad...

Is there any special process to get this nut off, taking into account the locking mechanism....

[Dave48]

found a kit with these 2 components

]90179-18006 UPGRADED NUT

90215-21290 WASHER

Ordered and shall see what i can do when it gets here

6£ in total so not bad...

Is there any special process to get this nut off, taking into account the locking mechanism....

Just knock the sides of the washer up with a drift/hammer so washer is "flat" all round. Apply rear brake or get someone to do this for you. Engage gear.
Fit large socket/ring spanner to nut with extension bar if you need it. Nut should undo. When fitting replacement 12mm nut tighten to recommended torque setting abnd bend tabs of new washer over faces of nut. Job done :lol

[rhinoeli]

Just repeating what Dave48 said, because it is very important. Do not have the transmission in gear when loosening/tightening the nut. That could damage your transm. Instead (as Dave48 said) fix the front sprocket with the rear brakes and the chain. This is also the method when changing drive sprockets/chain, it is best to loosen the nut before cutting the chain, removing rear wheel, swingbar.

[unfazed]

Read this  http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=down...ew;down=43  and tighten the 12mm Nut to 80Nm
It has been downloaded over 700 times but I do not know if anyone else has tried it.

[fazersharp]

Also read here, a little side topic but also some useful stuff on torque wrenches too http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,9920.0.html

[anutz]

Thanks for the input all, shall update as i go...

[Punkstig]

Don't bother changing the nut until you change the chain and sprockets!

[darrsi]

Have more than 80000 kms with three 8 mm one. Not saying you shouldn't, but can live without the change...

Well as long as yours is okay, we'll just ignore the horror stories and countless discussions we've had on here about upgrading the nut shall we?
For all you know yours could be fused on like mine was?
Other people have checked and either found threads stripped or no nut at all.

It's worth changing........but I agree I'd do chain and sprockets at the same time.

[ChristoT]

[quote author=rhinoeli link=topic=16313.msg187637#msg187637 date=1426742246]
Have more than 80000 kms with three 8 mm one. Not saying you shouldn't, but can live without the change...

Well as long as yours is okay, we'll just ignore the horror stories and countless discussions we've had on here about upgrading the nut shall we?
For all you know yours could be fused on like mine was?
Other people have checked and either found threads stripped or no nut at all.

It's worth changing........but I agree I'd do chain and sprockets at the same time.
[/quote]

The main problem with the nut is overtorquing. The 8mm nut is fine IF it isn't overtorqued. Because most bike shops use airguns, the nuts end up with too much strain on the thread, which then strips the shaft. The 10mm nut spreads the load better, and has less chance of damaging the shaft if bolloxed up.

[Paulfzs]

[quote author=darrsi link=topic=16313.msg187673#msg187673 date=1426769786]
[quote author=rhinoeli link=topic=16313.msg187637#msg187637 date=1426742246]
Have more than 80000 kms with three 8 mm one. Not saying you shouldn't, but can live without the change...

Well as long as yours is okay, we'll just ignore the horror stories and countless discussions we've had on here about upgrading the nut shall we?
For all you know yours could be fused on like mine was?
Other people have checked and either found threads stripped or no nut at all.

It's worth changing........but I agree I'd do chain and sprockets at the same time.
[/quote]

The main problem with the nut is overtorquing. The 8mm nut is fine IF it isn't overtorqued. Because most bike shops use airguns, the nuts end up with too much strain on the thread, which then strips the shaft. The 10mm nut spreads the load better, and has less chance of damaging the shaft if bolloxed up.
[/quote]


i had mine done up at 50nm and it stripped?


on my old divvy i had 4 strip before i found the upgraded one and they where all done up at varying torque settings.


cheese metal and lack of thread.

[darrsi]

[quote author=darrsi link=topic=16313.msg187673#msg187673 date=1426769786]
[quote author=rhinoeli link=topic=16313.msg187637#msg187637 date=1426742246]
Have more than 80000 kms with three 8 mm one. Not saying you shouldn't, but can live without the change...

Well as long as yours is okay, we'll just ignore the horror stories and countless discussions we've had on here about upgrading the nut shall we?
For all you know yours could be fused on like mine was?
Other people have checked and either found threads stripped or no nut at all.

