I don't think I will be doing this myself - I have read many posts on this forum relating to this issue. Seems a weak area. I'll just take it to my mechanic when the pipes rot - he can source some from M&P and fit them for £200 ! not worth the agro attempting myself.
Three lefts make a right
(29-11-14, 02:04 PM)tweetytek link Wrote: I don't think I will be doing this myself - I have read many posts on this forum relating to this issue. Seems a weak area. I'll just take it to my mechanic when the pipes rot - he can source some from M&P and fit them for £200 ! not worth the agro attempting myself.
Yes but once they snap he wont still be charging you the £200 as there will be an extra 4 hours drilling.
I don't think wd40 for a week is going to be much use, I am going to get some plus gas or I have done a bit of research and found something called Kroil Penetrating Oil and I plan to use this for months.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
No. If he snaps them that's his problematic conundrum. ha..I was sure to check that with him. "don't worry "he said. So I'm waiting till they need doing. I guess it comes down to how good your mechanic is. But I don't pay for poor application... These guys (good ones at least) know what they are doing and have the correct tips tools and techniques. Change your mechanic mate!!
Ta-da!
Three lefts make a right
Quote:Change your mechanic mate!!
Er--- that would be me then!
From the sound of it your mechanic has never had to deal with snapped studs and when yours snap he will have to suck it up and stand the cost himself but the next time someone wants a new down pipes fitting im sure he will be adding a caveat to cover himself for the extra work.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
When I got mine done I discussed risk of them snapping with the mechanics I asked to quote.
First (the people I bought the bike from) simply said didn't want the job "we only want easy service jobs" but would take it on basis of quote of up to 8 hours labour, £576 plus parts.
The other acknowledged the risk and quoted a price range, low to high depending if they snapped and how many.
I asked if he would agree to do the job on a fixed price basis using the mid-point price, I thought that was fair and so did he, can't expect anyone to work for free but equally cant sign a blank check.
In the end all went fine, no snapped studs and came back with copper grease on. I still put gt85 in them every week or so to this day just became a habbit : )
£576??????? FFS perhaps its time to up my hourly rate....and 8 hours??? I can change a engine & have the bike out of the door in 4!
Owner of Motorcycle Republic, Specialist in unfucking things that others have fucked up.
02-12-14, 03:43 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-12-14, 03:46 PM by Buzz.)
I removed the rad and dremelled the rusted nuts off (2 cuts on each in a wedge shape then a cold chisel to tap and turn). Didn't even try soaking or turning them as the middle 4 were rusted solid. Replaced with brass domed nuts with some copper slip, ready for when I could get some Motads.
Fitted the new pipes on Sunday and they sound and look frickin' amazing!
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines...
Quote:I removed the rad and dremelled the rusted nuts off (2 cuts on each in a wedge shape then a cold chisel to tap and turn). Didn't even try soaking or turning them as the middle 4 were rusted solid. Replaced with brass domed nuts with some copper slip, ready for when I could get some Motads.
I think that is the way to go after all we are not going to re use the old nuts are we.
I have ordered a tin of kroil have a google about it as it seems the best stuff but not readily available in this country and what I have brought will last me forever. My plan was although my pipes are good for now by the time i come to remove them I will have had months of applying a penetrating oil, my bike is 16 years old and has the OEM pipes although apart from its first 2 years of life has never been ridden in the wet.
If I was to use a dremel what fitting would i need and is there different types of dremel. I may just buy one on ebay for the job and sell it straight on
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
That is perfect thanks for the link and the original post, I think I would rather spend £50 on all the dremel stuff needed than have to deal with snapped studs
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
I Dremelled 3 of my exhaust nuts of a couple of years ago. The ones that wouldn't respond to repeated plusgas treatments. Off course they were the hardest to get to ones on the centre two clamps. Did it without taking radiator off but ended up cutting through the last downpipe close to clamp to get access to the nut. It's surprising how big a chunk you can slice off the side of the stud and the stainless dome nut still goes on and holds tight!
Use the cutting disks with fibre reinforcement in them, the ones without are about as strong as Pringles and shatter easily
I did mine yesterday 42k's worth of seized nuts came off reasonably easily with heat and very gentle persuasion. I had put penetrating fluid on the previous day just to get something on them, I can't quite see the point of doing it for days as it either goes in or it doesn't. When I was heating the centre ones I did spray them again after the first couple of minutes of heat before re-applying. Once I got the first bit of 'give' in the nut I rocked it back and forth a few times before applying more pressure to undo it.
For the time being I've had to put the old nuts back on as the new ones I ordered aren't domed. Can anyone give me a link to the domed ones please?
Cheers mate...ordered. :thumbup I take it they're deep enough to be tightened to the right torque?
:guitar With what did you heat them - dear Wookee dear Wookee - with what did you heat them- dear Wookee with what :guitar
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
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