Going to change my chain and sprockets tomorrow. Im sure I saw elsewhere on these fine pages about the upped torque setting on the uprated front sprocket nut. Could anyone enlighten me. I know as standard its 70nm. Thanks.
(04-10-14, 12:34 PM)fazersharp link Wrote: I would also add some threadlock ?
For the love of god you don't need to do this! Just use the locking tab washer properly, torque up and it'll be fine. I've had so many difficulties undoing front sprockets because people slather them in threadlock and crank them to within an inch of the threads maximum torque-ability!
04-10-14, 05:51 PM (This post was last modified: 04-10-14, 05:52 PM by fazersharp.)
(04-10-14, 05:42 PM)JoeRock link Wrote: [quote author=fazersharp link=topic=14924.msg168975#msg168975 date=1412422461]
I would also add some threadlock ?
For the love of god you don't need to do this! Just use the locking tab washer properly, torque up and it'll be fine. I've had so many difficulties undoing front sprockets because people slather them in threadlock and crank them to within an inch of the threads maximum torque-ability!
[/quote]
Is threadlock rearly that good then
4. Apply Loctite® 620 to the threads and install the
new lock washer and retaining nut from the Drive
Sprocket Kit. Tighten the drive sprocket retaining
nut to 90Nm (9.0m-kg, 65 ft-lb).
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
(04-10-14, 05:42 PM)JoeRock link Wrote: [quote author=fazersharp link=topic=14924.msg168975#msg168975 date=1412422461]
I would also add some threadlock ?
For the love of god you don't need to do this! Just use the locking tab washer properly, torque up and it'll be fine. I've had so many difficulties undoing front sprockets because people slather them in threadlock and crank them to within an inch of the threads maximum torque-ability!
[/quote]
+1 and +1 again
I have a thread on here for a chain n sprocket change.
Didn't use loctite etc nor would I recommend it for reasons said above.
Depends which one you use, there's threadlock, then there's thread 'foccin hell' lock.
As above, with the tab you shouldn't really need it, but as these bikes have known issues people tend to be safe rather than sorry.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
I use the blue stuff on some parts but I think just about the only use for that 620 stuff is on the sprocket and it isnt cheep either I think its the strongest one you can get.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
If you're using it make sure you use the correct stuff. Once had a bottle of industrial Loctite 'High Strength Retainer' spill in my toolbox.
Glued some spanners to the base and had to get them off with a hammer and chisel!!!!
I've been reading some old threads about this and it says that the shaft on some bikes could be found to be very slightly undersize upon inspection.I wonder if this is why threadlocking compound is specified in the workshop fitting instructions for the upgraded nut in Fazersharps post?.
Well I did it. Front sprocket nut came off pretty easy with a 24" breaker bar. Jammed a 1/4 in socket extension in the old chain to lock the wheel. ..piece of piss. I did use a dab of medium strength loctite in the end and torqued to 80nm which didnt actually feel like a lot. The nut does go on with the flat facing outwards doesn't it ? Im sure it must do as the sprocket would have play in it. Btw my tip for removing the old chain is dont dick about with a chain splitter....put an angle grinder horizontaly along a link....cut the bugger off in about 20 secs !!! Thanks for the advice though guys.
(06-10-14, 08:31 PM)Arbie link Wrote: . The nut does go on with the flat facing outwards doesn't it ? Im sure it must do as the sprocket would have play in it.
Yes it does. This drawing I did in the distant past on a post of this same topic shows it all.
I used a chain breaker in 15 seconds, beats your grinder by 5 then :lol
So each to their own. I've fallen foul of the 'don't bother...' on here, and realised every guru has their preferred way