Advice please on refitting OEM fuel gauge

[SkidT]

Greetings one and all.

I'm finally going to get around to trying to sort out my Gen 1. I had some issues with it misfiring and cutting out months back and basically stuck it in the garage and haven't been near to since.

Anyway, at the same time, I started getting issues with the Multigauge which eventually stopped working. Consequently I'm going to remove it and reinstall the original fuel gauge which, fortunately, I still have.


Ive read the Multigauge fitting guide on Pats website and it appears that the original fuel gauge should just bolt back in?

Could anyone please confirm this?

Are there no wires to connect to it?

Can I just detach the soldered wires for the multi gauge from the back of the cluster  / bolt back on the fuel gauge and jobs a good un?

Thanks in advance guys.

[Andy FZS]

I think there a couple of screws for connections and the mounting for the low fuel lamp gets chopped down for the multi gauge if I remember correctly.

[SkidT]

Thanks Andy.


Just need to confirm that theres no wiring that needs to be reattached to the fuel gauge from the multi gauge.


Cheers

[Falcon 269]

Laid up for a misfire and now the multigauge is playing up.

I think the two are connected and that you should be doing a thorough job of checking all your electrical connectors and switchgear before removing the multigauge. 

[SkidT]

Hi Mike,


Thanks for your post.


The two actually happened at the same time. The gauge had started to flicker occasionally prior to the breakdown and then, when it did breakdown, the gauge wouldn't work at all.


The bike fires up straight away and runs but the gauge still doesn't work. Frankly I haven't got a clue about electrics so I threw (not literally) the bike in the garage and haven't really been near it since.


Now I've got some time and Ive finally got one of my other bikes sorted (hopefully?), The Fazer is next.


My rough plan is to ride it around in ever decreasing circles of my mechanics workshop until it breaks down again and then won't re start, rather than having to pay for a fact finding mission and the hours of labour that that might entail.


I came to the conclusion that as the gauge isn't working anyway I might as well take that off and see if that may have been the cause of the problem? Christian kindly got in contact and after sending him some photos, stated that my version was quite old anyway and the wiring was not in a great state.


Ive done a wiggle test of the wiring to the clocks / gauge and all appears secure? Thats about as far as I'm prepared to go with my knowledge / talent for electrics.  :o


Nothing much likely to happen now though until the new year, now the kids are off school and we're away anyway.


Best wishes to you Mike and all of the other forum users for the festive season.  :thumbup

[schlumpf]

Usually you only have to remove the wiring and bolt the original fuel gauge back on. Also undo the modifications around the fuel warning light (insert bulb, glue plastic stud again).

Only question is about the speedo healer. Is there a orange wire and resistor? Check this picture for reference. 
http://cvieth.bplaced.net/bilder/ganganz..._final.JPG
If so you have to close the cut done on the cluster board. Otherwise your speedo won't work. In the above example the cut is located left of R51.

I doubt that the gauge is the root cause for your problems, it only suffers from the same hidden failure in your electric. But never say never. It's good practice to remove suspicious parts to rule them out.


Based on my experience trouble with the ignition is mostly caused by only a few weak points in the loom:
- The iginition barrel contacts tend get poor over time and fail randomly. They are a bit (too) heavy loaded by design. Quick help is to flood it with WD40. Long term clean and/or replace the switch.
Also dismantle and check the connector underneath the tank and the wires towards. Sometimes all looks fine but cables might be fried, hidden inside the protection hose.
- Electrical connectors: The 2 connectors (3 white wires) running from the alternator to the R/R.

For testing there is a way to bypass the loom and supply the ECU/ignition directly. Simply pull "some" fuses and make a short between one of the fuse contact and the battery. I could draw you a small sketch if needed.

[SkidT]

Thanks very much Schlumpf for your input.
I can confirm that there is no orange wire / resistor / speedo healer on mine.

Both yourself and Mike have convinced me that it's unlikely to be the Gauge causing the issues. I guess I kind of knew anyway, that it would be too good to be true, but was praying for a quick and easy fix.

I'll have a dig around checking the connections etc as you suggest before I remove anything and see how I get on.

Thanks again. I'll repost on here when Ive had a chance to do so / let yo know how I got on.