It's worth changing........but I agree I'd do chain and sprockets at the same time.
[/quote]

The main problem with the nut is overtorquing. The 8mm nut is fine IF it isn't overtorqued. Because most bike shops use airguns, the nuts end up with too much strain on the thread, which then strips the shaft. The 10mm nut spreads the load better, and has less chance of damaging the shaft if bolloxed up.
[/quote]


9mm & 12mm matey 

[Paulfzs]

[quote author=ChristoT link=topic=16313.msg187675#msg187675 date=1426771208]
[quote author=darrsi link=topic=16313.msg187673#msg187673 date=1426769786]
[quote author=rhinoeli link=topic=16313.msg187637#msg187637 date=1426742246]
Have more than 80000 kms with three 8 mm one. Not saying you shouldn't, but can live without the change...

Well as long as yours is okay, we'll just ignore the horror stories and countless discussions we've had on here about upgrading the nut shall we?
For all you know yours could be fused on like mine was?
Other people have checked and either found threads stripped or no nut at all.

It's worth changing........but I agree I'd do chain and sprockets at the same time.
[/quote]

The main problem with the nut is overtorquing. The 8mm nut is fine IF it isn't overtorqued. Because most bike shops use airguns, the nuts end up with too much strain on the thread, which then strips the shaft. The 10mm nut spreads the load better, and has less chance of damaging the shaft if bolloxed up.
[/quote]


9mm & 12mm matey 
[/quote]


8mm & 12mm matey

[Buzz]

[quote author=ChristoT link=topic=16313.msg187675#msg187675 date=1426771208]
[quote author=darrsi link=topic=16313.msg187673#msg187673 date=1426769786]
[quote author=rhinoeli link=topic=16313.msg187637#msg187637 date=1426742246]
Have more than 80000 kms with three 8 mm one. Not saying you shouldn't, but can live without the change...

Well as long as yours is okay, we'll just ignore the horror stories and countless discussions we've had on here about upgrading the nut shall we?
For all you know yours could be fused on like mine was?
Other people have checked and either found threads stripped or no nut at all.

It's worth changing........but I agree I'd do chain and sprockets at the same time.
[/quote]

The main problem with the nut is overtorquing. The 8mm nut is fine IF it isn't overtorqued. Because most bike shops use airguns, the nuts end up with too much strain on the thread, which then strips the shaft. The 10mm nut spreads the load better, and has less chance of damaging the shaft if bolloxed up.
[/quote]
9mm & 12mm matey 
[/quote]


:agree 

[alan sherman]

Worn front sprocket - needs new chain and sprockets.  Which reminds me - I need to check mine!

[darrsi]

[quote author=darrsi link=topic=16313.msg187678#msg187678 date=1426771750]
[quote author=ChristoT link=topic=16313.msg187675#msg187675 date=1426771208]
[quote author=darrsi link=topic=16313.msg187673#msg187673 date=1426769786]
[quote author=rhinoeli link=topic=16313.msg187637#msg187637 date=1426742246]
Have more than 80000 kms with three 8 mm one. Not saying you shouldn't, but can live without the change...

Well as long as yours is okay, we'll just ignore the horror stories and countless discussions we've had on here about upgrading the nut shall we?
For all you know yours could be fused on like mine was?
Other people have checked and either found threads stripped or no nut at all.

It's worth changing........but I agree I'd do chain and sprockets at the same time.
[/quote]

The main problem with the nut is overtorquing. The 8mm nut is fine IF it isn't overtorqued. Because most bike shops use airguns, the nuts end up with too much strain on the thread, which then strips the shaft. The 10mm nut spreads the load better, and has less chance of damaging the shaft if bolloxed up.
[/quote]


9mm & 12mm matey 
[/quote]


8mm & 12mm matey
[/quote]

Dunno where you got 8mm from, there's been enough discussions about it?  :lol

[YamFazFan]

According to information contained in the 'Lost your front sprocket and washer?' thread, a number of output shafts could be found to be slightly undersized when the outside diameter of the threaded part was measured, resulting in the threads on the nut not engaging as well as could be expected with the shaft threads. Would this explain why some bikes have done many miles on the original nut with no issues?? (ie: the output shaft diameter on these bikes is up to spec?).