intermittant misfire

[wildchild74]

I will try that unfazed wondered what those slots were for cheers bud
Gaz

[wildchild74]

I will try that unfazed wondered what those slots were for cheers bud
Gaz

Hi there i done that on the old ngk ones and they were clean but i then tried it on the one on the bike and the risister isnt too bad but one end of the spring was really corroded so i quickly cleaned them up with sandpaper but not had time to start it but will tomorrow.... are the risisters in the ngk one better than oem ones....many thanks
Gaz

[unfazed]

The resistors in the NGK one are wire wound whereas the Yamaha OEM ones are Carbon.

The carbon ones are cheaper to manufacture, but their resistance values can vary by 20%.
The wire wound ones are more accurate, normally within 5%.

The carbon type age badly and the resistance rises as they get older and coupled with corrosion it plays havoc with the spark, causing misfires, poor starting and all sorts of other issues

Be sure to clean the brass piece deep in the cap also. I usually spray the inside of the cap with WD40 before reassembly

If you put back the original caps with the NGK resistors pack the top of the cap with vaseline before replacing the rubber boot, no more water ingress.

[wildchild74]

Will deffo try that tomorrow after getting the car remapped in the morning n let you know how it goes cheers buddy
Gaz

[sgpwwg]

Hi There I have all the issues you've had I changed coils, caps, plugs and air filter. I cleaned the carbs, tried redex, the lot. My 98 fazer (88,000 miles) would be ok for s few days then misfire and you get one or two cold downpipes. After cleaning the carbs myself I noticed that diaphragm rubbers on the top of the carbs where slack, I replaced them from a set I had as a spare and the bike was back to normal. No misfire, perfect again. Hope this maybe of use.

[wildchild74]

The resistors in the NGK one are wire wound whereas the Yamaha OEM ones are Carbon.

The carbon ones are cheaper to manufacture, but their resistance values can vary by 20%.
The wire wound ones are more accurate, normally within 5%.

The carbon type age badly and the resistance rises as they get older and coupled with corrosion it plays havoc with the spark, causing misfires, poor starting and all sorts of other issues

Be sure to clean the brass piece deep in the cap also. I usually spray the inside of the cap with WD40 before reassembly

If you put back the original caps with the NGK resistors pack the top of the cap with vaseline before replacing the rubber boot, no more water ingress.

Hi folks next update done all the above inc changing oem resistors for cleaned up ngk ones started it up with a loud pop now i remember i think petrol or somthing was dripping from the joint where the can joins the pipe thats y i turned it off the other day.... anyway as said started sweet as a nut and ran lovely not a chug anywhere went up and down the road sound no chugging so left it to idle n then it started chugg chugg but if i rev it hard theres no chugg....so guys whats the next step b4 stripping the carbs down....really do appreciate your help on this thanks
Gaz

[unfazed]

Did you use the choke when starting it?

[wildchild74]

Did you use the choke when starting it?

Yes m8 do you think that could have something to do with it n i may try draining the float bowls next
Gaz

[unfazed]

Sounds like blocked pilot jets.

[wildchild74]

Sounds like blocked pilot jets.

Is that strip carbs n clean then
Gaz

[unfazed]

I would think so, I normally use cellulose thinners to clean the jets as it will shift the crap in the jets. If you want to poke something through the jets to clear them or dislodge the crap, use brass wire as it will not damage the jets, since they are also brass, some will cringe as the thought of poking something through the jets, but brass on brass is fine.
If the bike is left on the side stand for a long period then the first carb to be effected by fuel evaporation will be 4 and then 3.

[wildchild74]

I would think so, I normally use cellulose thinners to clean the jets as it will shift the crap in the jets. If you want to poke something through the jets to clear them or dislodge the crap, use brass wire as it will not damage the jets, since they are also brass, some will cringe as the thought of poking something through the jets, but brass on brass is fine.
If the bike is left on the side stand for a long period then the first carb to be effected by fuel evaporation will be 4 and then 3.

Yeah that makes sense as it is on side stand all the time and 4 is coolest and 3 a bit warmer 2 n 1 red hot cheers
Gaz

[wildchild74]

I would think so, I normally use cellulose thinners to clean the jets as it will shift the crap in the jets. If you want to poke something through the jets to clear them or dislodge the crap, use brass wire as it will not damage the jets, since they are also brass, some will cringe as the thought of poking something through the jets, but brass on brass is fine.
If the bike is left on the side stand for a long period then the first carb to be effected by fuel evaporation will be 4 and then 3.

Hi m8 ive got 5ltr drum of mek cleaner that i use at work now could i use this on the jets and float bowls as long i remove any o rings n stuff like that....what im getting at is would the mek affect the brass many thanks
Gaz

[unfazed]

I have never used it, but it should be fine with brass and as you say keep it away from the rubber seals.

[wildchild74]

Right the plan for tonite was drain tank, drain fuel filter till I get new one, and drain down carb bowls but do you think I could budge those drain screws not a chance started to knacker one so I stopped so couldn't carry on with my plan of filling with fresh petrol and half a bottle of STP complete fuel system treatment b4 I start stripping the carbs down....soo is there a special screwdriver for these screws,can I get replacements n I'm sure I've read they shouldn't be too tight as the bowl will crack so do you think these have never been undone and drained thanks
Gaz

[darrsi]

The drain screws are made of soft cheese unfortunately.
Look on AJ Sutton website.

[wildchild74]

The drain screws are made of soft cheese unfortunately.
Look on AJ Sutton website.

Cheers m8y will do now
Gaz

[unfazed]

A good fitting flat screwdriver should do the trick :thumbup has a bit more bite. They will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you

Anti clockwise of course :lol

[wildchild74]

A good fitting flat screwdriver should do the trick :thumbup has a bit more bite. They will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you

Anti clockwise of course :lol

Lol cheers for that m8 I just need to find some clear pipe to fit on the nipples to go into petrol can as the bikes in the yard now n if I get petrol all over the floor the missus will kill me as that's where the dog plays/craps lol
Gaz

[wildchild74]

Hi guys would anybody have any links to videos to remove carbs at all cheers
Gaz